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Precipitated by unexpected permission from Tibet, the 1935 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition was planned at short notice as a preliminary to an attempt on the summit of Mount Everest in 1936. After exceptionally rancorous arguments involving the Mount Everest Committee in London, Eric Shipton was appointed leader following his successful trekking style of expedition to the Nanda Devi region in India in 1934. Compared with what had gone before and what followed it was a small, low-cost affair. The approach was from the north side of the mountain and the climbing was planned to be after the monsoon. The monsoon was unusually late that year and, beset by the weather and in difficult conditions of snow, little was achieved regarding the summit. However, a very large number of lesser peaks were climbed for the first time and a southern route up the Western Cwm was identified as a possible line of approach if Nepal could ever be persuaded to change its policy of not admitting climbers. Eventually, the expedition would have considerable influence on post-war British efforts on Everest from Nepal, with Shipton himself leading the 1951 southern reconnaissance. (en) Британская разведывательная экспедиция на Джомолунгму 1935 года — сравнительно малочисленная и низкобюджетная альпинистская экспедиция, основной задачей которой было не восхождение на вершину Джомолунгмы, а реконгносцировка окружающей местности для подготовки экспедиции следующего года. Руководил экспедицией (англ. Eric Shipton), назначенный Комитетом Джомолунгмы. Экспедиция подошла к Джомолунгме с северной стороны и планировала подниматься на неё осенью, после окончания сезона муссонов. Но в 1935 году этот сезон продлился дольше обычного. Из-за погодных и снеговых условий участники экспедиции не добились серьёзных успехов на самой Джомолунгме. Но, при этом, экспедиция совершила множество первовосхождений на более низкие горные пики в том регионе. Был предварительно разведан южный маршрут восхождения, проходящий через Долину молчания, и такой маршрут был признан проходимым при условии, что Непал согласится допустить иностранных альпинистов. Результаты работы этой экспедиции оказались значимыми для послевоенных британских экспедиций на Джомолунгму; тот же Эрик Шиптон в 1951 году возглавил ещё одну британскую разведывательную экспедицию на Джомолунгму, которая уже смогла пройти по южному маршруту восхождения. (ru) |
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http://images.rgs.org/search_.aspx%3FeventID=26 http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/~alpinejo/Contents/Contents_1995_files/AJ%201995%201-14%20Warren%20Everest%201935.pdf%23search=%22eric%20shipton%201935%22%7Caccessdate=20 https://archive.org/stream/mounteverestreco00howa%7Caccessdate=1 https://web.archive.org/web/20150220130336/https:/images.rgs.org/search_.aspx%3FeventID=26 https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/08/1/the-mount-everest-reconnaissance-1935/ https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/09/2/survey-on-the-mount-everest-reconnaissance-1935/%7Caccessdate=19 https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/35/6/the-mount-everest-reconnaissance-1935-2/%7Cref=none |
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Precipitated by unexpected permission from Tibet, the 1935 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition was planned at short notice as a preliminary to an attempt on the summit of Mount Everest in 1936. After exceptionally rancorous arguments involving the Mount Everest Committee in London, Eric Shipton was appointed leader following his successful trekking style of expedition to the Nanda Devi region in India in 1934. Eventually, the expedition would have considerable influence on post-war British efforts on Everest from Nepal, with Shipton himself leading the 1951 southern reconnaissance. (en) Британская разведывательная экспедиция на Джомолунгму 1935 года — сравнительно малочисленная и низкобюджетная альпинистская экспедиция, основной задачей которой было не восхождение на вершину Джомолунгмы, а реконгносцировка окружающей местности для подготовки экспедиции следующего года. Руководил экспедицией (англ. Eric Shipton), назначенный Комитетом Джомолунгмы. (ru) |
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