Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost (original) (raw)
Overview
Geographical structure: Eastern Alps > Julian Alps > Martuljek group.
Skrnatarica is mysterious mountain and hard approachable. It is nice mountain and from valleys Sava and Vrata hardly recognized. It is the second mountain in main ridge of Martuljek group. The first mountain is Kukova spica.
From north, Martuljek group looks like a broad, slightly curved crest of wild, rugged peaks. This range starts on NE with Vrtaski vrh, 1898m, continues towards W-SW over Sleme, 2077m and reaches the sharp Kukova spica, 2427m, with which a beautiful half circle of high mountains starts. Skrnatarica, 2448m, Dovski kriz, 2542m, Veliki Oltar, 2621m and from this one in a NW direction Velika Ponca, 2602m, Mala Ponca, 2502m, Spik, 2472m, Frdamane police, 2284m, Rusica, 2074m. In front of this range the wide Siroka pec (2497m) stands, being connected with the main crest just on Dovski Kriz. From the main crest many ridges go towards SE - in the Vrata valley. The Kopice ridge goes from Dovski Kriz, that is why geographically the mountain has a shape of the cross (kriz=cross).
Below the N face of Skrantarica leads a basin Amfiteater or with old name basin under the Siroka pec (2497m). Siroka pec is one of the most hardest approachable mountain in Slovenia. It has very famous N face which is by climbers very respected! The basin Amfiteater is hardly approachable. The easiest way is at the end of basin on the NE where you must climb 30 metres of UIAA III+.
But now back to the Skrnatarica. From the summit of Skrnatarica leads in SE ridge to the valley Vrata. On the upper part is called Pescenk and before is ridge changed to the steep slopes which are declined to the valley Vrata has a mountain called Ticarica (2072m).
Skrnatarica is not a mountain for everybody. You must be experienced and have some adventurous spirit for searching the easiest passages.
On Skrantarica leads more accessions. But no one is easy! The "normal accession goes almost to the pass Gulce and then turn left to the very well seen ravine in the E side of mountain.
Getting There
To Jesenice you can get either from Ljubljana or from Austria through Karavanke tunnel. You can also reach the upper Sava valley from Austria (Villach) over Koren Pass or from Italy (Tarvisio).
When you come to village Mojstrana you go in way to the valley Vrata. You drive to the meadow Poldov rovt (940m) from village Mojstrana 9 kilometers or 2 hours by walk.
Routes Overview
Some kind of overview map.
Normal route over the Gulce pass. The south approach from the Vrata valley. Steep ravine and climbing UIAA III/II. Description.
E face and ridge - From Gulce pass. You reach the Gulce pass and the over the east face to the summit. UIAA III. Description.
Dovski kriz - Skrnatarica ridge Climbing route UIAA II. Description.
South ridge and slopes directly from Vrata valley. Hard orientation and climbing UIAA III below the summit. Description.
Red Tape
Skrnatarica is in Triglavski Narodni park.
When To Climb
The best time for climb on the mountain is when is in the ravine in E face snow because the ravine is easy transitional. This is in June or July for sure. In August and September you must climb some small walls (UIAA II) in ravine.
If you go up after the S ridge over the Pescenk it is not well if you go in hot days. The same conditions are in valley to the Gulce pass.
Camping
There is no hute on mountain. You have a hute Aljazev dom which is from Poldov rovt (meadow) faraway 2 or 3 kilometers by macadam road.
You can camping in Martuljek and Kranjska Gora.