Sam's Laser FAQ - HeNe Laser Power Supplies (original) (raw)

Back to HeNe Laser Power Supplies Sub-Table of Contents.

Using Commercially Available Power Supplies

Powering Your HeNe Tube the Easy Way

Most commercial HeNe laser power supplies designed for incorporation into OEM (Original Equipment Manufactured) equipment (as opposed to lab type adjustable supplies) are affectionately called 'bricks' because they are solid black rectangular blocks (dimensions vary) potted in Epoxy (or some equally impenetrable resin) with wires sticking out. They are generally high frequency inverter types operating either on 115 or 230 VAC, or low voltage DC (typically 6 to 30 VDC). Their output is constant current-regulated over a wide voltage compliance range. The current may fixed, adjustable via a trim-pot, or very rarely, but an external resistor. If adjustable, the range may be up to 2:1 or more. The voltage compliance range over which the current regulation is assured is typically at least +/-10 percent of voltage specifications, but is often larger. Internal power dissipation is often what limits the actual capabilities of these power supplies.

Melles Griot HeNe Laser Head and Laser Drive Power Supply Brick shows a small Melles Griot laser head with a compatible Laser Drive power supply. This brick is likely similar to the Melles Griot model 05-LPM-379 with an output voltage compliance range of 1,150 VDC to 1,700 VDC. It has a trim pot to set the current between about 4 and 6.5 mA providing compatibility with almost any 1 to 2 mW HeNe laser head or (with an external 75 K ohm ballast resistor) HeNe tube.

Power supply bricks are compact, highly efficient (well, in a relative sort of way as these things go!), and are generally very robust and reliable when used as intended. The specifications usually claim to include protection for *momentary* open and short circuit faults, (as well as repeated arcs to ground, and low input voltage). Thus, they shouldn't self destruct as a result of most reasonable screwups in wiring. (Of course, if you accidentally attempt to power a 12 VDC unit from 230 VAC, the smoke *will* come out!). However, bricks may fail if a laser head is not attached (or a hard-to-start tube fails to start) after a few minutes or hours. Continuously attempting to start without success is stressful for any HeNe laser power supply so don't push your luck! And despite the supposed fault protection, many seem to be not particularly immune even to high resistance shorts as myself and others have found out the hard (expensive) way. DC input types may not survive reverse polarity either. And, of course, being fully potted, only in very rare cases are they useful for something other than construction bricks or sailboat ballast following any internal failure.

The simplest approach to powering HeNe tubes is often to purchase this type of power supply, either new or (more likely) surplus. With a little bit of searching, they are readily available at attractive prices. Manufacturers include Laser Drive (now part of Martek Power), Power Technology, and Melles Griot. Aerotech used to make these as well but has since gotten out of the HeNe laser business (but you may still find their HeNe tubes and power supplies from surplus sources).

Cost may be anywhere from 10to10 to 10to200 or more depending on power capability, whether it is new or surplus, and other factors. Typical surplus prices are 10to10 to 10to35 for a unit capable of powering a .5 to 2 mW HeNe tube and 25to25 to 25to100 for one suitable for a HeNe tube up to about 5 mW. Such power supplies (and HeNe tubes to go with them) may even be offered by private individuals on eBay and elsewhere, possibly at even lower prices. Of course, the usage history, quality, and reliability (of both the equipment as well as the seller) from such sources may be unknown.

The basic power supply specs will include the HeNe tube current and voltage compliance range. The total voltage across your tube and ballast resistor at the operating tube current must fall within this range. Since many of these bricks are set for a fixed current and may not have any user accessible adjustments (that is, without using a jack-hammer), the power supply and HeNe tube current specs must be fairly closely matched. Look for types with an adjustable current setting if possible. (Even if the specs or sticker on the unit show a fixed current, there may actually be an adjustment that is either obvious or protected by a removable plug since it is quite likely that the manufacturer fabricates and pots one type module that can be tweaked for a range of currents to reduce the need for separate inventory. However, without confirmation from the manufacturer, there is no way to know for sure whether adjusting it far from the specified current is acceptable and doesn't result in excessive stress on the supply's circuitry.) Some may be jumpered for 2 or more fixed current settings.

In addition to power input and high voltage output connections, these supplies may also have one or more of the following: logic level enable (may need to be grounded or tied to a DC voltage), logic level output for indicator or something else, auxiliary DC power output(s), CDRH turn-on delay loop (cut to disable delay), HeNe tube cathode to ground return loop (cut to add current meter or beam-on indicator LED). In many cases, there will be a wiring diagram on the brick. If none is present, although there is no total standardization, some color coding conventions are usually followed. See the section:Common Color Coding of Power Supply Bricks.

Power supplies may also be packaged along with a small HeNe tube, ballast resistor(s), and wiring as a complete laser optics assembly. These have become available at very attractive prices as products like UPC scanners and laser disc players have switched to over to the use of laser diodes. Since nearly everything but a wall plug is likely included in such a package, and hopefully the HeNe tube is matched to the power supply (with respect to current and voltage compliance), this approach should result in a working laser with minimal effort.

There are also many HeNe laser power supplies available that are not potted but simply conformal (dip) coated or are just unprotected components on a printed wiring board. (The potting or coating is desired to prevent high voltage arcing or corona discharges.) These often spent their former life in hand-held barcode or supermarket checkout scanners. I like the naked ones because it is possible to reverse engineer them (I will pay shipping for any of these (dead or alive) you might have so I can add their schematics to the Laser FAQ!). However, their quality and reliability is often a total unknown.

At the other end of the scale, lab quality HeNe laser power supplies in fancy enclosures with or without front panel adjustable current controls are nice to own because they can be adapted to a variety of HeNe tubes. However, this definitely comes at a significant cost premium (unless you find a really good deal) and are thus not usually a realistic option. They are unnecessary in any case unless you expect to be playing with a variety of HeNe lasers and need this compatibility. In fact, less expensive name-brand bricks may be more robust!

However, most of the common 'lab' style HeNe laser power supplies are actually just a standard power supply brick in a box with AC power cord, fuse, line filter, on/off/key switch, power-on light, Alden connector to attach the HeNe laser head, and an interlock connector and/or line voltage select switch on some models. These units are, of course, somewhat more expensive than the bare bricks and are also much less likely to show up on the surplus market.

See the chapter: Laser and Parts Sources for possible commercial and non-commercial suppliers of HeNe laser tubes, heads, and power supplies as well as things to watch out for when purchasing items like this from private individuals or commercial suppliers other than major laser companies. Manufacturers of new HeNe laser power supply bricks include Laser Drive and Melles Griot; surplus sources include Meredith Instruments, Midwest Laser Products, and MWK Laser Products. There are many others.

HeNe Laser Power Supplies and Radio Frequency Interference (RFI)

While a linear HeNe laser power supply driving a healthy compatible laser tube should generate little or no RFI, it's truly amazing how much can originate from a brick due to the switching frequency and its harmonics. The biggest source is probably the inverter transformer, which if unshielded can actually light up a neon indicator (e.g., NE2) placed on top of the brick. Where RFI must be minimized, HeNe PSU bricks are often wrapped in copper foil or mounted in shielded compartments. For example, when HeNe lasers were used in hand-held barcode scanners, the bricks were usually foil covered due to their proximity to sensitive electronics. Newer Hewlet Packard and Agilent metrology lasers place an aluminum plate between the brick and the laser tube. Some Zygo metrology lasers mount the PSU on an aluminum plate and also add bypass capacitors on the input leads to suppress transmitted RFI from interfering with the controller.

RFI can also originate from laser tube incompatibility, a tube that is high mileage and/or near end-of-life, or incorrect ballast resistor(s) resulting in plasma oscillations or other instabilities.

Compatibility Checklist for HeNe Laser Power Supply Bricks

Assuming you know the power requirements of your HeNe tube or laser head, use the following guidelines when selecting a brick type power supply:

  1. The input voltage and current should be something available. :)
    • AC-input power supplies will need to be configured properly. Where the voltage doesn't quite match your electrical supply as with power supplies rated for 100 VAC instead of 115 VAC, there are two options: (1) hope it survives on the slightly incorrect voltage or (2) add a buck/boost transformer to adjust the line voltage. For the example above, this can be a small 12 or 15 VRMS transformer with its input connected across the line and its output connected in series with the power supply input - with the proper polarity! For line voltages that are near their nominal voltage, there is probably no problem as the supply will have been designed to handle a +/-5 or +/-10 percent input voltage variation, so an added few percent will be tolerated. But where, for example, your line voltage is running very high like 135 VAC, connecting a 100 VAC brick directly may be risky.
    • DC-input power supplies usually have an acceptable range of voltages. For example, a supply rated 12 VDC will usually - but not always - operate correctly on 10 to 14 VDC. Too high or too low and it may be destroyed. A regulated DC power supply of the correct voltage and adequate current is best, but where that input range is fairly wide, an unregulated supply can be used.
  2. The operating current should be within the current range of the power supply. If the supply has a fixed current setting, as long as this is within about 10 percent, it will probably be acceptable. I would prefer the error to be on the low side if there is a choice to maximize tube life Laser power output may be slightly lower than its rating but probably not by anything significant. However, some laser tubes or heads won't stay lit at a current much lower than the optimum and a flickering laser is worse than no laser as that can damage both the laser tube and power supply.
  3. Where the current is adjustable, the voltage compliance range spec for the power supply (printed on the label or elsewhere) often applies even at max current. However, this is not always the case. So a supply with a label value of 5.0 mA may have a reduced maximum voltage if set to 6.5 mA even if the trimpot has enough current range. The current will then top out at some lower value like 5.7 mA, but is not being regulated beyond that point. The opposite could happen if reducing current (though this may be less likely).
  4. The operating voltage should be within the voltage range of the power supply. The operating voltage is either specified explicitly for a laser head or calculated from the HeNe tube voltage + ballast resistor voltage drop (Io * Rb). Where only a single voltage is listed for a power supply, assume it is the upper limit; the supply will probably operate reliably between this value and 25 to 30 percent less (somewhat dependent on the current as well). So, a supply listed as 2,450 VDC would be happy if your laser head only required 1,800 VDC but don't go much lower unless you have the actual specs and they indicate it is permitted. Some have a much wider range, but finding out the hard way that your model doesn't isn't fun. Your HeNe tube could end up with more current than it wants but more likely, the power supply would become as dead as a - brick. :(
  5. The electrical output power (operating voltage times operating current) into the laser head or ballast+laser tube should not exceed the rating of the supply. This in fact may be the most relevant parameter for commercial HeNe laser power supplies. In some cases, for a given operating current, calculating the operating voltage based on the maximum output power rating of the supply may be acceptable even if the resulting operating voltage exceeds the value shown on the label or listed elsewhere. However, input and output regulation will be worse near the ends of this range. But for many applications, this may not matter.
    For example, one particular sample listed 3.2 to 3.8 mA (adjustable with a trimpot), 900 to 1,600 V, 7 W max. While one might think that the 1,600 V is a maximum safe (for the supply) voltage to use, if the operating voltage is computed from the maximum power (7 W) and operating current (say 3.5 mA), then it is actually a much higher 2,000 V and this is acceptable, subject to the comment about regulation, above.
    However, unless the listing on the label explicitly says something like "XX W max", it may simply be the power at the listed current and voltage. Or, it may even be the input power! In short, your mileage may vary in interpreting these specifications.
    And, the power supply companies will generally protect themselves with a statement something like: "The power supply should not be run under conditions outside of any listed on the label as this may impact regulation, stability, and life."
  6. Generally, the starting voltage provided by a brick supply will be adequate as long as the operating voltage is within its compliance range. However, some hard-to-start HeNe tubes may benefit from running near the lower-end of a larger power supply (with its higher starting voltage) as opposed to near the upper-end of a smaller one.

Selecting a lower rated power supply as long as it meets the requirements, above, will also likely be cheaper and a larger power supply won't get you even one additional photon of laser output!

Of course other things like control inputs, CDRH delay, output connector type, and size and weight, must also be compatible.

For high power (e.g., 25 mW and up) external cavity lab style HeNe lasers, options are somewhat limited. Very few companies still manufacture such lasers and they may actually use (possibly custom) models from the laser power supply companies (see the next section) so it's worth checking those when searching for a replacement.

Having said all that, based on analysis of a variety of HeNe laser power supply bricks, it is becoming more and more obvious that while there may be dozens of different models, there may only be a very small number of truly different designs or even designs with different part values. So, while a supply may have a maximum voltage listed on the label of, say, 1,600 V, it may indeed be perfectly happy operating at 2,500 V as long as the power dissipation specification isn't exceeded, if that. So, in the end, your mileage may vary, but if a supply runs stably with your laser head, it may be fine regardless of what the label says! ;-)

Melles Griot HeNe Laser Power Supplies

Here are some of the common Melles Griot HeNe power supplies in recent, if not current, production. Note that the power supply modules ("bricks") are actually probably manufactured by Laser Drive, Inc. They are all listed in terms of the output voltage compliance range. Differences may still be present in terms of input voltage(s), output current, wire termination, and physical size. Where part of a complete system, the 05 may be replaced with 25.

The voltage range for some of these entries may be smaller than actually provided by some of these power supplies, possibly to account for variation in supplier specifications. For example, the voltage range of the 05-LPM-379 which is listed here as 1,400 to 1,600 V, may be shown on the actual brick as 1,150 to 1,700 V. Since most Melles Griot power supplies have complete specifications printed on a label, the information below would really only need to be used as a selection guide, or where a model number (without specs) is all that's available (as in an eBay auction).

Should only a single voltage be listed on the unit, the compatible range *probably* extends somewhat above and below this value but there is no way to be sure and it is probably not a good idea to push your luck too much on the high side at least. Laser Drive generally spec's it to be +/-10 percent.

Many of the bricks have a trimpot for adjusting the current over a relatively wide range even if only a single value for current (e.g., 6.5 mA) is printed on the label. For example, an 05-LPM-379 (or 05-LPL-379) which may be used with the 05-LHR-901 laser head (nominal current of 4.5 mA), typically has an adjustment range of around 3 to 6 mA or more. However, some bricks have no trimpot even in lab-style supplies. Unless an adjustment range is shown on the label, the only way to know for sure is to locate the trimpot (or a calibration seal covering it), usually near the input wires. A very few (well I only know of exactly one - the 05-LPM-949!) have two trimposts with the second one being to set the startup (CDRH) delay. (This may have been a special OEM model used as a lamp igniter in a video projector. What a waste!!)

AC line powered models:

All models start with 05-LPM for the brick or 05-LPL for those where a "lab-style" unit is currently available (as of 2007, indicated with a "*"). These have a brick mounted in a plastic box with power switch, light, and fuse. Where part of a complete system, the 05 may be replaced with 25. Higher voltage models are almost all 115/230 VAC compatible. But some of the lower voltage units run on 115 AC only. (They saved the cost of a wire.) The voltage tolerance is usually +/-10%. There are some models that are spec'd for 100/200 VAC +/-10%. Whether these would work reliably (without burning up) at higher line voltage (which may be as much as 125/250 VAC, well outside the 10% tolerance) is questionable.

Low voltage DC powered models:

These are Melles Griot power supplies with DC input. Most are 12 VDC input but a few are designed for 6, 8, 15, 24 VDC.

Laser Drive HeNe Laser Power Supplies

The following information was provided courtesy of Laser Drive (now part ofEaton) and should be similar to what's on their Laser Power Supplies Page. It applies to most of their standard HeNe laser power supplies. For custom requirements, contact whoever Laser Drive is this month directly. :) For each supply series, these show the available minimum and maximum input voltage, the minimum and maximum output voltage and current, as well as the *approximate* HeNe laser output power for compatible laser tubes/heads. However, any single model will generally NOT cover the entire range. More below.

DC Input (10 to 32 VDC depending on specific model):

AC Input (90 to 260 VAC depending on specific model):

Notes:

  1. Input voltage and current: This option determines the allowable input voltage (AC or DC as appropriate). There may be some overlap. Where there is only a single listed current, it is the worst case for the lowest voltage option at maximum rated output.
  2. Output voltage and current: Each series power supply may come in several "Ranges", which determine the output capabilities of the specific model supply. For example, with the 101T, Range 2 specifies 1,500 to 1,800 VDC AND 4.5 to 5.5 mA. Note that where only a single set of values is printed on the label (e.g., 1,600 V, 5.0 mA for the 101T), this uniquely determines that it is a Range 2 supply. If a adjustment pot is present (possibly covered by a calibration sticker), the allowable min and max current is determined by the Range of the supply - 4.5 to 5.5 mA for the 101T.
  3. Adjustment and compliance limits: Any given power supply**may** operate outside of these specifications (current and/or voltage), but could fail without warning due to overstress of internal components. And this of course voids the warranty!
  4. Starting voltage: These are approximate and will also depend on the specific model and input voltage.

Hughes HeNe Laser Power Supplies

There were both AC and DC input types. The following are all lab-style power supplies consisting of an AC-input switchmode brick mounted in an oversize plastic case at a greatly inflated price (unless we're talking eBay!).

Model (ACV) Output 115/230 100 Iop Vop Laser head compatibility

4000 4050 4.5 mA 1,650 V 3203H and other LC series laser heads 4010 4060 7.0 mA 1,650 V HP 3176H, 3194H, 3223H 4020 4070 6.5 mA 1,730-2,450 V LF 3221H, 3222H, 3224H, 3225H 4030 4080 9.3 mA 3,300 V LF 3235H 4040 4090 7.0 mA 2,700 V 3227H

And the newer ones in the small black cases (similar to modern Melles Griot HeNe laser power supplies):

Model (ACV) Output 115/230 Iop Vop Laser head compatibility

5000/5000F 4.5 mA 1,550-1,750 V 3209H, 3202H, 3203H 5010/5010F 7.0 mA 1,550-1,750 V ????? 5020/5020F 6.5 mA 1,650-2,450 V 3220H, 3221H, 3222N, 3223H, 3224H, 3225H 5040/5040F 7.0 mA 2,600-2,800 V 3227H, 3230H

All of these will also run the corresponding polarized "-PC" laser heads.

Really old Hughes lab power supplies are in a more-or-less cubical metal box and use a high voltage transformer with a potted high voltage module housing the rectifier/doubler/filter and linear regulator.

Model (ACV) Output 115/230 Iop Regulator Vop Laser head compatibility

3598H     6.5 mA (Fixed)   ????? V   3178H 8.5", 2-B tube, 1 to 2 mW
3599H     6.5 mA (Fixed?)  ????? V   ????? 13", 4 to 5 mW
3509H     6.5 mA (Adjust.) ????? V   3176H 12.25", 2-B tube, 3 to 5 mW

Some have a current adjustment pot well hidden inside. It is at the bottom of a recessed hole on the side of the potted HV section against the sheet metal divider. So, 4 screws need to be removed to gain access. These will drive somewhat higher power heads that what's listed but your mileage may vary, and even those with identical model numbers may differ slightly in voltage compliance. Some (like the 3509H) have a glass tube in a socket. This is a thermal relay for the CDRH delay. It can come loose in shipping and then the power supply will appear to be dead.

The only failures I've seen with these power supplies is that if severely overstressed, the regulator inside the potted module may fail shorted and the current will then be way too high. But the power supply can still be used on a Variac to control current (but with some ripple in the output current). Even if the regulator is functional, they can still be used at lower current on a Variac.

The DC-input supplies were not as common as those with line voltage input. The 3595H is one example with a nominal 12 VDC input for the intended laser tube, probably for a barcode scanner. But since there is no regulation, it will happily work over a wide range of input voltages to drive tubes up to at least 5 mW (rated).

Based on appearance, the 3595H is believed to be similar to the Plasma Power 324. See the section: Plasma Power Model 324 HeNe Laser Power Supply (PP-324). The 3595 has an internal ballast which is assumed to be similar to the one in the PP-324 - 136K ohms.

Here are some data on quick tests done using a variety of tubes from 0.5 mW to 5 mW. The first list is with an external 81K ohm ballast:

Input Voltage Tube Type Tube Current

  9 VDC     05-LHR-007 (0.5 mW)      3.0 mA
 10 VDC       SP-088-0 (1 mW)        3.5 mA
 13 VDC       SP-088-2 (2 mW)        5.0 mA
 15 VDC      05-LHR-120 (2 mW)       5.0 mA
 16 VDC         "        "           6.5 mA
 17 VDC      05-LHR-150 (5 mW)       5.0 mA
 19 VDC         "        "           6.5 mA

The duration wasn't very long so it's not known how these would hold up in continuous service for the higher power tubes. There is an aluminum block to which the chopper transistors attached that could be attached to a heat-sink. Even without one, it didn't really get hot even with the 05-LHR-120 tube at 6.5 mA. An aluminum plate (no fins) bolted to the plate did get noticeably warm after a minute or so with the 05-LHR-150 run at 6.5 mA but not dramaticly so. For some reason, this supply would not run an Aerotech OEM5R, which is similar to the 05-LHR-150. The tube glowed throughout its gas volume but the discharge never struck down the bore. All these tests used an 81K ohm ballast.

The next list is with a 12K ohm external ballast:

Input Voltage Tube Type Tube Current

  9 VDC       SP-088-0 (1 mW)        4.0 mA
 10 VDC     05-LHR-006 (0.8 mW)      4.0 mA
 13 VDC       SP-088-2 (2 mW)        5.0 mA
 13 VDC      05-LHR-120 (2 mW)       6.5 mA
 16 VDC      05-LHR-150 (5 mW)       6.5 mA

The supply seemed much happier driving the 05-LHR-150 with relatively little heating of the aluminum plate. It would probably run continuously with no problem. However, all these currents are close to the minimum at which the tubes would stay lit with the 12K ohm external ballast. For example, with 81K ohms, the 05-LHR-150 would be stable down to below 4 mA. So, a compromise might be required with perhaps a 35K ohm external ballast to force a lower dropout current.

Finally, here is a really old Hughes supply - the 3582H. This is a large linear power supply which includes adjustable current and internal adjustable 10 kHz modulation. Here are some photos:

The actual ratings of the 3582H are not known. Assuming that the sample I have is operating correctly, it would appear to have a very limited capability in terms of the size/power of the laser. However, it may have assumed a much lower ballast in the head than the ones I am using. The very old two-Brewster Hughes laser heads like the 3184H had a very low internal ballast of around 30K ohms. (See the section:The Ancient Hughes HeNe Laser Head) Even very low power heads with the typical 75K ohm internal ballast would only pulse unless several of the 15K ohm ballast resistors in the supply were bypassed. Even for a 1 mW laser, all 4 resistors had to be bypassed for the laser to start reliably and run with a acceptable current of 4 mA. A 0.5 mW laser would then run at up to 5 mA, but could be set lower.

The modulation is interesting. Originally, it was thought that there would be a signal input for modulation but that does not exist. The modulation is fixed at about 10 kHz with an amplitude/depth range adjustable from 0 to enough to cause the tube to drop out. There are a pair of unlabeled trim-pots that may perhaps set these limits.

So the current speculation is that the 3582H was intended for one of the lower power 2-B heads, perhaps the 0.5 to 1 mW 3178H but probably not the higher power 3184H.

More to come, perhaps. :)

Voltex HeNe Laser Power Supplies

The folloiwng information is valid as of January, 2011. Complete specifications may be found on theVoltex Web Site.

Dual AC input power supply modules in 1x2.5x3.5" (25x64x89mm) Package 

 Input       Model    Output Volts  Output mA  Notes

115/230 VAC DG-15-00 1,300-1,900 3-6 115/230 VAC DG-22-00 1,900-2,600 4-7 115/230 VAC DG-28-00 2,400-3,200 5-7 115/230 VAC DG-36-00 3,200-4,000 5-7 115/230 VAC DJT-15-0G 1,300-1,900 3-6 CE Compliant 115/230 VAC DJT-22-0G 1,900-2,600 4-7 CE Compliant 115/230 VAC DJT-28-0G 2,400-3,200 5-7 CE Compliant

Dual AC input power supply modules in 1x1.5x6" (25x38x152mm) Package 

 Input       Model    Output Volts  Output mA  Notes

115/230 VAC DJ-15-00 1,300-1,900 3-6 115/230 VAC DJ-22-00 1,900-2,600 4-7 115/230 VAC DJ-28-00 2,400-3,200 5-7 115/230 VAC DJT-15-0J 1,300-1,900 3-6 Compliant version* 115/230 VAC DJT-15-LJ 1,300-1,900 3-6 Ultra-low noise version 115/230 VAC DJT-22-0J 1,900-2,600 4-7 Compliant version* 115/230 VAC DJT-28-0J 2,400-3,200 5-7 Compliant version*

*Complies with with IEC 950, EN 60950, and VDE 0805 standards.

Single AC input power supply modules 

 Input       Model    Output Volts  Output mA  Notes
  115       G-15-00   1,300-1,900      3-6     1x2.5x3.5" (25x64x89mm)
  115       G-22-00   1,900-2,600      4-7     1x2.5x3.5" (25x64x89mm)
  115       G-28-00   2,400-3,200      5-7     1x2.5x3.5" (25x64x89mm)
  115       J-15-00   1,300-1,900      3-6     1x1.5x6" (25x38x152mm)
  115       J-22-00   1,900-2,600      4-7     1x1.5x6" (25x38x152mm)
  115       J-28-00   2,400-3,200      5-7     1x1.5x6" (25x38x152mm)

High output power supply modules 

 Input       Model   Output Volts  Output mA  Notes

115/230 VAC TH-28-00 2,400-3,200 8-10 1.2x3.25x4.25" (30x83x108mm) 115/230 VAC T-36-00 3,200-4,000 5-7 1.2x3.25x4.25" (30x83x108mm) 115/230 VAC TH-36-00 3,200-4,000 8-10 1.2x3.25x4.25" (30x83x108mm)

DC input power supply modules 

 Input      Model    Output Volts  Output mA  Notes

10-14 VDC A-14-00 1,000-1,500 2.5-4 7/8"D.x2-1/8"L (21.5Dx54Lmm) (Fixed current.) 10-14 VDC A-14-LN 1,000-1,500 2.5-4 7/8"D.x3-1/3"L (21.5Dx84Lmm) (Fixed current, low noise) 20-28 VDC C-14-LN 1,000-1,500 2.5-4 7/8"D.x3-1/3"L (21.5Dx84Lmm) (Fixed current, low noise) 10-14 VDC E-15-00 1,200-1,800 3-6.5 1x1.5x3.75" (25x38x95mm) 10-14 VDC E-21-00 1,800-2,500 4-7 1x1.5x3.75" (25x38x95mm) 22-30 VDC F-15-00 1,300-1,900 3-6 1x1.5x3.75" (25x38x95mm) 22-30 VDC F-22-00 1,900-2,600 4-7 1x1.5x3.75" (25x38x95mm) 22-30 VDC F-22-HT 1,900-2,600 4-7 1x1.5x3.75" (25x38x95mm) (High-temperature) 22-30 VDC F-27-HT 2,300-3,200 5-6 1x1.5x3.75" (25x38x95mm) (High-temperature)

Self-contained, dual AC input, laboratory style package

All are 115-240 VAC autoselecting universal input voltage:

 Input       Model    Output Volts  Output mA  Notes

115-240 VAC S-15-00 1,300-1,900 3-6 CE Compliant 115-240 VAC S-22-00 1,900-2,600 4-7 CE Compliant 115-240 VAC S-28-00 2,400-3,200 5-7 CE Compliant 115-240 VAC S-36-00 3,200-4,000 5-7

AC input universal metered laboratory power supply

115/240 VAC U-40 500-4,000 2-10 115-240 VAC U-50 500-5,000 1-12 Autoswitching AC input

If you're into testing a variety of HeNe lasers, the U-40 or U-50 are the power supplies to have and are what laser companies like Melles Griot / Pacific Lasertec use! I have had one for several years after retiring my home built supply. ;-). They provide very stable output and don't complain if the laser won't start, sputters, or drops out periodically. The U-50 can go from powering a 0.5 mW barcode scanner tube to a JDSU 1145P or Spectral 42 RMM-355L a minute later. The U-50 should be able to power lasers like the Melles Griot / Pacific Lasertec 35 mW 05-LHP-928, 35 mW Siemens LGK-7676, and 35 mW Spectra-Physics 127 since its specs cover 1 to 12 mA and 500 V to 5.5 kV. But but my sample will NOT work with these. For wide bore tubes with low dropout current like the Spectral 60 mW RMM-505L, it will probably power on and light them at up to 4 kV. At a current requiring more than 4 kV, it will click off as above. But if set such that the tube is stable, it is possible to back off on the current and increase it to 11 or 12 mA with the tube voltage up to 5.5 kV. This was tested with the Spectral RMM-355L and an additional 220K ohms of ballast to increase the tube voltage to sort of simulate a higher power laser. That 4 kV boundary almost seems digitally precise, though I doubt there is anything like a microcontroller inside the GIANT brick. However, the those 35 mW TEM00 narrow-bore lasers are not stable at any current with an operating voltage under 4 kV. They just sputter a couple times and then the supply clicks off and must be power cycled. I did contact Voltex and their conclusion is that the unit is defective, though they did not volunteer exactly how (not that it would make much difference as any fault is likely to be inside the potted module). My hypothesis is that when starting lasers with a run voltage below 4 kV, the U-50 uses U-40 circuitry and that part is working fine. But when starting above 4 kV, it uses a different set of circuits and something there has failed in this unit.

Check out the Voltex Web Site. I do have three suggestions for improvement though (aside from the problems, above):

  1. The meters should be back-lit, perhaps with an intensity control! ;-) After all, these supplies are used in optics labs where which may be quite dark and being able to read them may be important.
  2. The meters should continue to monitor voltage and current even after the actual HeNe laser power supply is shut off. While the output does bleed down quickly, it still would be nice to be able to confirm the output is at 0 V before unplugging the laser. That would require a main power switch to enable the meters and then a second switch to turn on the laser.
    And guess what? The 2 pin interlock on the back of the supply is a 12 VDC enable input to the HV module. I've replaced the shorting jumper with a toggle switch for that purpose.
    However, a 3-position key-lock switch could replace the toggle for power. OFF/ON/HV. ;-)
  3. A locking collar should be added to the current adjustment as it's too easy to accidentally change it without even realizing anything was done.

I have added some of these features to my U-40 and U-50.

Common Color Coding of Power Supply Bricks

Note: Not all of the HeNe laser power supplies in the next few sections are "bricks" in the strict sense of the term (portions aren't potted!), and the wiring may be via connectors instead of color coded wiring but so be it. :)

Most of the HeNe laser power supply bricks you are likely to encounter will have been manufactured by one of the following companies (in alphabetical order):

Others may simply be relabeled products of these major manufacturers but there are also occasional units from lesser known companies, or those who would not be expected to make any sort of power supply!

The laser head wiring will usually be done in one of the following ways:

The GND may not actually be present on some power supplies. In most cases, it is already connected to the negative elsewhere. The interlock prong activates a microswitch in the power supply to complete the primary-side circuit only if the power supply and laser head are securely attached. This provides protection for the power supply but isn't present on all models.
IMPORTANT: The design of these connectors is somewhat marginal for the peak starting voltage that may be present, especiall with hard-to-start tubes. Make sure the connector is fully seated with the locking ring tight. Otherwise, it's possible for arcing to occur which will damage the power supply connector and possibly the cable connector as well by carbonizing the plastic between the pins.

More details on these can be found in the section:Identifying Connections to Unmarked HeNe Tube or Laser Head Where no output connector is present, the following procedures can be used to identify the positive and negative wires:

The CDRH (Center For Devices And Radiologic Health) of the Food and Drug Administration delay mentioned with respect to some of these power supplies prevents the beam from coming on for 3 to 5 seconds after power is applied (i.e., should the ON switch be hit accidentally) and may be needed to meet certain regulatory requirements.

Whether or not each of the various control inputs or status outputs are present on a particular unit is model dependent.

The following two sections have a summary of some of the wiring color codes I have come across for HeNe laser power supply bricks.

Note: color1/color2 means color1 with a color2 stripe.

Sample Color Coding of AC Input Power Supply Bricks

The following run off of the AC line. Usually, they can be wired for either 115 VAC or 230 VAC operation but sometimes the manufacturer saved a few cents and doesn't provide this option. There is no standard color coding for these bricks though the examples below cover most common models. Earth ground (green or green/yellow) should be tied to power line earth ground for safety. The only place the ground wire goes inside the brick is usually the HV return - everything connected to the AC line is isolated. It's best is to make this a direct connection but it can also be via a 100 ohm resistor to avoid ground loops. Unless specifically noted as not necessary by the manufacturer, a fuse should be installed in series with the Hot wire. A rating of 0.5 to 1 A should be adequate for most small bricks but a several amp fuse may be required for those driving higher power lasers. The fuse is to deal with catastrophic internal failure like a shorted rectifier which could cause parts to explode if there is no protection. A momentary output fault shouldn't blow the fuse. Therefore, the fuse can be soldered in permanently since it should never have to be replaced. See the section:Importance of Fusing Power Supply Bricks.

If you're curious as to how the dual voltage capability is done, here is the simplified circuit for the AC line front-end of one of these power supplies:

              D1
L1 o-----+----|>|-------+---------+-----o DC (+)
        ~|    D2        |+        |
         +----|<|----+  |       +_|_
              D3     |  |     C1 ---
         +----|>|----|--+       - |
         |    D4     |    +-------+     +320 VDC to chopper
L2 o-----+----|<|----+ -  |       |
        ~            |    |     +_|_
L3 o-----------------|----+   C2 ---
                     |          - |
                     +------------+-----o DC (-)

In either case, the polarity of the AC wiring (e.g., for 115 VAC whether Hot goes to L1/L2 and Neutral goes to L3 or vice-versa) shouldn't matter in terms of safety or performance. But follow the manufacturer's recommendations if they show a particular wiring arrangement.

It should be possible to confirm the correct wiring for your line voltage if the power supply isn't labeled or listed below ASSUMING YOU ARE SURE THAT THE WIRES YOU ARE DEALING WITH ARE FOR THE AC INPUT (you really don't want to be pumping line voltage into a logic level enable!). Identify the safety (Earth ground) wire: It should be green or green with a yellow stripe, but age and use might fade it to yellow. Check resistance to the fat black HV output wire - only the ground wire should show low ohms. Usually they are tied together internally since grounding the laser head is really its only purpose on a potted brick. Then use a Variac limited to a maximum voltage of around 120 VAC to feed the supply with its output connected to a known good compatible laser head or HeNe laser tube with 75K ohm ballast resistor. Try each of the 3 possible pairs in turn. For 2 of these, the laser should start at about 60 to 85 VAC. The 3rd will be the 230 VAC configuration and may not start at all on your maximum of 120 VAC. However, locating this pair is a good way to confirm which wires should be tied together for 115 VAC operation. Note that assuming you have the correct three (3) wires, there is no combination (even tying together L1 and L3 or L2 and L3) that will produce smoke from a 115 VAC input and every one but using only the 230 VAC pair alone will result in correct operation. (I just consider it cleaner to tie L1 to L2 as opposed to leaving one of these open or tying it to L3.) CAUTION: There are just guidelines - your mileage may vary!

CAUTION: All unused/unconnected wires should be insulated.

WARNING: The "CDRH loop" or "CDRH delay" on many if not most or all AC-input bricks is NOT isolated from the AC line. So, attempting to repurpose it as a logic enable could result in fireworks or worse unless some sort of opto-coupler is used. This additional danger is not mentioned in any HeNe laser power supply instruction manual I've ever seen. :( :)

Here are the color codes for some common AC line powered models:

  1. Aerotech (115/230 VAC type). Red (or possibly other color except green or green/yellow) wire loop enables CDRH delay (cut to disable). The AC input wire color may depend on model. Green or green with a yellow stripe is earth ground and connected to cathode lead internally. (Some typical specs: LSS 05 - 1,400 V +/-200 V, 4.0 mA; LSS 2 - 1,900 V +/-250 V, 5.0 mA; LSS 5 - 2,500 V +/-300 V, 6.0 mA, LSS 10L - 3,000 V +/-300 V, 6.5 mA. Current may actually be slightly different depending on option but will probably be marked if not equal to what's shown above. There is no current adjust pot accessible from the outside. I know exactly where the pot is (by examining a unit that was partially destroyed) but that doesn't help since the rock-hard Epoxy potting compound surrounds it and drilling a hole at that location would be useless. (However, it might be possible to drill into the pot, discombobulating it, but providing access to its connections. This is left as an exercise for the student.) Note that the designation 05, 2, or 5 means that the supply is sort of intended for 0.5 mW, 2 mW, 5 mW, or 10 mW HeNe lasers, respectively. But of course this isn't etched on stone tablets! The same color code is used for rectangular bricks and integral cylindrical power supplies.
    • 115 VAC: Brown to black, blue (or gray) open.
    • 230 VAC: Blue (or gray) to brown, black open.
  2. Coherent (115 VAC types). Green is earth ground but may NOT be connected to cathode lead internally. Purple wire loop enables CDRH delay (cut to disable).
    • 115 VAC: Whites (tied together) to yellow.
    • 230 VAC: White to white, yellow open.
    • Current select: Connecting white/orange to white/purple selects 6.5 mA; open selects 5.25 mA (model CR90-115). Other Coherent models may differ. A switch can be used in place of the jumper plug. A pot of around 25K ohms can be used to vary the current continuously from about 5.25 mA (25K) to 6.5 mA (0). A reverse audio taper (to get a more uniform change with respect to angle) with a switch at the far CCW position (to get the 5.25 mA) may be best. Or, a 6 position switch with resistors to select the current can be used. Then, no mA meter is needed - just count clicks! :) The appoximate resistor values for mine are: open (5.25 mA), 24K (5.5 mA), 10K (5.75 mA), 3.9K (6.0 mA), 1.2K (6.25 mA), and 0 (6.5 mA), give or take 0.1 mA. If using a "break-before-make" type switch (most common), put a 22 uF (10 V or higher) capacitor between the white/purple (+) and white/orange wires (-) to minimize the current dip during switching. But note that the current will start at 6.5 mA and then decay to the set current in a fraction of a second at power up as the capacitor charges. This is generally of no consequence. With a "make-before-break" type switch, wire as a tapped resistor instead of separate resistors and there will be no glitch. Details are left as an exercise for the student.
  3. Laser Drive (115/230 VAC type). Violet (or possibly other color except green or green/yellow) wire loop enables CDRH delay (cut to disable). Green or green with a yellow stripe is earth ground and connected to cathode lead internally. There may be a current adjust pot.
    • 115 VAC: Whites (tied together) to yellow.
    • 230 VAC: White to white, yellow open.
    • TTL high (+3 to +5 VDC) required between yellow/white (+) and yellow/black (-) to enable laser.
    • Output status signal (possibly around 11 VDC, to drive lamp or something): Gray.
      Or, different colors:
    • 115 VAC: Brown and blue (tied together) to white,
    • 230 VAC: Brown to blue, white open.
      Or, still others:
    • 115 VAC: Reds (tied together) to yellow,
    • 230 VAC: Red to red, yellow open.
      Some 115 VAC Laser Drive power supplies may only have two whites (or other same color) for input. In this case, 115 VAC goes between them. There are no other options. :)
  4. Melles Griot (115/230 VAC type). Violet wire loop enables CDRH delay (cut to disable). Green is earth ground and connected to cathode lead internally. There is usually a current adjust pot near where the input wires exit the brick (may be covered with tape). Some models may not have both 115 VAC and 230 VAC options and/or the CDRH loop. (Some or all Melles Griot power supplies are manufactured by Laser Drive.) An additional number after the 3 digit model may be present to indicate the factory default current setting (changing it voids the warranty, I'm sure you care!) or a code for the maximum power rating of the supply. (Melles Griot power supplies are manufactured by Laser Drive, so check there (above) if your power supply has a different color scheme than the following.
    The following is for their model 05-LPM-379:
    • 115 VAC: Whites (tied together) to yellow.
    • 230 VAC: White to white, yellow open.
      This is for models like the 05-LPM-379, 05-LPM-340, 05-LPM-903, 05-LPM-915, and 05-LPM-939:
    • 115 VAC: Brown and blue (tied together) to white,
    • 230 VAC: Brown to blue, white open.
  5. Power Technology (115/230 VAC type). Violet wire loop enables CDRH delay (cut to disable). Whether AC inputs are white or gray depends on model. Green or green with a yellow stripe is earth ground and connected to cathode lead internally.
    • 115 VAC: Whites or grays (tied together) to yellow.
    • 230 VAC: White to white (or gray to gray), yellow open.
    • TTL enable: Separate pair of wires, on of which is usually White/black. Requires +5 VDC on white/red, high to enable, low to inhibit. These color codes and operation vary by model. The actual voltage may not matter very much with anything from 3 to 10 VDC turning on the laser. Other possible colors include white/yellow and yellow/white.
  6. Spectra-Physics (115/230 VAC type). Violet wire loop enables CDRH delay (cut to disable). Green is earth ground and connected to cathode lead internally. Typical model is 229-7P, which uses the round Spectra-Physics high voltage connector.
    • 115 VAC: Either or both reds or whites (depends on model) to yellow.
    • 230 VAC: Red to red or white to white (depending on model).
  7. Uniphase (115/230 VAC type). For current models, seeJDSU Power Supply Options for HeNe Lasers orSam's Copy of JDSU Power Supply Options for HeNe Lasers. For older models, see the other color codes, above. These may be from Laser Drive. For example, the 314S-2300 with green for ground with violet CDRH loop:
    • 115 VAC: Whites (tied together) to yellow.
    • 230 VAC: White to white, yellow open.
  8. Voltex (115/230 VAC type). For current models, seeVoltex, Inc.. A typical model would have green for ground with violet CDRH loop:
    • 115 VAC: Whites (tied together) to yellow.
    • 230 VAC: White to white, yellow open.

Sample Color Coding of DC Input Power Supply Bricks

The following operate from a low voltage DC input. Most require 12 VDC but some may use a lower voltage (like 6 VDC) or higher voltage (like 18 or 24 VDC). Where covered with a metal foil shield, this will also be connected to the cathode. Red, violet, or other color (except green or green/yellow) wire loop may be present to enable CDRH delay (cut to disable). Regulated input voltage may be needed depending on model. Positive input is almost always red; negative will likely be black or blue. (Both of these may be of thicker gauge than the other low voltage wires.) There is usually a fairly wide range of acceptable input voltage for any given type. For example, those rated at 12 VDC will generally be perfectly happy on anything from 10 to 14 VDC. The input may not need to be regulated or ripple-free as long as it stays within that range.

A general idea of the proper voltage for such a supply if not labeled or listed below can be found by driving it from a variable DC source with a known good compatible laser head or HeNe laser tube and 75K ohm ballast resistor connected to its output. Increase the input voltage until the laser starts but don't go above 12 V even if nothing happens until you have checked for the possibility of a logic signal being needed to enable operation. Figure the voltage at which the laser starts to be around 60 to 75 percent of nominal. If the thing is still, well, dead as a brick at 12 V, it_might_ require a higher voltage but even a 24 V unit should probably show some signs of life (audible whine or ticking) on an input as low as 12 V if it is enabled and functioning correctly. Another indication that the supply is doing something is substantial input current - at least 100 mA even if the laser hasn't started. However, if it looks like a near short circuit, you might have the polarity reversed (some models have a diode across the input to guard against this possibility)! Others may be damaged or killed by reverse polarity. CAUTION: These are just guidelines - your mileage may vary!

Here are the color codes for some common low voltage DC powered models:

  1. Aerotech. There are several variations on input voltage range. They also have a current adjustment pot with a range of around 3 to 5 mA (on the low power versions, a higher range on larger ones. The AC line powered Aerotech power supplies that I have do not have pots accessible except perhaps with a chisel!). The factory default current is typically 4 or 5 mA for the LSS 05 (0.5 mW) units and 5 mA for the LSS 2 (2 mW) units. The ground return loop and operation monitor are not both present on a given unit and may not be present at all. The enable may not be present on all versions.
    • +12, +18, +24, +20 to +30 VDC, etc. (Check nameplate for specific voltage or voltage range.): Red.
    • Low voltage ground (common): Blue.
    • Ground return from cathode: Green/yellow loop, which jumpers high voltage return to DC input return.
    • HV ground: Green/yellow (no loop), connected to HV (Alden) negative.
    • Enable: Yellow - ground to turn on laser.
      Aerotech power supplies designed to fit in the end of a cylindrical laser head have a built-in ballast resistor, so as long as the connection to the anode is no more than a couple of inches, nothing extra is needed.
    • +12 (minimum for stable output on this unit): Red.
    • Ground (common): Blue.
    • Ground return from cathode: Aluminum end-plate or green/yellow loop, which jumpers high voltage return to DC input return and can be used to monitor output current. CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to run the power supply unless there is a low resistance connnection (like a mA meter) between the two wires of this loop, as bad things happen and the power supply may die.
    • Enable: Yellow - ground to turn on laser.
  2. Coherent (these are probably made by Laser Drive):
    • +12 VDC: Red.
    • Ground (common): Black.
    • Enable: Yellow - ground to turn on laser.
  3. Laser Drive model 103-23:
    • +21 to +31 VDC: Red.
    • Ground (common): Black.
    • Enable: Yellow - ground to turn on laser.
  4. Laser Drive model 103-06:
    • +15 VDC: Red.
    • Ground (common): Black.
    • Enable: White with red stripe - tie to +15 VDC to turn on laser.
  5. Power Technology model L23D-DW. This is really old, probably the power supply for the Spectra-Physics 084 tube used in early '80s barcode scanners.
    • +9 to +17 VDC: Red.
    • Ground (common) and laser tube cathode: Black.
    • Enable high: White with red stripe. This works using a 1K ohm resistor to the positive input (red wire). I do not know if it is inteded to be TTL compatible or whether it can be connected directly to the red wire.
    • Aux output: Thin white wire, probably -V for RS232 driver.
  6. Yahata Electric Works, Ltd. model HVR-C234H-1. They call this a "High Voltage Unit" but it's a HeNe laser power supply. Input is via a 3 pin connector, not color coded wires, and only the high voltage circuitry is potted. Output specs are: 2.35 kV at 6.5 mA connections are via 3/16" (+) and 1/8" (-) FastOn lugs. CAUTION: This power supply is NOT short circuit protected as I found out! :(
    Pins listed when viewing power supply case with output terminals facing down:
    • +24 VDC (1 A max): Bottom pin (towards center of case).
    • Ground (common): Top pin (near edge of case).
    • Trigger: Middle pin, pull to ground and release to start, leave open to run, ground to stop.
  7. 12 VDC type, manufacturer unknown, Herbach and Rademan part number TM91LSR1495. Output on 1/4" FastOn lugs with hand printed lables which may be wrong - double check polarity before powering a laser!
    • +12 VDC: Red.
    • Ground (common): Black.
  8. 12 VDC type, models unknown (from barcode scanners):
    • +12 VDC: Red.
    • Ground (common): Black.
    • Enable: Yellow - ground to turn on laser.
      And another:
    • +12 VDC: Red.
    • Ground (common): Black.
    • Enable: While/yellow - high (+4 V) to turn on laser.
    • Scan motor: Black/white, white/black, and blue/black.
  9. Hand-held barcode scanner head brick, manufacturer unknown. This may be a sort of Standard. (My sample may have come from a Symbol Technologies LS-6000/6500 but it had no markings.) Output is fixed at 3.0 mA for a Melles Griot 05-LHR-006, Siemens LGR-7651, or Uniphase 1007 6 inch tube.
    • +12 VDC: Red.
    • Ground (common): Black.
    • Enable: Yellow or white with yellow stripe - turns laser on when connected to a level between +5 and +12 VDC. (For normal use, leave attached to red wire.)
    • -Aux output (measured -13 VDC): White or white with black stripe. This unregulated voltage is intended to power other circuitry, possibly the RS232 driver used by the scanner.
      And one similar to above but 6 VDC:
    • +6 VDC: Red.
    • Ground (common): Black.
    • Enable: Yellow or white with yellow stripe - turns laser on when connected to +6 VDC. (For normal use, leave attached to red wire.)
    • +Aux output (measured +11 VDC): White or gray with red stripe.
    • -Aux output (measured -14 VDC): White or white with black stripe.
      The AUX voltages are unregulated and intended to power other circuitry, probably an RS232 driver used by the scanner.
  10. Partially potted supply from Spectra-Physics barcode scanner head. This one is a strange shape, a tapered flattened cylinder, mostly copper foil covered, but with some of the low voltage circuitry exposed. Output is fixed at 3 mA for a Spectra-Physics 007 or Melles Griot 05-LHR-007 4-3/4" tube. It uses a 7 pin header for most connections with pin 1 on the far right facing the unit. OK, this isn't really color coding but so be it. :)
  1. Copper foil covered trapazoidal shapped power supply from Metrologic barcode scanner, part number: 37157. (Many of these scanners had the very unusual genuine Metrologic steel-ceramic hard-seal HeNe laser tubes.)

Importance of Fusing Power Supply Bricks

Do NOT be tempted to cut corners and omit safety devices like fuses when wiring up a HeNe laser power supply brick! Well, any power supply, for that matter, but because these are totally potted, there are added dangers. Even well designed commercial power supply bricks may lack internal protection and have been known to explode like grenades if not wired up with a fuse or the wrong fuse is used. A proper fuse will prevent or at least greatly reduce the possibility of a component cooking for long enough to cause this sort of damage. Many or even most newer brick power supplies do have an internal fuse which will blow should there be a failure of a major component, but not an overload like a momentary short on the output. (Of course, once blown, the power supply is only good as a rectangular hockey puck.) Unless the specifications or label states: "Internally Fused" or something similar, add one of your own in the Hot side of the AC line. If you acquire a power supply already wired (e.g., on eBay), check to see if there is a fuse and add one if not. It's cheap insurance.

Electrolytic capacitors are probably the components most susceptible to this cranky behavior. Where out in the open, a blown capacitor (due to a shorted line rectifier, for example) will just result in a POP, smelly gas, white smoke, and a whole bunch of capacitor guts (foil, etc.) all over everything (though such capacitors have also been known to just vanish into thin air). However, when totally encased in solid Epoxy, there is no place for the gas to go. So, pressure builds up, probably to several hundred PSI, before something lets loose. This is a rare occurrance but one you don't really want to experience!

I've recently come across a defective Melles Griot (made by Laser Drive) 05-LPM-370 power supply brick that was on its way to exploding with a noticeable bulge in the top surface. This was scary as that implied some significant pressure inside. It was being powered by a Variac (5 A fuse) into a stack of resistors (about 500K) and a 5 mW tube in an attempt to make it maintain a stable discharge (the tube was flashing). I don't know if a proper fuse would have blown though. :(

An old Aerotech brick (unmarked, but one of the large long ones that typically run 10+ mW lasers) also may have developed a bulge while running a laser head that should have been compatible. While the bulge wasn't that severe, was only modestly warm to the touch, and *might* have been there all along, that's not normal and I didn't wait to find out if the thing would explode. :)

Here are specific instructions for some common Laser Drive bricks: 314S - 1 A, 314T 115 VAC 60 Hz - 0.4 A, 314T 220 VAC 60 Hz - 0.2 A, 230 VAC, 50 Hz - 0.25 A (all slow blow type). For other types where the recommended fuse rating isn't available, use 1/2 A for small power supplies (e.g., up to 5 mW lasers), 1 A for larger ones. Slow blow fuses really should be fine as the sorts of failures being protected against are going to put many times the rated current through the fuse. However, I've usually had no problems with standard fuses. Since these fuses should not blow under normal operation and even reasonable abuse, just solder them to the Hot power leads of the power supply and line cord (but take care that the heat of the soldering iron doesn't melt the fuse element!).

I had a very nice Laser Drive 380T that failed in this manner when it was turned on with the output accidentally shorted. A 1 inch chunk of potting material flew off as a result of two unidentified parts vaporizing inside. They may have been fusable or other resistors in series with the output of the voltage doubler at the front-end. I doubt that a fuse would have saved the power supply, but it might have prevented the blast.

While a fuse won't guarantee that there will be no fireworks, it should reduce the chances.

The following is what Laser Drive recommends for their 380T HeNe laser power supply bricks, rated at 3800 V, 6.5 mA. (This was actually found on a JDS Uniphase-labeled brick):

          Fuse     Transient
Line     Rating     Voltage    OR

Voltage (Slo Blo) Suppressor Varistor

110/120 1.5 A 1.5KE220CP S20K140 220/240 0.75 A 1.5KE440CP S20K275

The Transient Voltage Suppressor or Varistor goes after the fuse and limits the peak voltage in the event of a power surge. Even so, the state that these modules should only be used inside another case. :)

Even though DC-input bricks run at lower voltages and typically won't have the same amount of explosive energy available, a properly sized fuse is also important, if for no other reason than to protect the DC power supply feeding it! If there is no internal fuse, the typical failure will put a nearly dead short across the input if the chopper transistor fails. The label will often list the maximum current, so a fuse rated at somewhat above that will be suitable. If the supply is being used with a laser tube of much lower power than what is possible with the power supply, a smaller fuse may suffice.

(From: Someone who would rather remain anonymous.)

Besides the obvious dangers of these little power supplies, such as the high voltage at low current, there is another danger anyone powering up a HeNe brick power supply should be aware of. This could save you a trip to the hospital or worse - HeNe laser power supply - Proves the "Big Bang theory":

ALWAYS use a properly sized fuse in line with your power supply! Everyone knows this, right? But did you know that there are some commercial HeNe laser power supplies that can actually EXPLODE if there just happens to be an internal problem in the supply or the laser head when powered up if a fuse is not used in-line with the input, or if there is a fuse but it is grossly oversized in it's amperage rating, or maybe even if it is of the correct amperage but a "slow blow" type instead of a "fast blow"?

I have heard of these certain power supplies actually exploding within 1 to 2 seconds after being powered up, well today, it happened to ME while testing a lot of power supplies for 2 to 3 mW HeNe laser heads! No names will be mentioned, but the manufacturer's initials are L.D.

The power supply that did explode on me was fused, but someone, (no not me) put in a 20 amp fuse instead of a 1.5 - 2 amp. Well this was a used surplus unit pulled from medical equipment, of which I was testing out several. The first 5 worked just fine, but the 6th one had other ideas. Little did I know when I first applied the required 115 VAC that this was a bad power supply, but that's why I was testing them.

Well, within 1.5 seconds of applying power to it, surprise, surprise - the entire side of the plastic case and a lot of the hard Epoxy potting suddenly became dangerous flying shrapnel. Plus, the resulting extremely loud BANG was deafening and the resulting shock wave felt like being hit in your inner ear by a speeding golf ball at the world tournament. I was only 4 feet away from it at the time, but even now, 6.5 hours later, my ear is still quite painful. I would liken the sound of the blast to a 12 gauge shotgun being fired within two feet of your ears. The flying shrapnel could have caused very serious injuries. But thankfully, it didn't hit any of us. (But, what about the laser tube? :) --- sam.)

The catastrophic failure occurred because to large a fuse was used but I guarantee that the results would have been NO different with this particular power supply if no fuse was used.

What actually happened was that because of a malfunction in the power supply (probably a shorted rectifier in the AC line input), a 3/4" x 1/2" electrolytic capacitor exploded inside the case thus turning this power supply into a hard Epoxy and plastic BOMB.

I do not believe that all commercially produced HeNe laser power supplies can react this way if powered up with an internal problem. But trust me on this one: Be sure to use a fuse and of the correct rating and type because you don't want to find out the hard way.

An executive of the above unnamed manufacturer said that if a fuse would eliminate this exploding problem when the power supply goes south. I also noticed that this, now totally dead power supply drew much more current than is normal from the 115 VAC input when first powered. This would have blown a fuse of the correct size. However, I guess we will never know if this actually would have prevented the power supply from exploding! :(

Adapters for DC HeNe Power Supply Bricks

Most HeNe laser power supplies which use a DC input require a voltage between 9 to 12 VDC. However, some may require one that is higher like 18 VDC or 20 to 30 VDC (the latter typically originate from larger barcode scanners or older HeNe laser based LaserDisc players). Wall adapters for these are not that common. (Note that bricks using 115/230 VAC may also work with 300 VDC if wired for 230 VAC since their input is a rectifier and filter but AC wall outlets are generally more readily available!)

Here are several simple regulated power supplies which may be constructed easily using parts available from Radio Shack, or possibly from your junk box. (1) and (2) are basically the same but cover the 9 to 12 V and 20 to 28 V ranges, respectively. (3) is for the higher voltage input but may be built using a 12 V transformer. However, if you have a suitable transformer, (2) is preferred to (3). These can easily be modified for your specific requirements (like 18 VDC). T1 can be an AC wall adapter with an adequate current rating but realize that their output voltage can vary by a ratio of 2:1 depending on load (they use mediocre transformers!). A low voltage power transformer will generally have a much stiffer output characteristic - less change in output voltage versus load current.

It is always s good idea to have a fuse on the output, especially where the supply is capable of much higher current than required for the brick. Where T1 is an normal power transformer, a fuse should also be included in its primary. If T1 is part of a wall adapter, this isn't required as it is already protected internally.

The following assume a power requirement of 10 W max. Depending on the actual ratings of your brick, component values may need to be changed.

  1. Output 9 to 12 VDC: This one uses a 12 V, 1 A power transformer with a bridge rectifier, filter, and IC regulator. The diodes can be 1N4001s or better, or a bridge rated at least 50 V and 1 A.
    12V,1A
    H o--+ T1
    )|| D1 In +--------+ Out F1 _
    )|| +---+------|>|--+---+----| LT1084 |----+-----+---_ ---o +Output
    )||( | | | +--------+ | | 1A
    )||( | D2 | | Com | R1 | |
    )||( | +--|>|--+ | +--//--+ |

115 VAC )||( | | | | 180 | C2
(fused) )||( | | C1 +| R2 / |+ 10uF
)||( | | 5,000uF --- 1.2K \ +---+ --- 25V
)||( | | 25V - | / | | | - Tant-
)||( | | D3 | | v | | alum
)|| +---|---+--|<|--+ | +--//--+ |
)|| | | | R3 500 | |
N o--+ | D4 | | +9 to 12V | |
+------|<|--+---+------------------+-----+--------o Common 2. **Output 20 to 28 VDC:** This one uses a 24 V, .5 A power transformer with a bridge rectifier, filter, and IC regulator. The diodes can be 1N4002s or better, or a bridge rated at least 100 V and 1 A. For a +15 to 21 VDC output, use an 18 V power transformer and adjust the values of R2 and R3 appropriately.
24V,.5A
H o--+ T1
)|| D1 In +--------+ Out F1 _
)|| +---+------|>|--+---+----| LT1084 |----+-----+---_ ---o +Output
)||( | | | +--------+ | | 1A
)||( | D2 | | Com | R1 | |
)||( | +--|>|--+ | +--//--+ |
115 VAC )||( | | | | 180 | C2
(fused) )||( | | C1 +| R2 / |+ 10uF
)||( | | 5,000uF --- 2.7K \ +---+ --- 50V
)||( | | 50V - | / | | | - Tant-
)||( | | D3 | | v | | alum
)|| +---|---+--|<|--+ | +--//--+ |
)|| | | | R3 1.5K | |
N o--+ | D4 | | +20 to 28V | |
+------|<|--+---+------------------+-----+--------o Common 3. **Output 20 to 28 VDC:** This one uses a 12 V, 1 A power transformer and is a voltage doubler feeding an IC regulator. The diodes can be 1N4002s or better (at least 100 V, 1 A. It may even be possible to use the AC wall adapter from an older modem for T1 (at least near the lower end of the voltage range) but testing would be required as the actual performance of these cheap transformers vary quite a bit. I tried a wall adapter from a pre-Jurassic 2400 baud modem - that worked fine with the voltage set between 21 and 26 VDC powering a Laser Drive model 103-23 HeNe laser power supply with a 1 mW (6 inch long) HeNe tube.
12V,1A
H o--+ T1
)|| D1 In +--------+ Out F1 _
)|| +---+----|>|--------+----| LT1084 |----+-----+---_ ---o +Output
)||( | | +--------+ | | 1A
115 VAC )||( | C1 +| Com | R1 | |
(fused) )||( | 10,000uF --- +--//--+ |
)||( | 25V - | | 180 | C3
)||( | | R2 / |+ 10uF
)|| +---|---------------+ 2.7K \ +---+ --- 50V
)|| | | / | | | - Tant-
N o--+ | C2 +| | v | | alum
| 10,000uF --- +--//--+ |
| 25V - | R3 1.5K | |
| D2 | +20 to 28V | |
+----|<|--------+------------------+-----+--------o Common

The LT1084 is a modern low dropout IC regulator but an LM317 can also be used. (However, the voltage rating of T1 may need to be increased by 1 or 2 V to compensate for the added voltage drop of the older technology regulator.) Or, use a fixed positive regulator (e.g., 7812 or 7824) which would eliminate the resistors. A 150 uF aluminum electrolytic capacitor can be used in place of the tantalum (required for stability with the LT1084, only a few uF is required for the LM317 or 78xx regulators). Fixed or adjustable negative voltage regulators can also be substituted though there is no benefit unless that's all you have in your junk box. Just reverse all the diodes and capacitor polarities. A good heatsink should be put on the regulator especially if the output voltage is much lower than the voltage on the main filter cap(s).

CAUTION: Double check the pinout for your IC regulator - they are not all the same. Here are some examples (all views from the front):

78xx (Fixed Pos) 79xx (Fixed Neg) LM317 (Adj Pos) LM337 (Adj Neg)

|O| |O| |O| |O| | | 1 = Input | | 1 = Common | | 1 = Adjust | | 1 = Adjust || 2 = Common || 2 = Input || 2 = Output || 2 = Input ||| 3 = Output ||| 3 = Output ||| 3 = Input ||| 3 = Output 123 123 123 123

The LT1084 has the same pinout as the LM317.

Examples of the Use of Commercial Power Supply Bricks

The following two sections describe the required connections and additional circuitry that I used to make complete lasers using two types of HeNe tubes and power supplies that were available from Herbach and Rademan. This will be similar to what is required when wiring up any compatible combination of HeNe laser power supply bricks and HeNe laser tubes or heads. (Note that I am not necessarily recommending H&R as a surplus laser supplier - they are quite overpriced in this area. However, I didn't know any better when I purchased my first HeNe lasers!)

1 mW HeNe Laser Powered by 12 VDC, 1 A Wall Adapter

H&R part numbers: HeNe tube - TM94LSR2631, Power supply - TM91LSR1495.

This uses a short (140 mm) HeNe tube (Siemens LGR7655 or equivalent) and no-name power supply running off of 9 VDC. I mounted these in a case which was from a 1/8" cartridge tape backup system in its former life. In order to obtain regulated 9 VDC, an LM317 IC regulator on a heat sink was added along with a power switch, power-on LED, and the required ballast resistor of 150K. The ballast resistor was determined by monitoring the HeNe tube current and selecting values until the current was correct (apparently, this particular brick has no internal current regulation). The HeNe tube was mounted on standoffs using a pair of nylon cable clamps and aimed through a hole drilled in the plastic case which.

    F1 _   S1      +-------+                   In+ +--------+ HV+

V+ o----_ ---/ ---+--| LM317 |--+------+-----+-------| |-------+ 1A Power | +-------+ | | | | | | | | A / | / R3 | | / Rb | | \ R1 | \ 500 | 9 VDC | \ 150K | | / 240 | / | HeNe | / | C1 | | +| C2 | | Laser | | Tube+ --- .1 +------+ --- 10 | | Power | .-|-. | uF | - | uF | Power | Supply | | | | \ R2 | | IL1 | Brick | | | LT1 | / 1.5K | _/ LED | | | | | \ | | | | ||_|| | | | | Gnd | | HV- '-|-' V- o--------------+------+-------------+-----+-------| |-------+ Tube- +--------+

It may be easier to locate a 12 VAC, 1 A wall transformer since these were commonly used to power older obsolete modems. In this case, add a bridge rectifier and a 5,000 to 10,000 uF, 25 V filter capacitor to the input.

Using a 7809 or similar fixed 9 VDC positive voltage regulator in place of the LM317 would save a few components. And the switch and LED aren't exactly essential. However, unless the input power source has an appropriately sized secondary fuse (e.g., 1 or 2 A, not 20 A), the fuse should be included.

WARNING: Double check polarity before powering a laser. The unit I first received had the HV polarity reversed from the hand printed labels. I sent if back and they simply stuck new labels over the old ones and returned it. :)

2 mW HeNe Laser Using AC Line Operated Power Supply Brick

This setup was sold as a power supply and HeNe tube combination. Although no longer available from H&R, this same laser does show up from other surplus outfits, on eBay, and elsewhere. A similar unit is shown under power inSiemens LGR7631A HeNe Laser Tube and Laser Drive Power Supply Brick (Powered) (photo courtesy of: Joseph Chiu (josephc@alumni.caltech.edu)).

This particular brick can be wired for either 115 VAC or 230 VAC operation and includes an 'enable' input which must be pulled up to turn on the tube (thus the 9 V battery visible in the photo). Likewise, rather than using a separate power supply just for this, I provided a battery holder with 4 AA cells. Even old tired decrepit ones work fine in this application! The only other parts I added were the line cord, power switch, fuse, light, and enable switch. Everything is mounted on a nice wooden frame painted flat black. :)

The ballast resistor was already built into the tube mounting so that this was truly a 'plug-and-play' assembly.

   F1 _   S1                       white +----------+ HV+

H o----_ ---/ ---+-----------------+-------| |--------<<---+ .5A Power | | white | | RED | / +-------| | / Rb R1 \ | 115/230 | \ 75K 47K / S2 Enable yel/wht | VAC HeNe | / | +-----/ -------------| Laser | | Tube+ +|+ | | Power | .-|-. IL1 |o| | | | | | yel/blk | Supply | | | NE2H |o| +---||||||||---------| Brick | | | LT1 Power +|+ +| | | | - | | | | | B1 5-6 V | | ||_|| | yellow | | BLACK '-|-' N o---------------+-------------------------| |--------<<---+ Tube- +----------+ HV- green | G o-----------------------------------------------+

Notes:

  1. BLACK and green wires are joined inside power supply so tube cathode will be tied to earth ground when plugged into properly grounded outlet.
  2. Wiring shown for 115 VAC. For operation on 230 VAC, use white wires on each side of line and leave yellow wire unconnected.

A closeup of the components of another similar unit is shown inSiemens LGR7631A HeNe Laser Tube and Laser Drive Power Supply Brick (Components) (photo courtesy of: Effie Wiegand (bestofme@home.com). Note the black 'button' on the right-end of the tube (attached to the plastic anode insulator). This contains a slightly angled glass plate presumably to protect the tube's output mirror. I found it to be quite dirty on one sample I acquired - the beam quality was terrible until it was removed (just pulls off). In fact, I believe the previous owner sold the laser for next to nothing due to the messed up beam! These also came with a diverging lens on an adjustable mount of sorts (visible in the lower right of the photo). I assume this to be the first lens in a beam expander and collimator (but the other components stay with whatever sort of barcode scanner, printer, or other equipment from which this laser originated).

Lab Style HeNe Laser Power Supply Using Power Supply Brick

I installed an Aerotech LSS 5(6.5) HeNe laser power supply in an aluminum Minibox(tm) chassis to create a 'lab' style unit capable of driving HeNe laser heads requiring 2,200 to 2,800 V (including ballast resistor) at 6.5 mA. These are typically 4 to 12 mW red HeNe lasers (or lower power other color HeNe lasers) though the specific requirements will depend on model.

This arrangement is basically what is inside most modern commercial 'lab' style HeNe laser power supplies - a standard brick model mounted in a box with AC power cord, fuse, line filter, on/off/key switch, power-on light, Alden connector to attach the HeNe laser head, and an interlock connector and/or line voltage select switch on some models - along with an inflated price! :)

      +--------+  F1 _    S1            brown +------------+
H o---|        |----_ ----/ ---+------+-------|            |------< HV+
      |        |  1A    Power  |      |  blue |            | RED
      |        |        (Key)  / R1   +-------|  Aerotech  |
      |        |               \ 47K          |  115/230   |
      | Corcom |               /          red |    VAC     |
      |  Line  |               |        +-----| LSS 5(6.5) |    Alden
      | Filter |              +|+       |     | HeNe Laser |  Connector
      |        |          IL1 |o|       | red |   Power    |
      |        |         NE2H |o|       +-----|   Supply   |
      |        |        Power +|+             |   Brick    |
      |        |               |        black |            | BLACK
N o---|        |---------------+--------------|            |------< HV-
      +--------+                              +------------+
          |                                   green |
G o-------+-----------------------------------------+

Notes:

  1. BLACK and green wires are joined inside power supply so tube cathode will be tied to earth ground when plugged into properly grounded outlet.
  2. Wiring shown for 115 VAC. For operation on 230 VAC, use blue and brown wires on each side of line and leave black wire unconnected.
  3. The red wires jumpered together (CDRH loop) enable 4 second power-on delay.

Initial Testing of HeNe Laser Power Supply Bricks

Two aspects of power supply operation should be checked as soon as possible after powering up your HeNe tube for the first time: polarity and current.

If the power supply is a name brand unit or was pulled from a device like a bar code scanner, it is safe to assume that the connections (the output in particular) are correctly labeled. However, some power supplies sold to hobbyists (e.g., from places like Herbach and Rademan Co. or HSC Electronic Supply) have been known to have incorrectly marked high voltage connections. (The models I have seen this on are a low voltage inverter type with red and black wire leads for the 9 or 12 V input and spade terminals for the high voltage marked with hand printed or typed stickers for VA and VC - apparently at random.) If your power supply looks like it was put together in someone's basement, this should confirmed to prevent damage to the HeNe tube from reverse polarity.

At the same time, the HeNe tube current can be checked.

Put a 1K, 1/4 W resistor in series with the cathode return and measure across it with a voltmeter for the correct polarity and current. The end of the resistor attached to the HeNe tube cathode should be positive and the current will be 1 mA/V of your reading. Also see the section:Making Measurements on HeNe Laser Power Supplies.

HeNe Laser Power Supplies in Series or Parallel?

So you have a couple of HeNe laser power supply bricks for use with 1 to 2 mW HeNe lasers and someone just gave you a 5 mW HeNe laser head. Is it possible to use the two in series or parallel instead of buying or building a suitable power supply?

Larger HeNe tubes require much more operating and starting voltage, and possibly more current as well. The current difference is of less consequence than the voltage difference.

For example, a 5 mW tube may have a nominal current rating of 6.5 mA but will probably run just fine on 4 or 5 mA (though a higher value ballast resistor may be needed to maintain stability). However, the 5 mW tube will require about twice the operating and starting voltage of a 1 mW tube (thus requiring a series connection if such a kludge is possible at all).

Whether the power supplies can be hooked in series or parallel depends on their design. The inverter types in particular (which includes all bricks), could become mighty unhappy. I wouldn't recommend connecting HeNe power supplies in series without knowing exactly what's inside. You could end up with two dead power supplies and there could also be safety issues with respect to insulation breakdown, explosive disassembly of internal components, and other undesirable and unfortunate consequences.

However, it may be possible to connect them in parallel to increase the current capability. Where both power supplies regulate using high-side current sensing (as is common with bricks since the negative returns usually go directly to ground), then this may be possible if both power supplies are able to operate within their current compliance range. Additional details are left as an exercise for the student. :)

And, there is one special case which does have a good chance of success as described in the next section.

Boosting the Current of a HeNe Laser Power Supply

So, you got a great deal on a HeNe laser power supply rated 2,500 V at 6.0 mA. This would be great for powering a 5 mW HeNe laser except for one problem: Most 5 mW HeNe lasers run optimally at 6.5 mA. Now, as a practical matter, 6.0 mA is usually still just fine and most people would never notice the difference in output power, stability, or (optical) noise. But, for the purist, 6.5 mA would still be best.

It should be possible to add that extra 0.5 mA from a second (non-HeNe laser) power supply in parallel with a HeNe laser power supply with a fixed output current. This would usually be used with a potted power supply brick lacking a current adjust pot since otherwise, it's usually a simple matter to just modify it directly!

All that is needed is a power supply capable of providing the additional current at a voltage greater than the operating voltage of the HeNe laser (tube + ballast resistance). The source can be a potted high voltage (voltage regulated) module, voltage multiplier from an isolated transformer, or some other similar low current power supply. Feed the auxiliary power supply into the top of the ballast resistance via a HV isolation diode (e.g., microwave oven or CRT HV rectifier) to prevent the starting voltage from appearing on the auxiliary supply. To protect the HeNe laser power supply brick, it won't hurt to install a similar HV isolation diode in series with it's output as well (though this is probably not essential). The amount of added current can be adjusted with resistors in series with the auxiliary source. The negative outputs of both power supplies should be tied together.

                    6kV          R1     >10kV

HeNe Laser PS + o-----|>|----+----//-----|<|-----o + Auxiliary Supply | o To top of ballast resistance

Since the current regulator of the HeNe laser power supply doesn't see the extra current, it won't fight the auxiliary power supply. However, it is the responsibility of the auxiliary power supply to do the regulation of the added current. Since it's only a very small current, series resistors are probably good enough - no active regulation is needed. A current regulated supply could also be used as long as the current sensing of both the power supplies takes place separately. This usually means the auxiliary power supply senses current in the HV feed, not the return (which is usually grounded), since this is what most HeNe laser power supply bricks do.

I've tested this approach with an Aerotech LSS 5(L) AC line powered brick fixed at 6.0 mA and a variable HV DC power supply. The HV rectifier from a 12 inch CRT monitor was used for isolation with a 100K resistor for current limiting. The current could be varied from 6.0 mA (provided by the brick) and 7.0 mA or more by adjusting the auxiliary supply.

It would be a simple matter to construct an auxiliary power supply with a low voltage DC input using a 555 and MOSFET to drive a small flyback. A duty cycle/frequency adjust pot would permit output current to be easily varied. This could turn an otherwise not terribly useful fixed current brick into a very flexible lab HeNe power supply.

Reducing the Current of a HeNe Laser Power Supply

While less common than the case above, there may come a time when it would be nice to operate a 7.0 mA power supply with a laser tube requiring only 6.0 or 6.5 mA.

In principle, this could be done by adding a current bypass in parallel with the HeNe laser tube. If it weren't for the issue of the very high starting voltage, a simple resistor (rated for high voltage) would be adequate. For a known voltage across the laser head (tube + ballast resistance), Ohm's Law could be used to determine the resistance value to use. For a small reduction in current (e.g., 0.5 or 1 mA), no regulation would be needed. However, the problem is how to deal with the starting voltage. Any resistance connected permanently across the laser head would probably prevent the starting voltage from being high enough due to the very limited current availability of most starting circuits. One way around this would be to add a high voltage relay that only closed the current bypass after the tube has started. However, it probably would need to be a mechanical relay and one rated for 10 kV or greater. A manual HV switch could also be used.

Using a HeNe Laser Power Supply for Other Applications

HeNe laser power supplies can be used for non-laser experiments as long as they are not called upon to operate outside their normal compliance range. Depending on model, you can get anywhere from 1 kV to 6 kV (or more) at a few mA. One such application is as a capacitor charger for small pulsed solid state lasers. See the chapter: Complete SS Laser Power Supply Schematics for a specific example.

Put a load on the output so that it runs in the normal operating (not starting) range of voltages. Near the upper end is fine (e.g., higher load resistance) as long as the voltage remains within specs but you don't want to have the supply continually attempting to start a non-existent HeNe tube - that is hard on any supply.

Note that most HeNe laser power supplies including 'bricks' are NOTtotally isolated between input and output - the negative of the high voltage is probably either directly or via some high resistance connected to the earth ground (AC line types) or the negative of the input (DC input types). Check the continuity between the black HV lead and the negative of the input. Many are tied together internally. Even if it isn't 0 ohms, there may be current sensing feedback that is via high value resistors.

Back to HeNe Laser Power Supplies Sub-Table of Contents.

Power Supply Measurements, Testing, Repair

Making Measurements on HeNe Laser Power Supplies

Voltage and/or current measurements on a HeNe laser power supply may be needed to characterize its performance bounds, to troubleshoot or identify a defective unit, or to monitor conditions during operation or with different HeNe tubes, particularly where there are user adjustments (i.e., a Variac used as an input voltage source).

Note: I DO NOT recommend the use of typical DMMs (Digital MultiMeters) for measurements in high voltage power supplies of this type. Many of these are more susceptible to damage from voltage or current spikes than analog VOMs (Volt Ohm Meters) or simple dedicated moving coil (D'Arsenval) panel meters. However, even with these, there can be internal arcing which may result in damage that doesn't show up until long after you have forgotten all about HeNe laser power supplies! :(

It is difficult to measure the output voltage of a HeNe laser power supply with a multimeter even if it is supposedly within your meter's range. Connecting the meter across the tube while it is on will likely extinguish the arc due to the capacitance of the probe inducing a momentary dip in the voltage. Even if the tube remains lit or restarts, there may actually be oscillation resulting in an erroneous reading. Where possible, measurements should be made upstream of the ballast resistor(s) and corrected for their voltage drop.

Leaving a multimeter connected during starting may prevent the tube from firing due to its additional capacitance and reduced resistance. And, the meter may be damaged due to arcing from any high voltage starting pulses.

Here are some recommendations:

WARNING: Make sure whatever you have is well insulated and/or grounded where appropriate. Those high voltages can bite! Use proper high voltage cable (rated 20 kV or more - non-resistive type automotive ignition cable and TV or monitor CRT high voltage cable works well) and insulated coverings on the terminals (several layers of plastic electrical tape or Plexiglas barriers). You may be working in the dark (light-wise, at least) or with somewhat subdued lighting, so it makes sense to prevent accidental contact as much as possible. This is especially important with power supplies that may be overkill (no pun intended...really!) as is often the case with home-built equipment.

CAUTION: Assure that all connections are secure and that the high voltage connections are well insulated. Intermittent contact, arcs, shorts, and other faults may be fatal to power supplies regardless of what their Marketing blurb says about being *fully* protected!

Ballast Resistor Selector and Meter Box

I built this hand-dandy gadget both as a means of easily adjusting the ballast resistance as well as providing a convenient readout for HeNe tube current and voltage. It is shown in HeNe Laser Ballast Resistor Selector and Meter Box. The entire complex circuit is mounted between a pair of blank Fiberglas-Epoxy PCB panels separated by 2 inch standoffs. It will plug into any HeNe laser power supply with an Alden connector and has special custom clip leads (read: alligator clips with formed paper clips soldered to their ends) to easily attach to the mirror mounts or HV terminals of any HeNe tube.

The first part is the tapped ballast resistor and current monitor:

  Female    +------------------------------------+
  Alden     |                                    | 
  Anode     |                                    V
    o       | o      o      o      o      o      o      o      o
    |   R1  | |  R2  |  R3  |  R4  |  R5  |  R6  |  R7  |  R8  |    Tube

HV+ <--+--//-+-+-//-+-//-+-//-+-//-+-//-+-//-+-//-+--o Anode Setting->217K 190K 163K 135K 108K 81K 54K 27K HV Leads Male Alden R1-R8: 27.1K, 2W to HeNe Connector M1 Tube +---------+ HV- <-------------------------| 0-10 mA |----------------------------o Cathode +---------+ (Tube or Female Alden)

If you're wondering about the peculiar resistor value of 27.1K, the answer is the same one as to the question: "Why do people climb mountains?". :)

The HV leads plug in via banana jacks and can be either a short clip lead for the tube anode and longer one for the tube cathode, or a female Alden connector (as shown in the photo). The Alden positive lead can also be plugged in to any of the non-zero ballast resistance jacks to add ballast resistance if desired.

Note that (except for the 27K setting), the Tube Anode lead always goes directly to the end of exactly one resistor to minimize capacitance at the tube and to protect the power supply in the event of a, well, unfortunate accident (like a short circuit). (For the 27K setting, the assumption is that there is an additional ballast resistance near the tube anode so capacitance doesn't matter as much.) This lead is also relatively short - about 4 inches for this same reason. Each tap is a banana jack and the tap selector is just a VERY WELL INSULATED jumper with a banana plug on its end (though I still don't recommend trying to change settings while powered!).

The following is connected directly across the output for measuring tube voltage:

               Rm1

Anode o----+----//-----+ | 50M | | 15kV S1 / See text | | | +-----+--+----+ | Rcal | | | | 5M / | | o +->\ | o + | / | - V | \ | DMM (10M input, set Rcal - | | C1 | - using a low voltage o +--+ .01uF --- o so DMM reads V/10.) | | 2kV | | | / | | | Rm2 \ | | | 10M / | | | 2kV \ | | | | | | Cathode o----+-------+--------+----+

Rm1 and Rm2 are high voltage resistors. S1 is actually just another jumper and banana jack (the short red one in the photo, shown in the closed position) since a common switch would need to be capable of withstanding over 10 kV during starting. The purpose of S1 is to unload the HeNe laser power supply during starting. However, if your power supply has enough current capacity while starting (usually high compliance inverter designs as found in most bricks, not parasitic multipliers), it may be possible to keep the meter in the circuit all the time. Just make sure your components are adequately rated for the maximum starting voltage which may be present if a HeNe laser tube is not connected or simply refuses to start. The DMM will read 1/10th of the actual tube voltage. Even if the tube cuts out and tries to restart, the DMM should survive but I can offer no guarantees for your specific implementation! However, putting a series string of NE2 neon lamps across the meter would be good insurance - figure 90 V for each NE2 so add enough so that they will start conducting when the meter exceeds its full scale voltage.

I normally use this rig with an Aerotech PS2B HeNe laser power supply which has had its regulator bypassed. (See the section:Aerotech Model PS2B HeNe Laser Power Supply (AT-PS2B).) No matter what protection there is, semiconductors tend to blow themselves up to protect the fuse. :) And for testing there is really no need for great regulation. It has been installed in the case from an Aerotech LS4P laser (which is 3 to 4 inches longer than the PS2 case) so a small Variac fits snugly in one end to adjust tube current. It may be set low for 0.5 mW barcode scanner HeNe tubes or cranked up to an AC input of 140 VAC for dealing with hard-to-start tubes, or to drive any HeNe laser tube or head of up to at least 12 mW on the bench while monitoring current and voltage. (The modified PS2B is quite happy running at 140 VAC input all day but this may not be true of some other power supplies.) The combination of the PS2B, tapped ballast resistor, and metering system is my workhorse for testing HeNe lasers.

If you're characterizing a few thousand HeNe lasers of various sizes, there is at least one tester on the market designed to make your life easier (and pocketbook lighter!). TheVoltex, Inc. U-40 (about $600) can power virtually all HeNe lasers and includes current adjust, and voltage and current monitoring.

Testing a HeNe Laser Power Supply

Failure of a HeNe laser to lase could be due to a bad tube, bad power supply, bad connections, or you forgot to plug it into the wall socket!

If there is a continuous glow from the inside of the HeNe tube, the power supply is probably working properly though the current could be incorrect. However, this would result in reduced output power or excessive heating - but not a totally dead laser unless the current was more than 2 or 3 times too high. (In this extreme case, if the tube is good, there would likely be at least a flash of laser light from its output at power-on and/or power-off as the tube current passes through the normal operating range).

Where there is no sign of a discharge - even momentarily - the problem could be with the tube, wiring, or power supply.

If the laser is flashing or sputtering, or the current is way too high (based on measurements), the tube is either broken or its voltage requirements are outside the compliance range of the power supply at its present current setting. If the current is too high, the tube voltage is probably too low. If it flashes or sputters, the tube voltage may be too high. Either condition is very hard on power supplies and failure may not be far behind. So do not push your luck and find out what's wrong.

In either case, it would probably be a good idea to see the section:How Can I Tell if My Tube is Goodbefore getting into heavy troubleshooting of the power supply.

To determine if the power supply is working requires testing it for both the starting and operating voltage (and proper current if it includes an internal regulator). Of course, the easiest approach is to substitute a known working HeNe tube, but this is not always a viable option. If all that is desired is to determine if the power supply is not dead and no test equipment is available, see the procedure at the end of this section.

Before proceeding, for your own safety and the continued health of your test equipment, see the section: Making Measurements on HeNe Laser Power Supplies.

As an example, for a typical 1 mW HeNe tube requiring 3.5 mA at 1.4 kV, the load resistor (Rl) should be 400K ohms. The power dissipation at this operating point would be about 5 W. Use several lower wattage resistors in series (to handle the expected maximum voltage) to make up the required resistance for R1 with a total power dissipation of around 10 W.
Measure the voltage across Rs to determine current. The sensitivity will be 1 V/mA. Alternatively, simply put a 10 or 20 mA current meter across or in place of Rs. Power supply output voltage is then Vo = (Rl / Rs) * V(R2).

If the power supply has a current adjustment, see if this behaves as expected. A control that does nothing could indicate that the load resistor is sized incorrectly and the compliance range of the power supply is being exceeded (low or high).

In all cases, a defective regulator or control circuit could result in these faults as well.

Note: This example uses 20 NE2s - adjust this number for your particular expected power supply output.
Measure the voltage across Rs to determine current. The sensitivity will be 1 V/mA. Also measure the voltage across the right-most NE2 (IL20 in this circuit). Operating voltage is then: (75 * V(Rs).)+ (20 * V(IL20).)
This approach can also be used instead of the that using a variable resistor in the section: Selecting the Ballast Resistor Using a Dummy Load. Simply insert or remove individual NE2s as a means of evaluating the power supply's characteristics. However, see the caution in that section with respect to possible damage to the power supply.

Also see the sections: Selecting the Ballast Resistor and Starting Problems and Hard-to-Start Tubes.

HeNe Laser Power Supply Repair

Various types of HeNe laser power supplies may turn up in electronics surplus stores, junk yards, or buried under piles of other stuff in the back of your company or university lab storeroom.

WARNING: Just because these are often compact units doesn't mean they cannot be lethal. See the document: Safety Guidelines for High Voltage and/or Line Powered Equipment before working on any type of equipment which uses line voltage or produces high voltage. See the section:SAFETY when Dealing with HeNe Laser Power Supplies for specific precautions.

CAUTION: Make sure you discharge both the output of the power supply AND the HeNe tube itself with a high value power resistor (e.g., 100K consisting of a series string of 5, 20K, 2 W resistors to handle the voltage) before touching anything. Else, you may be in for a nasty surprise!

For much more information on the servicing of these types of devices, see the following (as appropriate for your power supply):

Repairing HeNe Laser Power Supply Bricks

For all AC-input bricks and DC-input bricks that don't respond to the following, see the info below from James Sweet.

DC-input HeNe laser power supply bricks:

Many DC-input bricks have an electrolytic filter capacitor directly across the input. These can go bad over time, especially if exposed to continuous high temperature, which is particularly true of systems like metrology lasers run 24/7 for years. A variety of symptoms are possible including: No output, weak start, low current, high current, erratic behavior, and excessive ripple in the output to the laser tube.

Since complete schematics for HeNe laser power supply bricks are exceedingly rare - basically non-existent except for what is here in the chapter:Complete HeNe Laser Power Supply Schematics - there is no way to know positively whether there is a filter capacitor at the input to a specific model brick. But most will have one or more close to the input. The most definitive test is to use an ESR (Effective Series Resistance) meter across the DC input leads. If there is a filter capacitor across the input and it is healthy, the reading will be under 1 ohm. But a high reading could simply mean that there is an EMI filter with a series inductor there before the filter.

So, the quickest test is to simply add an external filter capacitor with a value of 100 µF or more across the input and see if the symptoms change or go away. If the behavior improves but there are still issues, a larger capacitor may be required - or there are bad capacitors elsewhere or other bad parts.

For the specific case of the VMI (Voltage Multipliers Incorporated) HeNe laser power supply bricks used in HP/Agilent/Keysight 5517 and other metrology lasers, there is a 50 µF or larger filter capacitor directly across the DC input. The typical ESR for a working brick is between 0.1 and 0.6 ohms depending on the specific model and sample. Where a brick is misbehaving and the ESR is above 1 ohm, adding a filter capacitor externally may result in a cure. This is true in some cases even for a totally dead brick. In tests of more than a two dozen faulty VMI PS 373 bricks, nearly all had out of range ESR. A few responded to the external filter capacitor but most did not. However, it is not known if the high ESR was the original cause of the failure. It's also of note that bricks like this may work properly in a system because there are likely external filter capacitors present and close by, but may misbehave if powered from a something like a DC wall adapter with a long DC cable. For more info on (mostly) VMI bricks, see the chapter:Commercial Stabilized HeNe Lasers in the sections starting with: HP/Agilent 5517 Laser Construction and Common Problems with HP/Agilent 5517 Lasers. Or just search in that chapter for "VMI PS".

Other HeNe laser power supply bricks:

These include bricks that don't respond to the external filter capacitor, above, and all AC-input bricks since their filter capacitor is after the rectifier diodes and cannot be shunted externally. An ESR test probably will always show open due to the diodes of the bridge rectifier. So serious surgery is required:

(From: James Sweet.)

While generally considered to be completely un-repairable, I've found that it is possible to repair and even completely reverse engineer epoxy potted bricks using common tools and no nasty chemicals. To get started I would suggest having the following items on hand: Heat gun (the sort thing used to shrink heatshrink tubing, strip paint, thaw pipes, etc.), utility knife or box cutter, various flat blade screwdrivers, multimeter, soldering equipment, and the patience and curiosity of a cat. Other tools that are nice but not absolutely required include a set of dental picks, a putty knife, hot air pencil as used for surface mount rework, fine point permanent marker, magnifying lamp, bench vise, etc.

Getting to the bottom of the PCB:

The first step is to identify where the PCB is located. Usually the label is on the top but this is not always the case Look at the end of the brick where the wires exit. Normally the PCB will be on the long edge opposite of the wires. If the wires exit near the center look for a current adjust pot which will usually be mounted directly on the PCB. Failing that you will just have to start excavating carefully and see what you find, the PCB will be only a few mm from the surface of the epoxy as shown in Edge of HeNe Laser Power Supply Brick Showing Location of PCB and Components.

There are three basic types of casings that I've encountered so far. The first is a molded plastic box where the PCB has been stuffed down in it and Epoxy resin poured in, filling the box up to the top. With these you will have to cut around the perimeter of the area you wish to expose. Once you have cut all the way around it, apply heat to soften the bond peel away the plastic layer. The result is shown inBottom panel of HeNe Laser Power Supply Brick Removed. Take care not to use too much heat as many plastics will release stinky and probably toxic chemicals.

Others have a molded top shell with a panel glued over the bottom after resin has been poured over the PCB. You may have to cut around the perimeter of this to separate the glue, then the panel can be removed to expose the Epoxy. Some will peel off fairly easily, others are very well attached and may require heat. I've found that a stiff putty knife with a sharp edge works well to separate these, starting from the edge where the wires exit.

Lastly, my favorite type uses a separate panel made of thin glass Epoxy laminate similar to that used to make PCBs which are formed into a box around the PCB and filled with resin. These are nice because with some care the panels can be peeled away and glued back on after completing the repair, leaving a cosmetically nice result with little or no sign that it has been repaired. Apply heat and start to separate with a utility knife. Once it starts to come off, a putty knife can be used to finish the job. Don't get too carried away or you will break the panel and don't use *too* much heat or it will deform.

Once the Epoxy is exposed comes the fun part. Apply heat to a small section, holding the heat gun an inch or so away for several seconds. Don't be afraid to use plenty of heat, but if it starts to smoke, stop! Quickly before the Epoxy cools, dig in gently with a screwdriver taking care not to gouge the PCB and damage traces. Once it starts to separate it's usually pretty easy to work the screwdriver under it and peel it up in sections. See Start of Removal of Potting Compound from Under PCB in HeNe Laser Power Supply Brick. If it starts to harden, apply heat for a few seconds and it will soften up again. You may wish to expose the entire PCB, but if you have a good idea of where the problem is located this may not be necessary. A complete Epoxy-ectomy is shown in Complete Removal of Potting Compound from Under PCB in HeNe Laser Power Supply Brick.

Replacing defective parts:

There are two options here in many cases. Depending on the layout and the nature of the failure, it may be possible to simply tack on a replacement component on the bottom of the PCB. If the defective part is shorted it will have to be isolated. This is easy on a single sided PCB but may be much more difficult if double sided.

Personally I like to remove the defective part and replace it properly. If you are lucky and it's located near the edge of the PCB, you can excavate into the side and remove it. A hot air pencil is handy here, but a heat gun will work with some care. Scraps of cardboard, wood, or other material can be used to mask areas that you don't wish to melt. Heat the Epoxy to soften and start digging it out with small screwdrivers or picks. Go slowly and take care not to damage nearby components. If you can identify the nearby parts, it's worth measuring the value, otherwise you'll be looking at the mangled remains wishing you knew what it was. Once the repair is complete there are a number of options. It can be simply left exposed, but if it is in the high voltage section this may cause problems, these circuits were laid out assuming they would be potted in epoxy so spacing between adjacent components may not be adequate. Silicone caulk or Epoxy work well too, but make sure whatever you use is appropriate for high voltage. If in doubt, test it.

CAUTION: The HV capacitors in the output section can hold a charge for a shockingly :( :) long time. Discharge them before touching!

Replacing a Regulator Stack with Resistors

It is quite common to inherit a HeNe laser power supply which once had a linear regulator but all that is left is either a gaping hole or a bunch of shorted transistors. :( This may even happen with an AC line operated HeNe laser power supply using a potted high voltage module. If the regulation components exploded, there will probably be no output. If they shorted - probably most common - the current will either be too high with no regulation or the laser will be flashing due to insufficient ballast resistance. (A constant current regulator looks like a high resistance to the laser.) While the purists among us will insist on a faithful reconstruction, for many purposes, simply replacing the regulator with a few resistors will provide adequate performance.

Put a current meter set for 10 mA or more full scale in series with the HeNe tube cathode. Build up your stack from 10K to 25K, 1 to 2 W resistors. Start with about 50K ohms for each transistor that used to be in series as part of the regulator. Where the number of transistors is unknown, just start with 50K to 100K. Add or remove resistors to adjust the tube current to its rated value at normal line voltage. Within about 5 percent (e.g., 0.3 mA at 6.5 mA) should be chose enough. Err on the low side if the laser seems stable at this value. If a Variac is available, check for stability with respect to line voltage variations - the laser shouldn't drop out until the line voltage drops to below about 105 VAC (in the USA).

WARNING: Make sure your power supply capacitors are fully discharged before touching anything!

The efficiency of this setup if it originally had a linear regulator will be exactly equal to that of a proper regulator. There will just be no regulation with respect to AC line fluctuations. But with the added resistance of your stack, this won't be as bad as it would be with just a ballast resistor. Since you presumably won't be swapping HeNe tubes, regulation with respect to tube characteristics isn't that important.

An alternative is to drive the power supply with a variable input voltage and with the standard ballast, simply adjust it to provide the required current. This actually allows an otherwise useless power supply to drive a range of HeNe laser tubes or heads. As an example, a 12 VDC input supply originally designed for a 5 mW red HeNe (6.5 mA at 2 to 2.5 kV), could be set up to power laser tubes or heads from less than 1 mW (around 5 V in) to over 5 mW (around 10 V in) simply by driving it with a variable voltage from a DC-DC step-down converter (less the 1oneBay).AddaDigitalPanelMeter(alsoaround1 on eBay). Add a Digital Panel Meter (also around 1oneBay).AddaDigitalPanelMeter(alsoaround1 on eBay) with 1K ohm sense resistor to monitor current. This is much more flexible than the original. :-) "It's a feature, not a bug."

Using a HeNe Laser Power Supply with Failed Regulator

Normally, the current regulation of properly designed HeNe laser power supplies is extremely good. However, if abused by continuing to power a laser tube that is end-of-life and flickering or sputtering, or wired incorrectly, the internal regulator may fail, most likely turning into a short circuit. A known way of causing such a failure with a Laser Drive 103-23 is to connect power backwards. The only tell-tail without testing is that when then connected correctly, the tube will light extra bright and laser output power will be way down. Needless to say, this condition should not be allowed to continue. The tube will be damaged and the ballast will be fried.

Thus a power should always be tested for regulation if there is any chance it has been abused.

However, power supplies that have failed with shorted regulators can still be used by manually controlling the input voltage to achieve the desired current, or by adding an external feedback loop to do this. Using a fixed DC power supply, a 1adjustablestep−downconverteralongwitha1 adjustable step-down converter along with a 1adjustablestep−downconverteralongwitha1 Digital Panel Meter (DPM) can result in a nice instrumented variable HeNe laser power supply rig. See the section:External Regulator for Inverter Power Supply.

Here is some data for a couple tubes using a Laser Drive 103-23 that had been connected backwards (don't ask):

       LGR-7643   SP-088-2

Input (1 mW) (2 mW)

11 V 3.5 mA
13 V 4.0 mA 3.2 mA 14 V 3.5 mA 14.5 V 4.0 mA 15 V 4.5 mA 16 V 5.0 mA 5.0 mA 17 V 5.5 mA

Over part of the useful range, it may be necessary to momentarily increase the input to get the tube to start initially, and then drop it back to the correct value. A start button can be added for that purpose. ;-)

How high the input and thus output can be driven is probably not knowable. It will be limited both by the total power spec for the specific model and the voltage and current ratings of the components. For the Laser Drive 103-23, the maximum power is 7 watts - equivalent to 3 mA at 2.333 kV, 4 mA at 1.75 kV or 5 mA at 1.4 kV. However, the voltage spec is 1.5 kV max; 1.75 kV is probably OK but running at over 2 kV may be risky. So erring on the low side is recommended unless you have a box of fried expendible power supplies available. :)