Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost (original) (raw)
Intro
By just 1 meter (3 feet) Razor made it into the 2600+ meters high elite of the Julian Alps. But even if it didn’t it would still belong there. Razor is one of the most important peaks of Julian Alps. It is high, sharp, beautiful from all sides, mighty, surrounded with high walls. Julius Kugy, famous explorer of the Julian Alps called it The Royal of Julian Alps. Kranjska Gora and its panorama would not be the same without it and Prisojnik. Some say that Triglav (2864m) is most beautiful from Razor. If that is true decide for yourself by taking a look at the photos or even better climb Razor and enjoy immense panorama in spectacular scenery in the heart of Julian Alps.
Razor above Mlinarica valley
Razor (2601m)
Razor floating in the sea of clouds
Razor (2601m) and Prisojnik (2547m), two massive mountains, form a simple two peak group that acts like a bridge between Jalovec and Triglav groups. It stretches from Vrsic pass (1611m), on the west, to Luknja pass (1758m), on the east, and is part of the main crest of Julian Alps. Group rises straight from the valley bottoms that surround it, with huge altitude differences. This is trademark of Julian Alps.
Razor, one of the most beautifully shaped mountains of Julian Alps, dominates above the Trenta valley, on the
south
and Krnica valley, on the
north
. From Prehodavci pass and Kanjavec (2568m) in Triglav group it shows its most beautiful figure of a sharp needle. Razor has no week side but the most striking one is above Krnica valley towards which it falls with huge 1200m high north face. Second, on the strength of appearance scale would be its
western
side above Mlinarica valley (side valley of Trenta) above which is Razor’s 900m high face western face. This is very well observed from the Vrsic road pass, on the Trenta valley side, where Razor dominates high above. On top of Mlinarica valley is Skrbina pass (1989m) which separates Razor from its bulky neighbor Prisojnik (2547m). This is amazing corner, one of those special places in Julian Alps. On the
south
is Sedlo Planja pass (2349m). Planja pass separates Razor from the neighboring Planja (2453m), which stands on the northern end of the wild ridge that over Golicica (2108m) falls steeply into Trenta valley. Once you are here Planja is also worth the visit. Marked and secured path reaches it from Planja pass in 30 minutes. On the way to the summit is famous Utrujeni Stolp or Tired Pillar, a cliff that got ‘tired’ and leaned on Planja, forming a window. The ‘weakest’ side of Razor would be
eastern
, which rises ‘only’ 600 meters above Kriski Podi plateau and is combination of cliffs and long scree slopes.
Otto Sendtner was first person to climb Razor. He did it in 1842. Today there are many climbing routes in both north and western face.
Razor is full of superlatives but anyway accessible to any mountaineer. Climbs are long and demanding. There are 4 different routes to Razor. 2 of them (Vrsic pass route (west approach) and Krnica valley route (north approach)) are for experienced mountaineers because of ferrata sections. The other 2 (from Vrata valley (east approach) and Trenta valley (south approach)) are non-technical but long and demand good shape. No route is shorter than 6 hours! Mountaineers mostly climb Razor on the way from Vrsic pass towards Triglav or vice versa. If Razor is the only goal of one’s trip they will probably choose Vrata or Trenta valley routes. Since it is very tough to go up and down in single day, Razor is a two-day mountain. Summit climb from Planja pass is the same to all routes and includes rock climbing that is not demanding.
Razor from Kredarica
Hike Advice
There is a beautiful combination in which you can climb trio of major Julian Alps peaks: Prisojnik (2547m), Razor (2601m) and Skrlatica (2740m) in one nice circle. Spend the night on Vrsic pass and leave a car there. Start early in the morning and climb Prisojnik via Prednje Okno (Front Window) ferrata. Continue towards east and Razor via Prisojnik's Zadnje Okno (Back Window) ferrata. After climbing Razor continue to nearby Pogacnikov Dom hut. This is full summer day hike. On the next day head towards Skrlatica, leaving everything you don't need at the hut and return. Sleep over another night and tomorrow descent either to Krnica or Trenta valley where you would wait for a bus to take you back on Vrsic pass, where your car is.
Razor from south
Razor photos on other pages
To avoid multiple picture postings here are few nice links to the Razor photos on other pages.
Triglav from Razor
As mentioned in the overview section most common claim is that Triglav (2864m) looks most beautiful from Razor. If the claims are true decide for yourself.
Getting There
The heart of the region is Kranjska Gora resort town, 84 kilometers from the Slovenian capital Ljubljana. Starting point for Mojstrovka is either Vrsic pass (12 kilometers south of Kranjska Gora) or Tamar valley (getting there is described in Hanzova Pot trail)
By Plane
If you want to reach Ljubljana by plane check a timetable on the site of Adria Airways, a national airline.
By Bus
From Ljubljana buses depart towards Kranjska Gora every 60 minutes. During the season, when there is no snow, busses connect Kranjska Gora and Bovec towns over Vrsic pass.
By Train
From Ljubljana trains depart in Kranjska Gora direction quite often but only up to Jesenice town where they turn to Austria through Karavanke Alps. So, in Jasenice you have to change to bus, which comes from Ljubljana anyway. For train time schedules see: Slovenian railways or German railways sites.
By Car
From Ljubljana via the highway towards Karavanke tunnel and via the road it is 84km to Kranjska Gora.
From central Europe approach leads through Villach, Austria: via Karavanke tunnel (around 40km) or Korensko Sedlo pass (around 30km).
From western Europe approach leads through Udine, Italy: exit from Udine – Villach highway in Tarvisio. From Tarvisio to Kranjska Gora is another 20km.
When To Climb
Best period to climb Razor is from end June till the end of October. In that period you only need normal hiking equipment plus maybe a helmet or even rope if it would make you feel safer on ferrata sections. Outside that period is cold with lot of snow. Such undertaking demands complete equipment. In winter one would choose Trenta valley, which is easiest of 4. Even there are no cliffs on Vrata valley route this would still be tough bite in winter. Anyhow these two ‘easy’ routes end with summit climb and that still makes Razor reserved only for experienced mountaineers. Vrsic and Krnica valley routes in winter are only for expert climbers that can climb snowy and icy perpendicular walls. Since the day is too short in winter you would have to sleep over in Pogacnikov Dom hut winter room.
Mountain Conditions
Mountain conditions in Julian Alps are well known thanks to Kredarica (2515m) hut and meteo station, which is just below the Triglav.
Best overview of daily data values is provided by Russian Weather Server -> Kredarica @ Infospace.ru
You can also observe current conditions and forecast for Kredarica on the Wunderground meteo site.
Wunderground - Kredarica page
Current weather and forecasts can also be found on the Slovenian Environment Agency pages.
Direct link to Current Conditions page
Direct link to Snow Depth page
Huts
Pogacnikov Dom na Kriskih Podih (2050m) (Pogacnikov Dom hut on Kriski Podi) is standing on the edge of Kriski Podi basin, high above the Trenta valley and is ‘home’ hut for Razor. Kriski Podi are bare rock basin, which is ascending in few steps. At the foothills of those steps lie 3 beautiful alpine lakes: lower, middle and upper Krisko jezero lakes. Area is surrounded from 3 sides by peak. Highest of them is Razor (2601m). The hut was opened in 1951 and named after a Joze Pogacnik whose idea was to build a hut here. Unfortunately he died on the way from Trenta valley to hut opening ceremony. In 1985, near the hut, load aerial ropeway and winter room were built. The hut is open from July 1st till the end of September. It has 67 beds + 16 in winter room, water and electricity from a generator. View from the hut is beautiful towards Trenta valley and Soca River, which shines on the afternoon sun and the wild peaks around.
Erjavceva Koca na Vrsicu (1525m) (Erjavceva Koca hut on Vrsic) is standing on top of small head, surrounded by larch trees, just by the road, some hundred vertical meters or 1 kilometer in distance bellow the Vrsic pass on the north side. From the hut is beautiful view on the towering Prisojnik (2547m). First hut was built here in 1901. In 1987 it has been decided that old hut is in bad condition and no longer usable, has to be demolished and new one build, at the same spot. New hut was opened in 1991. It has 94 beds, hot water, electricity, phone etc. It is open during whole year.
Ticarjev Dom na Vrsicu (1620m) (Ticarjev Dom hut on Vrsic) is standing on the southern side of Vrsic pass, just by the road. First hut here was opened in 1912 and was named Slovenska Koca (Slovenian Hut). Between 1964 and 1966 a new hut has been built, just by the old one, which was demolished upon finishing the new one. In April of 1975 huge avalanche from Mojstrovka destroyed part of the hut. It has 91 beds, hot water and electricity, phone etc. and is open from May 1st till the end of October.
Postarski Dom na Vrsicu (1688m) (Post hut on Vrsic) is highest placed of 3 Vrsic pass huts and has most beautiful view. Since it is not accessible by car it remained truly mountaineering hut. It has been built in 1952 on a small terrace bellow the Vrsic peak (1737m), after which pass was named. It has 65 beds, electricity, phone, hot water and it’s open from June 1st to September 30th. 15 minutes on foot from Vrsic pass.
Aljazev Dom (1015m) (Aljaz hut) is placed in Vrata valley. It is accessible by car, 12km from Mojstrana village, which lies on the main road from Ljubljana (72km) to Kranjska Gora resort (12km). It was opened in 1896. In 1909. the hut was destroyed by avalanche. New hut was opened the next year where it stands today. It has 150 beds and is open from beginning of May till the end of October. Winter room has 8 beds. From the hut view is beautiful on the peaks around the valley, which rise wildly above it and especially on Triglav and its North face.
Koca v Krnici (1113m) (Hut in krnica) stands on a small meadow in conifer forest on the bottom of Krnica valley. The valley is surrounded by high peaks: Skrlatica (2740m), Razor (2601m) and Prisojnik (2547m). Opening year was 1933. It is open from May 1st till October 31st, while outside that frame during weekends and holidays. It has 20 beds, water and power from a generator.
Camping & Accommodation
Camping inside the National Park is forbidden. But even it weren’t forbidden I can hardly imagine that camping is possible above forest line because of rough rocky terrain, except in winter when everything is covered with snow. Beside the numerous mountain huts around Razor there are plenty of hotels and private apartments in the towns and villages, which surround the area. Here are few links where you can find info on accommodations closer and further away:
Kranjska Gora
Mojstrana
Bled
Bohinj
Red Tape
Razor is in the Triglav National Park but there is no entrance fee. The only thing you might pay is parking on Vrsic pass.