Émile Rey (original) (raw)
Emile Rey (La Saxe, 1846 – Courmayeur, al descender el Dent du Géant, 24 de agosto de 1895) fue un guía de montaña valdostano. El Valle de Aosta pasó a manos italianas en el año 1860. Apodado «el príncipe de los guías», fue el más célebre de los guías de Courmayeur a finales del siglo XIX.
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| dbo:abstract | Émile Rey (* 21. August 1846 in La Saxe (heute Courmayeur) im Aostatal im Herzogtum Savoyen, damals Königreich Sardinien; † 24. August 1895 am Dent du Géant in Frankreich) war ein Bergführer aus dem italienischen Aostatal. Rey galt in seiner Zeit als „Prinz der Bergführer“ in der Umgebung von Courmayeur. Er war Ende des 19. Jahrhunderts einer der anerkanntesten und am meisten respektierten Bergführer seiner Region, weil er Erstbesteigungen in den höchsten und schwierigsten Bergen im Mont-Blanc-Massiv der Alpen erfolgreich bewältigte. Er gilt als einer der ganz Großen unter den Bergführern seiner Zeit („one of the greatest guides of his generation.“) (de) Emile Rey (La Saxe, 1846 – Courmayeur, al descender el Dent du Géant, 24 de agosto de 1895) fue un guía de montaña valdostano. El Valle de Aosta pasó a manos italianas en el año 1860. Apodado «el príncipe de los guías», fue el más célebre de los guías de Courmayeur a finales del siglo XIX. (es) Émile Rey, né à La Saxe, près de Courmayeur, en 1846 et mort le 24 août 1895 à la dent du Géant, est un guide de haute montagne valdôtain (la Vallée d'Aoste est devenue italienne en 1860). Surnommé « le prince des guides », Émile Rey était le plus renommé des guides de Courmayeur à la fin du XIXe siècle. (fr) Émile Rey (August 1846 – 24 August 1895) was an alpine mountain guide from Aosta Valley in Italy. Dubbed "the Prince of Guides" in Courmayeur, he was one of the most renowned guides at the end of the 19th century, making many first ascents on some of the highest and most difficult mountains in the Mont Blanc massif of the Alps. He has been described as "one of the greatest guides of his generation." (en) Émile Rey (pron. fr. AFI: [emil ʁɛ]), detto il principe delle guide (in francese, Prince des guides) (Courmayeur, 1846 – Dente del Gigante, 24 agosto 1895) è stato un alpinista italiano.È noto soprattutto per aver partecipato alle prime ascensioni dell'Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, dell'Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey e della arête de Peuterey. La prima salita della cresta di Peuterey del 1893, in particolare, è considerata da alcuni come la più grande impresa alpinistica del XIX secolo. (it) Émile Rey (ur. w 1846 r. w La Saxe, koło Courmayeur – zm. 24 sierpnia 1895 r. na Dent du Géant w masywie Mont Blanc) – włoski z Doliny Aosty. Nazywany „księciem przewodników”, był najbardziej renomowanym i uznanym przewodnikiem ostatniej ćwierci XIX w. w całym rejonie Courmayeur. Uważany za jednego z najwybitniejszych włoskich przewodników alpejskich, w swej działalności alpinistycznej koncentrował się głównie na masywie Mont Blanc. Jego życie spinały klamrą jedne z najwyżej cenionych celów wspinaczkowych w tym masywie: od , którą zdobył jako pierwszy w 1877 r. (wraz z lordem Wentworthem i J.-B. Bichem) po Dent du Géant, na którym zginął (podczas zejścia, prawdopodobnie wskutek zasłabnięcia) w roku 1895. Jego postać uhonorowano, nazywając jego imieniem przełęcz (wł. Col Émile Rey, 4027 m n.p.m.) w grani Brouillard po włoskiej stronie Mont Blanc, między a Picco Luigi Amedeo. Jego syn, (1878-1969) był również przewodnikiem wysokogórskim i wybitnym znawcą masywu Mont Blanc. (pl) Émile Rey (Courmayeur, 1846 - Dent du Géant, 24 de agosto de 1895) foi um guia de alta montanha do vale de Aosta (o Vale de Aosta tornou italiano em 1860). (pt) |
| dbo:thumbnail | wiki-commons:Special:FilePath/Emile_Rey_(1846_-_1895).jpg?width=300 |
| dbo:wikiPageExternalLink | http://geoportail.fr/url/7FcWpp http://www.residencecourmayeur.com https://archive.org/stream/pioneersofalps1859cunn/pioneersofalps1859cunn_djvu.txt%7Caccess-date=22 |
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| dbp:author | J. P. Farrar (en) Baumann on Rey (en) C.D. Cunningham 1888 (en) C.D. Cunningham, 1888 (en) Mrs Aubrey Le Blond, 1903. (en) |
| dbp:birthDate | August 1846 (en) |
| dbp:birthPlace | La Saxe, Courmayeur, Kingdom of Sardinia (en) |
| dbp:deathDate | 1895-08-24 (xsd:date) |
| dbp:deathPlace | Dent du Géant, France (en) |
| dbp:firstascents | Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Peuterey Ridge, Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, Aiguille de Talèfre (en) |
| dbp:knownfor | First ascents around Courmayeur (en) |
| dbp:name | Émile Rey (en) |
| dbp:occupation | Mountain guide, joiner, carpenter (en) |
| dbp:text | Rey alone and unroped succeeded in turning a very difficult overhanging rock, and proceeded along the arete to a point which has never before been reached. (en) His reputation as one of the first rock-climbers in the Alps, and the position he holds among other guides, are the result of his own aptitude and ability, the great enthusiasm he has for his profession, and the energy and earnestness with which he pursues it. (en) He always draws a most distinct line between those of the higher and those of the lower grades in his craft. One morning, at the Montanvert, we were watching the arrival of the 'polyglots,' as an ingenious person once christened that crowd composed of nearly every nationality, who may daily be seen making their toilsome pilgrimage from Chamonix. Among them was an Englishman, who had first provided himself with green spectacles, a veil, and socks to go over his patent leather shoes, and who only wanted a guide to complete his preparations. Going up to Rey, and pointing first to the Mer de Glace, and then to the Chapeau, he inquired "Combiang?" " Voilà, Monsieur," replied Rey, taking off his hat, and indicating with his left hand a group of rather poor specimens of the distinguished Société des Guides, " Voilà les guides pour la Mer de Glace; moi, je suis pour 'la Grande Montagne.'" (en) In August 1880 Émile Rey and Andreas Maurer were guiding an English 'climber', who wanted to reach the summit of the Aiguille du Plan by means of the steep ice slopes [of the Glacier du Plan] above the Chamonix Valley. After step-cutting all day, they reached a point where to go on was impossible, and retreat looked hopeless. To add to their difficulties, bad weather came in with snow and intense cold. They had no alternative but to remain exactly where they were for the night, and, if they survived it, to attempt the descent of the almost precipitous ice-slopes they had with such difficulty ascended. Through the long hours of the bitter night, they stood, roped together, without daring to move, on a narrow ridge, hacked level with their ice-axes. They believed their case was hopeless. Although Andreas Maurer's own back was frozen hard to the ice-wall against which he leaned, and in spite of driving snow and numbing cold, he opened his coat, waistcoat and shirt, and through the long hours of the night he held, pressed against his bare chest, the half-frozen body of the traveller who had urged him to undertake the expedition. The morning broke, still and clear, and at six o'clock, having thawed their stiffened limbs in the warm sun, they commenced the descent. Probably no finer feat in ice-work has ever been performed than that accomplished by Maurer and Rey on that day. Had the bad weather continued, the party could not possibly have descended alive. It then took ten hours of continuous down-climbing on steep ice to reach safety, after eighteen hours of continuous effort without food on the previous day, followed by a night of horrors such as few can realise. (en) The evolution of these expeditions, among the greatest ever carried out in the Alps, is exceedingly interesting, nor will the names of the greatest guides who rendered their employers such brilliant service be readily forgotten, least of all that of the Italian, Émile Rey, who played such a leading role in the expeditions of 1880, 1885 and 1893. (en) |
| dbp:updated | 2015-12-19 (xsd:date) |
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| dcterms:subject | dbc:People_from_Courmayeur dbc:Alpine_guides dbc:1846_births dbc:1895_deaths dbc:Italian_mountain_climbers |
| gold:hypernym | dbr:Guide |
| rdf:type | dbo:Book |
| rdfs:comment | Emile Rey (La Saxe, 1846 – Courmayeur, al descender el Dent du Géant, 24 de agosto de 1895) fue un guía de montaña valdostano. El Valle de Aosta pasó a manos italianas en el año 1860. Apodado «el príncipe de los guías», fue el más célebre de los guías de Courmayeur a finales del siglo XIX. (es) Émile Rey, né à La Saxe, près de Courmayeur, en 1846 et mort le 24 août 1895 à la dent du Géant, est un guide de haute montagne valdôtain (la Vallée d'Aoste est devenue italienne en 1860). Surnommé « le prince des guides », Émile Rey était le plus renommé des guides de Courmayeur à la fin du XIXe siècle. (fr) Émile Rey (August 1846 – 24 August 1895) was an alpine mountain guide from Aosta Valley in Italy. Dubbed "the Prince of Guides" in Courmayeur, he was one of the most renowned guides at the end of the 19th century, making many first ascents on some of the highest and most difficult mountains in the Mont Blanc massif of the Alps. He has been described as "one of the greatest guides of his generation." (en) Émile Rey (pron. fr. AFI: [emil ʁɛ]), detto il principe delle guide (in francese, Prince des guides) (Courmayeur, 1846 – Dente del Gigante, 24 agosto 1895) è stato un alpinista italiano.È noto soprattutto per aver partecipato alle prime ascensioni dell'Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, dell'Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey e della arête de Peuterey. La prima salita della cresta di Peuterey del 1893, in particolare, è considerata da alcuni come la più grande impresa alpinistica del XIX secolo. (it) Émile Rey (Courmayeur, 1846 - Dent du Géant, 24 de agosto de 1895) foi um guia de alta montanha do vale de Aosta (o Vale de Aosta tornou italiano em 1860). (pt) Émile Rey (* 21. August 1846 in La Saxe (heute Courmayeur) im Aostatal im Herzogtum Savoyen, damals Königreich Sardinien; † 24. August 1895 am Dent du Géant in Frankreich) war ein Bergführer aus dem italienischen Aostatal. (de) Émile Rey (ur. w 1846 r. w La Saxe, koło Courmayeur – zm. 24 sierpnia 1895 r. na Dent du Géant w masywie Mont Blanc) – włoski z Doliny Aosty. Nazywany „księciem przewodników”, był najbardziej renomowanym i uznanym przewodnikiem ostatniej ćwierci XIX w. w całym rejonie Courmayeur. Jego syn, (1878-1969) był również przewodnikiem wysokogórskim i wybitnym znawcą masywu Mont Blanc. (pl) |
| rdfs:label | Émile Rey (de) Emile Rey (es) Émile Rey (it) Émile Rey (fr) Émile Rey (pt) Émile Rey (pl) Émile Rey (en) |
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