What Francis Mortoft Saw in Rome in 1659 (original) (raw)

Rome in the Footsteps of an XVIIIth Century Traveller

about Rome: Francis Mortoft (John Evelyn in 1687 and an etching he made for a friend)

The journal of Francis Mortoft's travels through France and Italy in the years 1658-1659 is preserved (..) at the British Museum. Nothing definite has been discovered about Mortoft, although it seems likely that he was a young man. (..) The journal itself is an honest, straightforward narrative of a typical Grand Tour, with not a few touches of shrewdness and humour which raise it above the average travel-diary of the period. The detailed description of Rome, where Mortoft and his companions spent three months, would alone justify the printing of the journal. (..) Rome at that time was becoming thickly populated, in spite of the ravages of the plague which had attacked the city in 1656, and was one of the most brilliant intellectual resorts in Europe - a world wonderfully complete within itself - and the travellers were enchanted by it. (..) Mortoft rode into the city on 27 December, 1658 and on 27 March, 1659, for some unexplained reason, he left Rome in a great hurry. We may be sure that Mortoft departed with something like real regret, not because the city was Rome, but because it was a busy place full of odd sights and beautiful music, and alive with movement. Malcolm Letts - Francis Mortoft: His Book (which was first published in 1925). Excerpts from Francis Mortoft's Journal of his Travels, making reference to his stay in Rome.

*** [Queen Christina of Sweden](#Queen Christina)** *** Campidoglio: statue of a lion** *** The Pope at the Quirinale** *** [Piazza S. Pietro](#Piazza S. Pietro)** *** [Ara Coeli](#Ara Coeli)** *** Chiesa del Ges�** *** Terme di Caracalla** *** [Villa Peretti](#Villa Peretti)** *** [Santa Costanza](#Santa Costanza)** *** [Ash Wednesday](#Ash Wednesday)** *** [S. Paolo alle Tre Fontane](#Tre Fontane)** *** [Oratorio del SS. Crocifisso](#Oratorio del SS. Crocifisso)** *** Chiesa Nuova and Castrati singers (eunuchs)** *** Farewell to the Music of Rome**

| [Queen Christina of Sweden](Storia25.html#Alexander VII)January the 1st. We went to the Pallace of the Queene of Swethland, which is close by the Pope's Pallace, and belongs to Cardinal Mazarine, bought by him of Cardinal Bentivoglio. Here wee saw her enter into her Coach and followed her to the [Jesuits Church](Vasi135.htm#Chiesa del Ges�) to see her at Masse, where I stood close by her, and had a very perfect view of her, seeming to be a woman of A great spirit and majesticke Countenance, and also somewhat handsome. She was in a Velvet gowne and in her haire. I afterwards saw her led by a Jesuite into her Coach to whome she seemed very pleasant and merry. (..) January the 7th, wee went to the Queene of Sweedland's Pallace, where wee saw her in her chamber converse with many Gentlemen that came to heare Musicke that night. It being her custome every Wensday night to have the best Muscitianers at her Pallace, she being much delighted in Musicke. She is a Woman but of a low stature, yet of a very manly Countenance, and, by all Relation, one of the greatest wits and spirit[s] in this Age, her whole delight and pleasure being to converse with Men of Witt and spirit, not caring for the Company of Women. Here she was very merry, holding discourse sometymes with one man, and sometymes with another, so that the Melody of the Musicke could bee but little observed, in regard of her continual talking and walking up and downe. (..) At present the report goes that she is much out of the Pope's favour, and the Italians doe not so much respect [her] as when she came first to Rome; yet she alwayes seemes to be very merry and jocond, noe adversity being able to daunt her, being extreamly ambitious and desirous to live in all the Pomp and splendor that any Earthly person can desire. | | --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | Campidoglio: statue of a lionIn this place also is the statue of A Lyon having a horse in his mouth, and was found under ground, being made in the Romans tyme, a piece for the excellency of the workemanship much esteemed and for which the king of Spaine offered 10,000 Crownes, and upon this regard the Lyon is his Armes and a horse without a Bridle is the Armes of Naples, he supposing that this statue may be a prophesye of his Predecessors conquering the Kingdome of Naples, as this Lyon did the horse. | | The Pope at the QuirinaleJanuary the 6th, Being Twelfth Day, Mr. Hare, Mr Stanley and my selfe went to the Pope's Pallace to behold him in all his greatnesse, where wee saw some 35 Cardinals enter Into the Pallace one after another. Every Cardinal having a Gentleman before him to carry a great silver Mace, and many Gentlemen and attendants following, where followed 2 English Lords (My Lord Candisy and my Lord Rosse Commons) Cardinal Barbarin, in regard he is esteemed to be the Protector of the English here in Rome. After this wee saw all the Cardinals enter in one after another into the Pope's Publique Chappel to heare Masse, and after all were entered then came the Pope ([Alexander VII](Storia25.html#Alexander VII)) with sound of Trumpett, in the greatest state and Pomp that possibly the greatest man uppon Earth can desire. He had a triple Crowne upon his head, but not that where with he was crowned, and seemed to mee to be a very handsome old man. He had a very great Diamant on his finger and a great case of Diamonds hanging at his Breast, his Robe was all of Cloath of silver imbroidered with gold, he was brought into the Chappel upon 8 Men's shoulders In his owne Chaire, which is of red Velvet imbroidered all about with his armes in gold. And all the way, as he was carryed from his owne Chamber to this Chappel, which was some 3 or 4 Romes distant, the People who were in Multitudes to behold him knelt all downe as he passed along, and he in crossing himselfe made as if he blest them. Afterwards, being set downe, he went up to the high Altar, where he sat downe in A seate which is there made for him, his Triple Crowne was taken from his head and A mitre put on by A Cardinal; then came all the Cardinals, one by one, and kissed his foote, and a little after, when some of the Ceremony of the Masse was performed, stood up a Jesuite and made An Oration to the Pope in Latin concerning the observation of the day. When the Masse was fully Ended, All the Cardinals went out of the Chappel, and the Pope being again taken up in the same pompous manner as formerly, was carryed again into his own Chamber, where, all the way, he blessed the people, and they crossing themselves as he passed by. Without doubt the greatest King or Emperor in the world could not be in a more splendid manner, and appeare more outwardly glorious to the world then this man did on this day. The Pallace of this Pope is very large and magnificently built, so that for statelinesse it may compare with the greatest King's Pallace in Christendome. | | [Piazza S. Pietro](Vasi27.htm#The Colonnade)January the 6th. Before a man enters into this Church we may behold a very fine fountaine in the same place wherein a Prince is building a very stately and magnificent walke, and for the Building of which the Pope hath given him 7 yeares tyme. Out of this Fountaine the water rises in such a vehement manner, that it is enough to strike astonishment to a man that at first beholds it. | | [Ara Coeli](Vasi130a.htm#S. Maria in Aracoeli)January the 15th, wee went to the Church that stands upon the Capitol Hill where is an Order of Franciscan Friers, and where one mounts up unto it by 124 large steps, all of marble. It is a very large and stately Church, and adorned with many Rich Chappels and Altars. All the floore of it being paved with Marble. At the upper end of the Church, close by the High Altar, is a place where they say one of the Sybils appeared to Augustus Cesar, and shewed him the Virgin Mary and Our Saviour in her Armes when he had an intent to be deified for a god, upon which sight was layd by that vane desire. | | Chiesa del Ges�January the 15th. Wee went to the Church of the Jesuits, which is called the grand Geesu, which is a very large and stately Church And adorned with a multitude of Rich Chappels and Altars about. (..) Wee came here at the same tyme that A Jew, his Wife, and Children were baptized by a Jesuite, where was present many great Persons, and among the Rest Don Augustine (who is the Pope's [Alexander VII](Storia25.html#Alexander VII) Nephew and made a Prince), with his wife, who was God mother to one of the Children. She had a Coach heere, which for Richnesse might be wel admired by all that sees it. | | Terme di CaracallaThe Baths of the Emperor Caracalla, are esteemed to be the most largest and Vastest buildings in Rome, but not admitted to be seene by any stranger, in regard the Jesuits have the place in their power and permits it not. | | Villa PerettiJanuary the 20th. We went into A Pallace that was formerly belonging to Cardinal Montalto of the Family of [Xistus Quintus](Storia23.html#Sixtus V). (..) Wee then passed to the fish pond where is a Neptune standing in his shell upon a Titan, and his Trident in his hand, made out of one Marble stone by the famous Barnino, who is now Alive in Rome, and who for his Rare and incomparable Art in graving was made a Knight by the Pope. On each side of this Statue are two heads which out of their garlands spout forth water in very pleasing figures. Here are likewise many devices to wash men onawares, and conveyance of water to water the plants, so that in this large Paradise, of two miles about, is a perpetual spring. | | [Santa Costanza](Vasi103.htm#S. Costanza)January the 27th, wee went to see that so famous and rare Tomb of Bacchus, which stands in the Temple that was formerly dedicated to him, some two mile out of the Citty. The very forme of which Temple is yett standing, having 24 pillars of Marble of the ancient Building about it. But since it is converted into a Church, where under the Altar lyes interred the Body of one of the emperor Constantin's Daughters, and in the Corner of this Church is that Rare Tomb of Bacchus, made all of porphir, and though made many hunderd yeares agoe, it looks as fresh as if it were newly carved. It is made all of one stone, and of a very vast Bignesse, but so rarely well carved on the out side, with vines and grapes and Bacchus'es on the sides, that it is esteemed to be one of the rarest pieces of Antiquity in all Rome. | | Ash WednesdayFebruary the 26th, and first day of Lent, I went to the Pope's Pallace, where was a Cappello of Cardinals, and masse said after the usual manner. Afterwards he was not carryed out In his Chaire by sound of Trumpetts, but walked out of the Chappell on foote, which was accounted for a great matter; then he went into his Sedan. Before him Marched 6 or 7 stately horses. Then some of his Guard of Swizzers, Then came his Holinesse, and after him 16 Cardinals upon Mules, Every one of them having his Hatt upon his head, which the Pope used to send to a Man when he makes him A Cardinal. After these Marched 10 Monsignors upon their Mules, having there Capps of the same fashion of the Cardinals, but there's was blew, and the Cardinals' Capps red. After these Marched about 200 light horsemen; having there swords drawne as they marchd along, the Pope never going abroad without these Men to attend on him, and after him Moltitudes of Coaches and people in them to see him passe, and soe passing up the Hill called the Aventine to the Church named Sabinia where going behind the Altar he read a little in a Booke, with his Capp, where I could see his shaved Crowne, and there, as others say, gave Ashes to his Cardinals, but I did not see it. Having stayed about halfe An hower in the Church, he went again into his Litter, where, all the way as he went, he was making Crosses with his hand and blessing the People. The People also, being so nursd up in superstition, that as soone as ever they had but a glimps of him, presently they downe upon their knees, and continue crossing themselves till he is passd by them, esteeming themselves most happy if they can but run after him as he passes a long, to receive his Blessing from him. | | [S. Paolo alle Tre Fontane](Vasi43.htm#S. Paolo alle Tre Fontane)A mile from S. Paolo fuori le Mura are 3 fountains which were made when St. Paul was beheaded which was in this place, where his head tumbling on the Earth, it leapt three tymes on three severall places, a little distant one from another, out of which 3 places came three fountaines of water, which at present are adorned and covered with Marble. | | Oratorio del SS. Crocifisso Afterwards wee went to A little Church called the Auditory of Marcel, which is behind the Corso, where wee heard Musicke. This place being appointed for the purpose, there being every Friday in the lent a Consort of the best voyces in Rome at this place. I thinke there was in this little Church all the strangers about Rome, where having waited some two howers, at last Musicke began with some a douzen voyces. A Lute, Violin and Organs, which sounded most sweetly, especially the Lute and Violin was so rare, that being once out of Rome it must never be expected to heare the like againe: the Subject that the musicke was upon was in the Praise of Thomas Aquinas, which A Dominican Priest extolled to the Skyes, calling him his Saint, and praying to him, that I beleeved the Priest lookes onely to be saved by the merrits of St Thomas, and not by the merrits of Christ. | | Chiesa Nuova and Castrati singers (eunuchs)February the 2nd 1659. It beginning to be night, wee went to the Chiesa Nova, where there is most incomparable Musicke every Sunday and holy day at Night, with the Organs and 4 Voyces, and wee heard here such sweete Musicke, that a man could not thinke his paines il spent, if he should come two thousand mile, if he were sure to be recompensed with nothing else, but to heare such most melodious voyces. (..) March the 18th, 1659. At night I went to the Chiesa Nova, where I heard that most sweete and melodious musicke which is here made on sundayes and holydayes, and to make it the more heavenly, if I may soe call it, for without doubt better cannot be upon Earth, was here the sweete singer and eunuch Bonaventure (Argenti), who is esteemed to have the most famousest and sweetest voyce of any in Rome, and whose voyce did sound so sweetly this night, that it might be well counted more then humane. | | Farewell to the Music of RomeMarch the 25th 1659. In the evening (..) wee heard againe the most sweete and ravishing Musicke, which without doubt is of more power to bring satisfaction to a man's soule than any other thing in the world beside, but here I was forced to give a farwel to all this more than Earthly musicke, in regard of our suddaine departure out of Rome. |

#### Travellers covered in this section

*** Introductory page** *** Gregory Martin's "Roma Sancta", a description of Christian Rome in 1581** *** Fynes Moryson's An Itinerary: Containing His Ten Years Travel .. in Italy .. in 1594** *** John Evelyn's Diary and Correspondence related to his stay in Rome in 1644** *** Francis Mortoft's Journal of his travels in France and Italy in 1659** *** John Ray's Observations (..) made in a journey through part of (..) Italy in 1663** *** Richard Lassels' The Voyage of Italy, or a Compleat Journey through Italy in ca 1668** *** Joseph Addison's Remarks on several parts of Italy, in the years 1701, 1702, 1703** *** Jonathan and Jonathan Richardson's Account of Some of the Statues, etc. in Italy - 1722** *** Edward Wright's Observations made in France, Italy &c. in the years 1720, 1721 and 1722.** *** Excerpts from John Dyer's The Ruins of Rome written in 1740** *** Thomas Gray's Letters from France and Italy in 1739-1741** *** James Boswell's Letters on the Grand Tour in 1765** *** Tobias Smollett's Travels through France and Italy in 1765** *** John Moore's View of Society and Manners in Italy (in 1775) - publ. 1781** *** John Chetwode Eustace's Classical Tour of Italy (in 1802) - publ. 1813** *** Joseph Forsyth's Remarks on Antiquities, Arts, and Letters in Italy in 1802-1803** *** John Cam Hobhouse's Dissertations on the Ruins of Rome in 1818** *** Henry Matthews' Diary of an Invalid (in 1817-1818)** *** Anna Jameson's Diary of an Ennuy�e (in 1821-1822) - publ. 1826** *** Sir Charles Fergusson's Travel Notes a Journey Through Italy in 1824-1825** *** William Hazlitt's Notes of a Journey Through France and Italy in 1824-1825** *** Samuel Rogers' Italy - publ. in 1830 with illustrations by J.M. William Turner** *** Hans Christian Andersen's The Improvisatore - 1834 (Engl. translation 1845)** *** George Stillman Hillard's Six Months in Italy in ca 1847-1848**

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