What Henry Matthews Saw in Rome in 1817-1818 (original) (raw)

Rome in the Footsteps of an XVIIIth Century Traveller

about Rome: Henry Matthews (John Evelyn in 1687 and an etching he made for a friend)

Born in 1789, Henry Matthews was educated at Eton and then became a fellow of Kings College Cambridge. He was forced to leave England in 1817 for the continent as a result of bad health and on his return published "Diary of an Invalid". This book was so popular on its publication in 1820 that it was already into its third edition by 1822. Having previously been called to the bar, Matthews was appointed advocate-fiscal of Ceylon in 1821 and continued in this position until he was promoted to the position of judge in 1827. However, he was not to hold this position for long, dying in Ceylon in 1828. Matthews, the author of "The Diary of an Invalid," was in Italy in 1817 and 1818. His tour, which embraced also Portugal, Switzerland, and France, was taken in pursuit of health. He was a man of considerable cultivation and scholarship, sharp faculties of observation, a quick sense both of the beautiful and the ludicrous, and with decided, but not excessive, English prejudices. His journal betrays at times the languor, as well as the sensitiveness, of ill-health. Its chief merits, which gave immediate and extensive popularity, consist in its light, airy, and graceful style, its natural, but not offensive, revelations of personal feeling, and its gentlemanly tone. He is never profound or original, but, on the other hand, never labored or affected. The records of the hour and the impressions made by every object and experience are honestly set down. George Stillman Hillard - Six Months in Italy in 1847-1848 You may wish to see the grave of Devereux Plantagenet Cockburn, a young gentleman, born in Herefordshire, England in 1829, who died in Rome in 1850 at the age of 21 "He was most precious to his parents who had sought his health in many foreign climes".

*** Vasi's Guide** *** Lodgings in Via del Corso** *** Colonna Gardens** *** Colle Oppio (Terme di Traiano)** *** Floods** *** Circo di Caracalla** *** S. Pietro** *** Fontane di Piazza S. Pietro** *** Christmas and Cribs** *** S. Maria degli Angeli** *** Beatrice Cenci** *** Statue of Pompey** *** Statues in Piazza del Quirinale** *** Fontana di Trevi** *** Mostra dell'Acqua Felice** *** Pantheon** *** Rupe Tarpea** *** Last Judgment** *** The Bonaparte in Rome**

| Vasi's GuideThere are two modes of seeing Rome, - the topograhical, - followed by Vasi; who parcels out the town into eight divisions, and jumbles every thing together, - antiquities, churches, and palaces, - if their situation be contiguous; - and the chronological, - which would carry you regularly from the house of Romulus, to the palace of the reigning Pontiff. The first mode is the most expeditious, and the least expensive ; - for even if the traveller walk a-foot, the economy of time is worth considering; - and, after all that can be urged in favour of the chronological order, on the score of reason, Vasi's plan is perhaps the best. For, all that is worth seeing at all, is worth seeing twice. Vasi's mode hurries you through every thing, but it enables you to select and note down those objects that are worthy of further examination, and these may be afterwards studied at leisure. Of the great majority of sights, it must be confessed, that all we obtain for our labour is, - the knowledge that they are not worth seeing; - but this is a knowledge that no one is willing to receive upon the authority of another, and Vasi's plan offers a most expeditious mode of arriving at this truth, by one's own proper experience. His plan is indeed too expeditious, for he would get through the whole town, with all its wonders, ancient and modern, - in eight days! This might suit young Rapid exactly, but I am content to follow the course he has chalked out, at a more leisurely pace. As a guide to Rome, Vasi's book is worth all the books of travels put together. It is all that it professes to be, and no more, - a mere catalogue; but it is comprehensive and accurate. There is nothing to direct the taste or influence the judgment; - but a traveller should observe for himself, and, it is much better that he should not see through the eyes of others. | | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | Lodgings in Via del CorsoWe established ourselves at No. 43, Via degli Otto Cantoni, Corso. This situation is bad. The Corso is the Bond-street of Rome; - but it is also the Billingsgate. There are two fish- stalls under my window, the people belonging to which commence their vociferations as soon as it is light. There is, however, at least, more variety in these cries than in the perpetual "All alive ho!" of London. The Italian fish-monger displays all the humour he is master of to get rid of his stock, and he will sometimes apostrophize his stale mullet with ludicrous effrontery; - "Pesce 'cosa fate? Pesce! state chete .'" But the worst objection to our lodgings is their height. We are on the quarto piano; - a hundred and four steps from the ground - though this objection relates only to convenience; for it is by no means mauvais ton in Rome, to live in the upper story, which does not at all answer to our garret. Here, - your approach to heaven does not in the least detract from your gentility. | | Colonna Gardens It is rather the quality of what remains, than the quantity, that impresses one with an idea of the grandeur and magnificence of ancient Rome. There is the fragment of a cornice, lying in the gardens of the Colonna Palace, which looks as if it had been brought from the land of Brobdingnag (Brobdingnag is a fictional land, which is occupied by giants, in Jonathan Swift's 1726 satirical novel Gulliver's Travels); - for no pillars of present existence could support an entablature of such gigantic proportions, as that of which this cornice must have formed a part. | | [Colle Oppio (Terme di Traiano)](Vasi33a.htm#Terme di Traiano)The whole of this region, - comprehending all that remains of the residence of the emperors, and the golden house of Nero, - is now a desert, full of ruins, and fragments of temples, and baths, - presenting an awful picture of fallen greatness. The spot is beautiful, and commands a fine view of Rome. The soil seems rich, if one may judge from the crops of cabbages and artichokes, which it is now made to produce. Great part, however, of this vast tract is covered with wild brush-wood, where you may easily lose yourself if you will. In my last stroll through this wilderness, I encountered a Fox, who paused for a moment to stare at me; - as if he were doubting which of the two was to be considered as the intruder. This Fox seems to be the genius of the place, and delights to shew himself to all travellers. | | FloodsDec. 21st. The Tiber has been very differently described by different writers. Some have been able to find in it, nothing better than a muddy ditch; while others have exalted it to an equality with the finest rivers in Europe. The first sight of it has, I believe, generally occasioned a feeling of disappointment. But, when we come to admeasurement we find, that at the Pons Aelius, - now the Ponte S. Angelo, - the breadth is about 212 English feet. This is the narrowest point. At the Pons Milvius, - now the Ponte Molle, - the breadth increases; and two miles above Rome, the river is nearly twice as broad as it is within the walls. This contraction of the stream within the town, will be a sufficient explanation of the destructive inundations, which have taken place at various periods. | | [Circo di Caracalla](Vasi59b.htm#Circo di Caracalla)Caracalla's Circus, as it is called, rests on very doubtful authority. There is a coin of Caracalla's, with a circus on the reverse side ; - here is a circus that wants an owner ; - how easy the inference then, that it must have been Caracalla's! It has suffered so little alteration from time, that the whole shape and extent, are as distinct as they could have been 1,500 years ago. | | S. Pietro St. Peter's is a spectacle that never tires; - you may visit it every day, and always find something new to admire. Then, - its temperature is delightful; - after starving in the cold and comfortless galleries of the Vatican, it is a luxury indeed to enjoy the mild and genial air in the interior of St. Peter's; and I am told, the church is as pleasantly cool in summer, as it is comfortably warm in winter. The fact is, the walls are so thick, and it is so wholly free from damp, that the air within is not affected by that without; so that, like a well-built cellar, it enjoys an equability of temperature all the year round. | | [Fontane di Piazza S. Pietro](Vasi27.htm#The Fountains)The fountains are magnificent. Christina, Queen of Sweden, thought they were made to play in honour of her visit, and begged they might cease; -at least so says the guide,- but this is the kind of story, which is told of every royal head down to Prince Leboo (one of the first people from the Pacific Islands to visit Great Britain); who, when he first entered London, thought it was lighted up, as a particular compliment to him. | | Christmas and Cribs25th. Christmas day. The night preceding this day of Christian rejoicing, is passed in the exercises of religion. Every thing is in motion; - processions of priests, and pilgrims, and women fill the streets; - the world of fashion follows in the same track; - while the peasantry from the country, arrayed in their holiday clothing, which, among the women particularly, is very showy and splendid, with much of scarlet and gold, flock into Rome - and the churches brilliantly lighted up, are crowded to excess during the whole of the night. (..) Theatrical representations are got up to commemorate the Nativity. Some show of the kind is prepared at all the churches, and the people flock from one to the other, to gaze, admire, and leave their Christmas offerings. The most popular and attractive spectacle is at the Araceli church; - for the Bambino there is the production of a miracle, and is said to have been dropped from heaven. Part of the church is fitted up like a theatre, with canvass scenes, canvass clouds, and canvass figures of the Virgin, - the shepherds, - the wise men, - the ox, - and the ass; - all carefully painted with due attention to stage effect. The miraculous Bambino, splendidly accoutred, is placed in the centre of the stage, which is brilliantly illuminated, and offerings of fruit and nosegays appear in great profusion. | | [S. Maria degli Angeli](Vasi35.htm#The Sundial)All the rest of the baths have been entirely dismantled of their magnificent columns and splendid marbles; but the great hall of these, the Pinacotheca, as it was called, - has been converted into a church by Michael Angelo; and the superb granite columns, each hewn out of a single block, 43 feet in height, still remain as they stood in the days of Diocletian; supporting the ancient entablature, which is very rich, and in the highest preservation. This magnificent hall is now the church of S. Maria degli Angeli; - the work of Michael Angelo. The form of the church is the Greek cross; so much more favourable than the Latin, for displaying at one coup d'ceil all the grandeur of the building. This church shews what St. Peter's would have been, if Michael Angelo's plan had been followed; and it is by far the finest church in Rome, - except St. Peter's, which must always be incomparable. | | Beatrice Cenci In another wing is poor Beatrice Cenci, by Guido; - taken the night before her execution. It is a charming countenance; - full of sweetness, innocence, and resignation. Her step-mother hangs near her, by whose counsel, and that of her confessor, she was instigated to prevent an incest, by the "sacrifice" of her father; - but that, which she thought a sacrifice, was converted by her enemies into a "murder" - and she lost her head, by the hand of the executioner. | | Statue of PompeyThe great curiosity here, is the colossal statue of Pompey; which is said to be the very statue, at the base of which, - "Great Caesar fell;" - though the objection to a naked heroic statue, as the representative of a Roman senator, is, perhaps, fatal to its identity; - and then, the holding the globe in his hand, is not in republican taste; - this action speaks the language of a master of the world, and brings the statue down to the days of the empire. But this does not solve the difficulty ; and if we determine that it cannot be Pompey, we shall be again at a loss to find an owner for it amongst the emperors. | | Statues in Piazza del QuirinaleIn the square before the palace, are the marble horses with their attendant figures, which some suppose to be Castor and Pollux; - while others tell you, that the one is a copy from the other, and that it is the representation of Alexander and Bucephalus. When there is so little to fix a story, it is more reasonable to suppose, that no story was intended. If we may believe the inscriptions (..) they are the work of Phidias and Praxiteles. They are full of spirit and expression; - but, are not the men out of proportion? They appear better able to carry the horses, than the horses them. | | Fontana di TreviThe fountain of Trevi is, perhaps, the most magnificent. - It is here that Corinne came, to enjoy her own contemplations by moon-light, when she was suddenly startled by seeing the reflection of Oswald in the water. I doubt whether this could have happened ; - it is certainly a glorious scene by moon-light, - but the basin of water is always in a ruffled, troubled state, from the cascades that tumble into it; which prevent it from reflecting any object distinctly. | | [Mostra dell'Acqua Felice](Vasi148.htm#Acqua Felice)The design of the fountain of Acqua Felice is admirable. Moses is striking the rock in the desert, and the water obeys his wand. The figure of Moses is colossal, and very spirited; and, if ever a colossal statue can be rendered pleasing, it is in some such situation as this. | | PantheonThe open sky-light, communicating at once with the glorious firmament, and letting in a portion of the great vault of the heavens, produces a sublime effect. It is as if it were the eye of the Divinity, - imparting light and life, - and penetrating the most secret thoughts of those that repair to his altar. | | Rupe TarpeaIt is not easy to determine the exact site of the Tarpeian Rock; - or, at least, of that part of it from whence criminals were flung; - and, when you have ascertained the spot, as nearly as it can be done, you will be more disappointed than by any thing else in Rome. Where shall we find any traces of Seneca's description of it? (..) There is absolutely nothing at all of all this, - the only precipice that remains, is one of about thirty feet, from the point of a wall, where you might leap down on the dung-mixen in the yard below, without any fear of broken bones. | | Last Judgment The keeping of the picture is admirable, and all is in subordination to the figure of the Saviour. Nothing can be more sublime than the action of this figure, - delivering the dreadful sentence of condemnation - "Depart - ye accursed, into everlasting fire !" By the way; I am obliged to an artist for pointing out to me what, I think, would not easily be perceived; - that the Saviour is sitting down. The picture has been so much injured by time and cleaning, that, as the light now falls on it, the figure appears to be standing up. | | The Bonaparte in RomePrincess (Gabrielli di) Prossedi is an amiable and interesting woman. She is the eldest daughter of Lucien Buonaparte by a former wife. (..) The Buonaparte family muster strongly at Rome. Madame M�re is said to be immensely rich; Louis has bought a large tract on the Palatine Hill; and Lucien has a spacious palace in the Via Condotti. Whatever his political sins may have been, his domestic life is irreproachable. He lives in the bosom of his family, all the branches of which assemble in the evening at his house, which is open also to strangers, who have been properly introduced to him. His wife must once have been a most beautiful woman, and she still retains all that fascination of manner which is the best part of beauty. |

#### Travellers covered in this section

*** Introductory page** *** Gregory Martin's "Roma Sancta", a description of Christian Rome in 1581** *** Fynes Moryson's An Itinerary: Containing His Ten Years Travel .. in Italy .. in 1594** *** John Evelyn's Diary and Correspondence related to his stay in Rome in 1644** *** Francis Mortoft's Journal of his travels in France and Italy in 1659** *** John Ray's Observations (..) made in a journey through part of (..) Italy in 1663** *** Richard Lassels' The Voyage of Italy, or a Compleat Journey through Italy in ca 1668** *** Joseph Addison's Remarks on several parts of Italy, in the years 1701, 1702, 1703** *** Jonathan and Jonathan Richardson's Account of Some of the Statues, etc. in Italy - 1722** *** Edward Wright's Observations made in France, Italy &c. in the years 1720, 1721 and 1722.** *** Excerpts from John Dyer's The Ruins of Rome written in 1740** *** Thomas Gray's Letters from France and Italy in 1739-1741** *** James Boswell's Letters on the Grand Tour in 1765** *** Tobias Smollett's Travels through France and Italy in 1765** *** John Moore's View of Society and Manners in Italy (in 1775) - publ. 1781** *** John Chetwode Eustace's Classical Tour of Italy (in 1802) - publ. 1813** *** Joseph Forsyth's Remarks on Antiquities, Arts, and Letters in Italy in 1802-1803** *** John Cam Hobhouse's Dissertations on the Ruins of Rome in 1818** *** Henry Matthews' Diary of an Invalid (in 1817-1818)** *** Anna Jameson's Diary of an Ennuy�e (in 1821-1822) - publ. 1826** *** Sir Charles Fergusson's Travel Notes a Journey Through Italy in 1824-1825** *** William Hazlitt's Notes of a Journey Through France and Italy in 1824-1825** *** Samuel Rogers' Italy - publ. in 1830 with illustrations by J.M. William Turner** *** Hans Christian Andersen's The Improvisatore - 1834 (Engl. translation 1845)** *** George Stillman Hillard's Six Months in Italy in ca 1847-1848**

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