How To Style Thin Hair According To A Celebrity Hairstylist (original) (raw)

With bonded extensions getting more natural-looking than ever, it’s easy to feel like you’re in the minority when you have fine, thinning hair. I’m one of those people who tend to get bogged down when I see flowing, luscious locks with undeniable density – especially given the fact that my own hair can barely form a single, scant plait. Plus, with the popularity of the slick-back showing no signs of slowing down either, I’ve been on a mission to expertly style my thin hair and tame it into voluminous submission.

_Vogue_’s top products for styling thin hair

Kevin Murphy DOO.OVER dry powder finishing hairspray

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Oribe Dry Texturising Spray

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Living Proof Full Dry Volume & Texture Spray

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“It’s all about tension, direction, and restraint,” says Luke Hersheson, hairstylist and CEO of the eponymous salons in London. “You don’t need loads of product, you need technique.” He explains, “Blow-dry the hair against its natural fall, especially at the root. Flip the head upside down if you must, but the real trick is lifting sections vertically and directing heat into the root, then letting it cool in that lifted position.”

Most importantly? “Stop obsessing over perfection – slight mess results in movement, which equals volume,” the expert adds. This particular tip is something I needed to hear, as I’m partial to over-straightening the back of my head for fear of unruly kinks. In reality, we all need to embrace our inner ’90s Kate Moss.

“Density is a visual game,” Hersheson reveals. “Keep the ends blunt, not wispy, avoid over-layering (this is where people go wrong) and use a thickening spray at the roots, not through the lengths. Zhoosh foam works really well here on dry hair.” For the ultimate finishing touches, the hairstylist simply says to “rough it up a bit, clean, silky hair often looks flatter. Also, a subtle root shadow colour can make hair appear denser instantly.”

As for the biggest styling mistakes that tend to make thin hair look flatter, Hersheson says that “using heavy oils or creams causes instant collapse.” Additional thin hair faux pas include over-conditioning the roots, over-straightening, length with no shape, and trying to make your hair look sleek instead of textured. “Thin hair doesn’t want to behave – it wants to be encouraged. Think lightweight scaffolding, not glue,” says the hairstylist.

When in doubt, go for a fresh haircut. Believe me, I understand how counterintuitive that feels when all you want is fuller lengths. Hersheson concurs, adding that “a good haircut does 80 per cent of the work. You want strong shape, clean edges and strategic internal texture – not visible layers everywhere. A precise cut means you can do less styling and still get fullness.”
Without further ado, keep scrolling for a curated selection of the ultimate styling products and tools, plus expert tips on how to style thin hair.

• Styling products
• Styling tools and devices
• What are the best everyday hairstyles for thin hair that add body and movement?
• Are heated tools helpful or harmful when styling thin hair?
• Are layers always beneficial for fine hair, or can they sometimes reduce volume?
• What fringe or bang styles work best for thin hair types?
• Meet the expert

Kevin Murphy DOO.OVER Dry Powder Finishing Hairspray

Kevin Murphy

DOO.OVER dry powder finishing hairspray

• Why it's _Vogue_-approved: The first thing you'll notice about the Kevin Murphy DOO.OVER dry powder finishing hairspray is the lovely scent. But the room-filling aroma is just one of many reasons that this product is a staple in the kit of pro hairdressers, including Mark Townsend, long-time stylist of the Olsen sisters and Dakota Johnson. He explains, “Hair sprays are very wet, and if you put them on bangs, it can stick the hairs together. So we use the DOO.OVER because it's a dry powder, so that's the only thing we ever spray. Then I often spray it on top very quickly if she's got any flyaways. I don't like the look of hairspray. I don't like hair that looks like you can't run your hands through it, so that powder-based spray is incredible”. The multitasking product boasts incredible hold, revitalises the strands, reduces flyaways and gives texture.

Oribe Dry Texturising Spray

Oribe

Dry Texturising Spray

• Why it’s _Vogue_-approved: Though on the more expensive side, Oribe’s dry texturing spray is an industry favourite for a reason. It’s perfect for transforming otherwise perfectly prim locks into the kind of windswept ‘do that’d be the envy of all your favourite ’70s rockstars. It also doubles up as a dry shampoo thanks to the fact that the spray is infused with zeolite crystallines to absorb oil at the roots without any pesky white residue, ensuring your hairstyle goes the distance.

Living Proof Full Dry Volume & Texture Spray

Living Proof

Full Dry Volume & Texture Spray

• Why it’s _Vogue_-approved: Lightweight yet powerful, Living Proof’s Dry Volume & Texture spray is a cult-favourite for a reason, formulated to dispense ultra-fine texturising molecules throughout the hair. It adds body and hold to any look – whether you’re blow-drying your locks after a gym session, or styling with intention before an event. It has a near-invisible finish, which makes application a breeze and provides heat protection up to 210°C.

Hershesons

Zhoosh Foam

• Why it’s _Vogue_-approved: Foams and mousses are famously divisive in the haircare community – but not this formulation from Hershensons. Free from any unpleasant sticky residue, the Zhoosh foam is formulated to add instant lift and body to any look. It’s made to help create natural, flexible b movement throughout the hair and adds soft hold without a stiff finish. It also serves as a dry shampoo alternative and can be applied to day-three hair to absorb excess oil on the scalp.

Amika Superfruit Star Lightweight Hair Oil

Amika

Superfruit Star Lightweight Hair Oil

• Why it's _Vogue_-approved: With all the dry-texturing sprays typically recommended for thin hair, it’s important not to neglect nourishing those ends. However, don’t make the mistake in selecting an oil that will weigh down your ends and flatten your overall look. The Superfruit Star serum by Amika is the ultimate solution – so lightweight it almost feels dry to the touch, it instantly brings shine and bounce back to parched strands.

25 Short Hairstyles For Thin Hair That Give Instant Volume & BodyGallery25 PhotosBy Hannah Coates and Audrey Noble

Ghd Speed

ghd

Speed

• Why it’s _Vogue_-approved: The Ghd Speed is the fastest hair dryer to be unveiled by the innovative hair tools brand. It was created to cut down your styling time compared to its predecessors, the Helios and Air, while locking in shine. For my long, extensions-infused hair, it took just five minutes to transform my locks from wet to dry enough to style. The Ghd Speed uses an interesting dual-airflow technology to protect the strands. Instead of turning up the heat, it is encircled in cool air to minimise thermal damage, enhance shine and means you can get closer to the scalp without feeling too hot. There are five attachments in total, but only one is included (the concentrator). The others extend to a diffuser, a comb for teasing coily locks and two widths of smoothing or styling concentrators. It comes in a chic silver, white and black colourway as well as a timeless titanium black.
• Sound level: Low

CurrentBody LED Hair Growth Helmet

CurrentBody

CurrentBody LED Hair Growth Helmet

• Why it’s _Vogue_-approved:

If hair growth is a concern for you, then this is the LED mask you should try. Clinically proven to increase hair growth rate by a huge 128 per cent in 12 weeks, it may look a little out-of-this-world, but the results it delivers more than make up for it. Emitting a spectrum of red light (from 620-660nm), it supercharges energy in the hair follicles, reduces inflammation (which is responsible for so many of our hair and scalp issues) and boosts scalp blood flow, thereby promoting hair growth.

It works especially well when paired with hair growth treatments – make sure you use it for 10 minutes a day for optimal results. “Hair thinning is something that has affected me since having children, and as anyone who has experienced it will tell you, it can be really demoralising. I love that this is simple to use but has such efficacious clinical trials behind it. I wear mine while watching a box set in the evening and barely notice it is on.” – Vogue contributing editor, Georgia Day

Key specs:

• Light Modes: Red (between 620 and 660nm)
• Mask Type: Helmet
• Treatment Time: 10 minutes
• Wireless: Yes

Drybar The Half Shot Round Blow Dryer Brush

Drybar

The Half Shot Round Blow Dryer Brush

• Why it’s _Vogue_-approved: A newer addition to the Drybar hot brush collection, this fantastic “Half Shot” tool is smaller than most, hence the name. It’s designed to combine the power of a blow dryer with the manoeuvrable size of a small, rounded brush in order to ensure you can create texture and body from the root – making it perfect for thinner hair that requires heat styling for volume.

What are the best everyday hairstyles for thin hair that add body and movement?

According to Luke Hersheson, the best everyday hairstyles will “build shape, not collapse it” as “anything too set or structured will expose thinness,” so with this in mind, consider the following:

• A soft, undone bob (chin to collarbone length)
• A loose, low bun with texture (not tight, ever)
• A slightly bent, imperfect wave - not curls, just movement
• A half-up style with looseness at the crown

Are layers always beneficial for fine hair, or can they sometimes reduce volume?

“No, and honestly, they’re often the problem,” heeds the hairstylist. “Too many layers remove weight, which is exactly what thin hair needs to look thicker. You want invisible layering, not obvious choppy bits,” he explains. “If your ends look see-through, you’ve gone too far.”

What fringe or bang styles work best for thin hair types?

Oft considered controversial, Luke Hersheson says that, when it comes to thin hair, “fringes are brilliant - but only if they’re cut right.” He goes on to explain that the best options include: “a soft, curtain fringe (longer, blended, forgiving) or a slightly fuller, blunt fringe if you’ve got enough density at the front." He warns against “super wispy, stringy bangs or over-texturised fringes. A fringe should frame and thicken the front, not expose gaps.”

• Luke Hersheson is a hairstylist and CEO of the eponymous Hershesons salons in London.