Cognitive factors that predict on-sight and red-point performance in sport climbing at youth level (original) (raw)
Related papers
Frontiers in Psychology, 2020
In lead climbing, the ascent of the route can be defined as on-sight or redpoint. On-sight is the more challenging style since it demands greater physiological and psychological commitment. The differences between the two modes in advanced climbers have not been studied much. Two essential skills needed to optimize performance, in both on-sight and in red-point climbing, are route interpretation (RI) ability and movements sequence recall. Therefore, this study aimed to compare performance between on-sight and red-point ascent in advanced climbers and evaluate how a climber's RI ability and movement sequences recall might change before and after on-sight and red-point climbing. Methods: Eighteen advanced male climbers (age 29.2 ± 4.7 years, body mass 67.8 ± 3.6 kg, stature 175.2 ± 2.4 cm, best red-point and on-sight grades 7b+/8a and 7a+/7b+, respectively) were video-recorded during the route ascent in on-sight and red-point modes to evaluate performance and to measure static and dynamic action times. RI ability and movement sequence recall were assessed before and after each climb. Level of anxiety was evaluated via a self-report questionnaire. Heart rate (f H), lactate concentration, ([La − ]), and rating of perceived exertion (RPE) were detected during and after each climb. Results: Compared to on-sight, an improvement in performance was observed in a red-point climb: the ascent was faster (148.7 ± 13.6 s and 179.5 ± 12.5 s, respectively, P < 0.05), smoother (significant reduction in exploratory moves and in stops times, P < 0.05), less demanding physiologically (lower f Hpeak and [La − ] peak , P < 0.05), and psychologically (lower RPE, cognitive and somatic anxiety and higher self-confidence, P < 0.05). The RI ability was improved in red-point versus on-sight and, in the same mode, between pre and post ascent.
Section I -Kinesiology Neurocognitive Functioning of Sport Climbers
Sport climbing, included in the programme of the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games, is increasingly gaining in popularity as a method of physical and mental health enhancement. Studies show a positive relationship between climbing and improvement of neurocognitive functioning. The aim of this study was to determine the differences in neurocognitive indicators: time of testing, memory, and location between climbers and non-climbers. The sample comprised 30 sport climbers (15 males, 15 females; aged 25 ± 4 years) practicing climbing regularly for five years, and 30 non-climbing age-and sex-matched controls. The Tactual Performance Test (Halstead-Reitan Test Battery) was used to measure neurocognitive functions (tactile-spatial functions, motion coordination, kinesthetic abilities, learning, memory). Significant differences were found between sport climbers and controls in reference to time, memory, and location (p < 0.05). Climbers reached higher memory as well as location ratios and lower time ratios in comparison to controls. Different strategies used to complete the task between the two groups were observed. The neurocognitive functioning of sport climbers manifests itself in faster recognition and differentiation of tactile input and better spatial perception, tactile perception, and movement memory.
Features of tactical and psychological training models in sports climbing at youth level
Journal of Educational Sciences & Psychology, 2021
To enhance the Romanian climbers’ performance, an intervention on the tactical and psychological components of the training is needed. We believe that this intervention should be made from a young age. The objective of this paper is to highlight the current training models for sports climbing in the literature and provide a critical analysis on them, so that we can define some project-programmes for the training of young climbers. The systematic review of the literature has identified that the variables most correlated with climbing performance are: mental characteristics (personality traits, temperament, locus of control and tactics), technical characteristics (coordination and technical abilities) and physical characteristics (flexibility, fitness and efficiency). We have also observed how efficient some practical and methodological approaches are in climbing training.
A psychophysiological comparison of on-sight lead and top rope ascents in advanced rock climbers
Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports, 2012
Research suggests that lead climbing is both physiologically and psychologically more stressful than top rope climbing for intermediate performers. This observation may not be true for advanced climbers, who train regularly on lead routes and are accustomed to leader falls. The aim of this study was to compare the psychophysiological stresses of lead and top rope on-sight ascents in advanced rock climbers. Twenty-one climbers (18 men and three women) ascended routes near or at the best of their ability (22 Ewbank). Psychological stress was measured preclimb using the Revised Comparative State Anxiety Inventory (CSAI-2R). Plasma cortisol was sampled at six intervals. The volume of oxygen (VO 2) and heart rate (Hr) were measured throughout the climbs. No significant differences were found in self-confidence, somatic, or cognitive anxiety between the conditions lead and top rope. No significant differences in plasma cortisol concentration were found between any time points. No significant relationships were found between cortisol and any CSAI-2R measures. No significant differences were found between conditions for VO 2 or blood lactate concentration. During the lead climb, Hr was significantly elevated during the last part of the route. Findings suggest that advanced rock climbers do not find lead climbing to be more stressful than top rope climbing during an on-sight ascent.
International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, 2021
Route previewing has been established as a critical parameter in indoor climbing performance, as it could determine the success or failure in ascending the route. We addressed the effect of different types of previews on output climbing performance. Twenty-one advanced climbers (7b and 7c+ climbing grade) were required to complete 18 routes, rated at 6c, according to the French Rating Scale of Difficulty. Each climber previewed the route under three conditions: “No-previewing”, “video-model previewing”, and “real-model previewing”. Output climbing performance was assessed in terms of route completion. The results showed differences on output climbing performance between types of preview. Specifically, the climbers achieved more successful attempts at climbing to the “Top” of the wall when inspecting the route with the “real-model previewing” condition, compared to the other conditions of preview. On the contrary, the climbers displayed more failed attempts in climbing the route with the “on-sight” condition, compared to the “flash” styles (“video-model” and “real-model”). The preview of the route, including performance of a real/video-projected model manipulating climbing holds, seems to increase the opportunities to climb the boulder successfully, attuning climbers to information specifying ascending actions. Climbing coaches should reinforce the design of representative training, using flash styles, to promote movement solutions for route completion.
Current trends and the future progression of psychophysiology in climbing research
Psychophysiology "the study of relations between psychological manipulations and resulting physiological responses… to promote understanding of the relation between mental and bodily processes" Andreassi (2006; p1) In climbing: • Quantify the impact of stressors. • Monitor athletes to preempt chocking and performance slumps. • Assess the effectiveness of interventions • Understand stress-performance relationship 2 Key terms Stress "an ongoing process that involves individuals transacting with their environments, making appraisals of the situation they find themselves in, and endeavouring to cope with any issues that may arise" (Fletcher et al. 2009) Climbing Stressors The task and environment demands (Stimuli) associated with climbing performance Arousal "complex multifaceted blend of physiological and psychological activity in the organism that varies on a continuum from deep sleep to intense excitement" (Gould et al. 2002) Anxiety "feelings of insecurity which result because of a perceived inability to cope"
Anxiety–performance relationships in climbing: a process-oriented approach
Psychology of Sport and Exercise, 2003
Objectives: Two experiments were conducted to investigate manifestations of anxiety at the subjective, physiological, and behavioural level of analysis. Design: In Experiment 1 we investigated the manifestations of state anxiety at the first two levels by comparing low-and high-anxiety conditions during climbing. In Experiment 2 we explored behavioural differences under these conditions. Methods: We manipulated anxiety by using a climbing wall with routes defined at different heights (low and high). Participants were 13 and 17 novice climbers in Experiments 1 and 2, respectively (ages 19-30 years). We measured self-reported state anxiety, heart rate (Experiments 1 and 2), blood lactate concentration and muscle fatigue (Experiment 1), and climbing time and fluency of movements (Experiment 2). Results: At the level of subjective experience we found that when novices climbed a route high on a climbing wall they reported significantly more anxiety than when they traversed an identical route low on the climbing wall. At the physiological level, they exhibited significantly higher heart rates, more muscle fatigue, and higher blood lactate concentrations. The results of Experiment 2 showed that state anxiety also affected participants' movement behaviour, which was evidenced by an increased geometric index of entropy and by longer climbing times. Conclusions: Results indicated that anxiety indeed manifested itself at three levels. A possible explanation for the effects of anxiety that is also found in the literature is that a temporary regress may occur to a movement execution that is associated with earlier stages of motor learning.
Self-reported ability assessment in rock climbing
Journal of Sports Sciences, 2011
Level of ability within rock climbing is generally expressed in terms of a ''best ascent'', rated using various grading systems within the sport. The most common method of obtaining this information is via self-report. The aim of this study was to examine the validity of self-reported climbing grades. Twenty-nine competitive rock climbers (17 males, 12 females) were first asked to report their current (defined as within the last 12 months) best on-sight lead ascent grade (Aus/NZ). The participants then climbed a specifically designed indoor route, under on-sight conditions (one attempt, no route practice or preview), to obtain an assessed grade. The route increased in difficulty, and was such that the distance achieved by the climber corresponded to a particular grade. The mean (+standard deviation) self-reported and assessed grade was 22.6 + 3.4 and 22.0 + 3.0 (Aus/NZ) respectively. Despite slight over-and underestimations in males and females respectively, there was no statistically significant difference between self-reported and assessed on-sight climbing grades. The results of this study suggest that self-reported climbing grades provide a valid and accurate reflection of climbing ability.
The state of preparation in performance climbing
2019
This research has been carried out among climbing performers in Romania (a group of 60 climbers), starting from the desire to induce a state of preparation by watching a motivational short movie before performing a high difficulty route. The concept of preparation was related to the emotional impact of tonic or sensitive type (depending on the content of the movie) and the personality structure of the athletes, the conclusions drawn being in the area of optimization of performance by inducing an optimal state of preparation. Performance climbers can have two main attitudes to impact with emotional stimuli in the competitive environment: tonic versus sensitivity. We propose the study of the correlations between the personality structure of the athletes, the emotional impact on stimulation, respectively the quality of the prepared state of state, as the active regulatory status. The methodology included a batch of 60 climbers divided into two equal subgroups, before making a difficult...