Armscye & Armhole Measurement In Sewing - SewGuide (original) (raw)
An Armscye (also known as arm scythe) is the curved opening in a bodice where the sleeve is joined. Armhole curve is the full curved seam line where the sleeve is sewn in (used for sleeve matching).
- Why is armhole (armscye) measurement important in sewing?
- How much ease is needed in armhole measurement?
- OTHER METHODS to measure the armscye for drafting patterns
- How to draft the armscye
- How to use French curve scale to give shape to the armscye
This is armscye on a sleeve pattern. If it sounds to you like ‘arm’s eye’ it is no coincidence. That is the original term from which the term armscye evolved.
A fitting armhole has these features : Sits adequately higher under the arm, follows your body curve, has enough space for movement without gaping.
Why is armhole (armscye) measurement important in sewing?
Twisting seams, sleeves pull when you raise your arms, tops feel tight across the chest but don’t look tight, there are pull lines, shoulder discomfort, chest discomfort, armhole discomfort – all of these can be the result of incorrect armhole size and shape. (Shape is more important than size)
If the armhole is too shallow, deep, tight, or loose, the sleeve will pull, pucker, twist and even restrict movement. A correct armhole ensures a smooth, comfortable sleeve.
If you are a beginner, know that bad armholes feel worse in woven fabrics ; Knits hide bad armholes by stretching
Armhole shape matters more than size
Size controls circumference. Shape controls movement.
Bodies with identical measurements may need different armholes. Two armholes can measure the same size but behave completely differently depending on: Curve distribution, Front vs back balance, Angle of the lower curve. Deeper armholes feel more restrictive and Shallow armholes feel suffocating. So a balance is needed when you draw the pattern.
The armhole curve should trace the body’s contour from shoulder to underarm. Front and back curves are different and must be shaped independently
Bust and Back shaping and Shoulder seam placement and slope are very important things in getting an armhole shape correct.
Armhole depth is measured vertically, from the shoulder point straight down to the level of the armpit while the arm is relaxed. This measurement controls how low or high the armhole sits. For a sleeve to fit correctly, sleeve cap length must match the armhole curve.
To measure the armscye length on your body or an a bodice pattern, you should take a flexible ruler or string and measure the bodice armhole curve – first measure front armhole curve (from shoulder to side seam) and then measure the back armhole curve. Now, add both to get the total armscye length. Armhole straight, a measurement used in drafting patterns refers to the horizontal distance across the armhole area on a flat bodice.
For patternmaking, this is now my favourite method after reading about it in a reddit forum :
How much ease is needed in armhole measurement?
Typically ½″–1″ (1.25–2.5 cm) of ease is added, depending on the fabric you are using, the clothing you are sewing and also your sleeve design.
OTHER METHODS to measure the armscye for drafting patterns
In sewing, there are 5 ways of marking the armscye for bodice pattern
1. One method is to measure from the shoulder and neck joint to the armpit. This measurement is used to draft the armhole depth on the pattern. In the drawing given below the measurement A-B taken on the body and then is marked from the shoulder- neck joining point.
2. The other method is to measure the perimeter of your armhole. Start measuring with a tape measure from the shoulder tip point. Then go around the arm joint and back again to the same point. Half of that will be your armhole measurement for marking on a bodice pattern
3 Another method is to measure the body on the back from the nape point to the chest line just under the arm. From this measure, the slope of the shoulder should be reduced.
4 The next method is to take the bust round in inches. Divide this by 4 and minus 1.5 inches from this measurement ( depending on the ease you want)
So if my bust round is 36 inches When I divide this by 4 I get 9 ; Subtracting 1.5 inches gives you the armscye measure 7.5 inches.
Or Bust measurement divided by 6 plus 1.5 inch – which is essentially the same.
5 You can also go by a fixed armhole measurement based on your bust measurement /chest measurement. You can refer to the charts given below for these measurements. But these may not be the most accurate as these are obviously not your body measurement.
Armscye measurement for women’s bodice
A more fitting armhole
Bust round -Armhole measurement
28 inch – 4 3/4″
30 inch – 5
32 inch – 5 1/4″
34 inch – 5 1/2″
36 inch – 5 3/4″
38 inch – 6″
40 inch – 6 1/4″
42 inch – 6 1/2″
44-46 inch – 7″
48-50 inch- 7 1/2″
Armscye measurement for men’s bodices
How to draft the armscye
Once you have marked the armhole height you can draft the armsyce in two ways. One is to give a little deeper curve to the front armscye than for the armscye of the back bodice. The other way is to use the same curve for the front and back bodices.
Mark down straight from the shoulder tip to the armhole depth line
Mark the meeting point as J. Measure the distance from F-J
Take half of that
Mark this measure (ie 1/2 of F-J) diagonally from J . Mark this as K
Draw a curve touching the points I K & F. This is your back bodice armhole curve.
Front bodice armhole
Move 3/4 inches inside from point J to M. Mark diagonally 3/4 inches to N from M. Draw the front armhole line touching F N & I
Sleeveless armholes are slightly higher than sleeved ones
How to use French curve scale to give shape to the armscye
Keep the french curve on the spots you have marked so that the curved portion gives you the shape you need for the armscye.
For expensive garments, use muslin fitting to avoid problems in fit of armholes in the final garment.
Related posts : How to make pattern for a basic bodice ; How to make a sloper; Pattern making books -recommendations; Taking Body rise measnurement; What is Inseam measurement; How to sew a bodice with lining