Great British Bites: laverbread (original) (raw)

What is it and where is it from?

Laverbread is a cooked puree of Porphyra umbilicalis, a seaweed common on the shores of western Britain. In this form, its use as food is now closely associated with South Wales (nori, as used in Japan, is a related species).

What is its heritage?

The habit of using laverbread as food is probably very ancient, but it was first mentioned in Camden’s Britannica in the early 17th century. About 200 years later it was being packed in china pots on the coasts of north Devon and Somerset, and gathered by poor families on the coasts of Glamorgan and Pembrokeshire.

Seaweed gathering is also recorded on the west coast of Scotland, and in Ireland but, by the 20th century, laverbread was considered a food of South Wales, especially Glamorgan. It was processed locally by small family companies, at least one of which has been producing it commercially for more than 50 years.

The seaweed is gathered by hand from rocks at low tide by local fishermen, washed thoroughly, soaked and then boiled for several hours until soft. For local sale it is sold fresh.

Supermarket demand has led to some laverbread being frozen to provide a year-round supply, although Ashley Jones at Selwyn’s Seafoods says this affects the texture adversely. Tinned laverbread is available for Welsh exiles around the world, and clear film pouches are being trialled as an alternative to tinning and freezing.

What does it look and taste like?

Laverbread is a dark-coloured, almost black, pur?e, sold in pots or enfolded in clear film. It is soft-textured, sticky, tastes of the sea and has a high mineral content.

How is it used?

Combine laverbread with the cooking juices from roast lamb or mutton, some butter, pepper and the juice of a Seville orange or a lemon to make a sauce for the meat; or mix two-thirds laverbread to one-third oatmeal, form into cakes and fry as an accompaniment to bacon and eggs

Where can I buy it?

From local markets in the coastal towns of south Wales, especially Swansea; from www.selwynsseafood.co.uk (01792 850033); Gower Coast Seafoods (01792 850796); or see list on www.laverbread.org.uk.

Slow Food is an international eco-gastronomic movement which promotes the enjoyment and protection of locally grown produce. For more information on how to join your regional convivium and forthcoming events: www.slowfood.org.uk

© Laura Mason