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The bastard balm has charming flowers and an almost orchid-like grace, say Carol Klein

The common name for Melittis melissophyllum is bastard balm. What, you might think, is a plant of such lowly birth doing on the back page of The Daily Telegraph? But, like many an illegitimate, there is more than a touch of aristocracy about this individual.

While it is considered an impostor by some grand gardeners, I positively welcome it. There are a few horticulturists who are snobbish about it, but perhaps they have only come across it in mainland Europe, where it is fairly common. In Britain it is a rare native that frequents a few isolated sites, including several in south Devon. It loves hedgerows and woodland edges and the steep Devonshire banks suit it vey well.

M. melissophyllum can be found over a wide area of Europe, as far east as Turkey. It is a plant of many guises. Sometimes its flowers are entirely pink; at other times, white. It is a handsome plant and, if well-cultivated, makes a strong clump with upright stems clothed in slightly puckered dark-green leaves with a bit of polish about them. The foliage is aromatic - not in a strong, minty way, but with a sweet, light woodland aroma similar to that of woodruff.

The typical hooded labiate flowers are borne in whorls around the stem so, from whichever angle the plant is seen, some of them look the viewer right in the eye. The lower lip of the flower protrudes, and the broad, central, pink stripe gives the impression of a tongue being poked out rudely as though it could not care less what anybody thinks about its status. When I have included it on a Chelsea display, I always hope the judges won't take it personally. The flowers are charming and have an almost orchid-like grace.

M. melissophyllum grows to about 45cm (18in), but can get bigger. It is one of those wonderful plants that mature year on year, gaining in stature and presence. There are several established specimens in the garden here at Glebe Cottage, and each one looks more like a small shrub.

Accommodating at all times, yet with a slight air of disdain, M. melissophyllum fits into a modern, naturalistic idiom, while still retaining the slightly aloof quality that sets it apart from the crowd. A joy.

Melittis melissophyllum will grow happily on a bank or hedgerow, and is ideal among foxgloves and ferns, or alongside a fence or wall where both light levels and water supply are uneven.

Team it with woodland grasses; melicas are ideal, as is Deschampsia flexuosa, with its silken, rosy inflorescence. Any of the shade-loving umbels are good too: from cow parsley in a really wild scheme, to sweet cicely in a more refined arrangement. M. melissophyllum's elevated stems can be surrounded by lily of the valley, or the pink, self-seeding purslane. The drooping lockets of Dicentra formosa and its ferny foliage are in marked contrast to the upright habit and protruding flowers of M. melissophyllum.

Grow Melittis melissophyllum in dappled shade. Even in a small garden with only one or two trees and a few shrubs, its presence helps to create a woodland atmosphere. Although it is a tolerant plant it appreciates ample moisture and deep, humus-rich soil. Improve the soil by carefully incorporating home-made compost or leaf mould. Water well until established, and mulch with composted bark.

Although it self-seeds in the wild, M. melissophyllum has never been as obliging in a garden setting. Occasionally it sets seed, which can be collected carefully and sown fresh on the surface of good peat-free seed compost. Like most labiates the seed is large and usually produced four at a time.

An even more satisfactory way of increasing stock is to take basal cuttings in the spring before growth has become too long - once the stems become hollow, cuttings will not root. Short shoots no longer than 7.5cm (3in) make the best material. Sever them with a sharp knife as close to the base as possible, and dibble them around the edge of a clay pot. Rooting hormone is not necessary. Top with grit to provide drainage around the neck of the cutting, and to help retain moisture underneath the surface. A heated propagator will speed root development but is not essential. Cuttings will root perfectly well outside. Spray occasionally with rainwater to stop excess transpiration. When cuttings are rooted, pot on individually and plant out when roots start to appear through the bottom of the pot.

Beeches Nursery, Village Centre, Ashdon, Saffron Walden, Essex CB10 2HB (01799 584362; www.beechesnursery.co.uk). No mail order until autumn - send six 2nd-class stamps for a catalogue. Open Monday to Saturday, 8.30am to 5.30pm (Sunday and bank holidays, 9.30am to 4.30pm).

Hardy's Cottage Garden Plants, Priory Lane, Freefolk Priors, Whitchurch, Hampshire RG28 7NJ (01256 896533; www.hardys-plants.co.uk). Mail order available - send eight 1st-class stamps for a catalogue. Open daily, 10am to 5pm.

Long Acre Plants, Charlton Musgrove, Somerset BA9 8EX (01963 32802; www.longacreplants.co.uk). Mail order available - send three 1st-class stamps for a catalogue. Open Thursday to Saturday, 10am to 5pm, but phone ahead.

Pioneer Nurseries, Baldock Lane, Willian, Letchworth, Herts SG6 2AE (01462 675858; www.pioneerplants.com). Mail order available from September - call or email for a catalogue. Open Tuesday to Saturday, 9am to 5pm (Sunday 10pm to 4pm). Melittis melissophyllumShady customer: M. melissophylum grows in stature and presence year on yearPictures: jonathan buckley; mark bolton