Eva Andersson Strand | University of Copenhagen (original) (raw)

Articles by Eva Andersson Strand

Research paper thumbnail of Weaving Textiles

Viking, special issue 1: Viking War, 2021

Textile research has demonstrated that new types of textiles were introduced to Scandinavia in th... more Textile research has demonstrated that new types of textiles were introduced to Scandinavia in the latter part of the Scandinavian Iron Age (AD 700-900). The archaeology of the period displays an increased number of textile tools, and large concentrations of pit houses dedicated to textile production. This era also saw the introduction of sails to Scandinavia, which is one of the obvious reasons for textiles and textile production becoming such an important part of Viking Age society. However, hitherto the value of the textiles has mostly been ignored, and its impact rarely discussed in research. This article will attempt to remedy this and poses important questions, such as: what was the economic value of the textiles needed for travel and warfare, and what was the value of the textiles used on a journey? In the article, the 10 th century Ladby ship from Fyn in Denmark, is used to exemplify the demands and economic value of all textiles of one single ship, on one journey. I will use an interdisciplinary approach, including analyses of archaeological textiles; iconography; and early medieval texts. The aim of this novel method is to highlight the importance of textiles. It will also explore how journeys under sail and warfare contributed to the increased consumption of textiles.

Research paper thumbnail of Travelling with textiles

Bulletin of Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities Vol 81, 2020

Textiles are essential for most societies. Thus, textile production, consumption, trade and excha... more Textiles are essential for most societies. Thus, textile production, consumption, trade and exchange give important perspectives when investigated and integrated into the general discussion on society. The inhabitants of Scandinavia in the period 750–1050, their society and life, their travels, trading and raids have been the focus of much research over several decades. Although it is known that textiles and textile production were significant, this valuable perspective is yet to be more integrated into the general discussion on Scandinavian Viking Age society and the early medieval Silk Roads. Textiles travel in many different ways, as clothes on travelers, as trading goods, as gifts, and loot from raids. Can we actually differentiate, for example between the trade of textiles, exchange of textiles as gifts, or the redistribution of textiles? The aim of this paper is thus to illuminate the complexity of travelling textiles and how this discussion can be integrated in a wider perspective.

Research paper thumbnail of Margrethe Hald: The life and work of a textile pioneer

Archaeological Textiles Review 62, 2020

Research paper thumbnail of Motion Capture and Textile Experimental Archaeology a possible combination

ORIGINI, Prehistory and Protohistory of Ancient Civilisations XL, 2018

Research paper thumbnail of Shape of Things. Understanding a Loom Weight

OXFORD JOURNAL OF ARCHAEOLOGY 28(4), 2009

Loom weights are common finds in archaeological excavations in Europe and the Near East. They rep... more Loom weights are common finds in archaeological excavations in Europe and the Near East. They represent the only remains of warp-weightedvlooms. The function of the warp-weighted loom is well known from ethnographic studies. The function of loom weights, however, has not been investigated and cannot be deduced directly from ethnographical data, since loom weights in antiquity were very different from those used in the twentieth century AD. This paper reviews the functional elements of a loom weight. The weight and thickness of loom weights are established as the defining functional parameters for the operation of the warp-weighted loom. A series of systematic tests demonstrated that the weight of a loom weight defines what yarn to use and the thread density. The thickness of a loom weight, and thus the width of the row of loom weights hanging closely together, defines the width of a fabric and – together with the weight of the loom weight – the thread count and density of the fabric. This new knowledge provides the methodological framework for archaeologists to calculate textile production possibilities from any given loom weight, as long as the weight and thickness are preserved. Furthermore, it allows scholars to assess textile production on sites where no textiles are preserved.

Research paper thumbnail of The textile chaîne opératoire: using a multidisciplinary approach to textile archaeology with a focus on the Ancient Near East

Paléorient, vol. 38, 1-2, 2012

Knowledge of textile history including fibre, technology, tools etc, is essential and absolutely ... more Knowledge of textile history including fibre, technology, tools etc, is essential and absolutely necessary for our understanding of the past. Textile research has become an important field of archaeology and has an enormous potential, being able to tell us about economic, social, chronological, and cultural aspects of past societies. Due to poor preservation conditions, few textiles have survived in the Near East. However, the few existing fragments, in combination with other sources, provide evidence of a well-developed knowledge of how to use fibres for producing textiles. Furthermore, the analyses demonstrate that several types of plant and animal fibres were used in textile production. Flax fibres and sheep wool are considered to be the two most important textile fibres from Neolithic to modern times. Information gathered from the analysis of textiles suggests that it is highly plausible that the different stages of processing fibres were similar across ancient Eurasia even if it is, of course, important to consider that different climate zones will affect both the need for and access to fibres. Archaeobotanical and zoo ostelogical material also provide information on the use of textile fibres. Additionally, different types of installations (e.g. retting pits, workshops) and textile tools (e.g. mallets, spindles, looms) would have been used and even if many tools were made of perishable materials textile tools such as spindle whorls and loom weights are well known from archaeological contexts. Therefore, this paper will give a basic framework for textile production that will provide important insights into the procurement and processing of plant and animal fibres and briefly on spinning and weaving. This will be accomplished with information from archaeological and written sources used in combination with ethnography and experimental archaeology.

Research paper thumbnail of Old Textiles, New Possibilities

European Journal of Archaeology, Vol. 13(2), 2010

Textile research has become an important field of archaeology. Although the established analytica... more Textile research has become an important field of archaeology. Although the established analytical methods are often viewed as specialized, their integration with other interdisciplinary approaches allows us to deal with broader archaeological issues and provides the interpretational base for much more comprehensive investigation of textiles in ancient times. Analyses of fibres, dyes, archaeobotanical and archaeozoological remains, as well as palaeoenvironmental and geochemical investigations, provide information about available resources, while tool studies, experimental testing, and visual grouping are approaches that explore the technology and techniques. Together, these approaches can provide new knowledge about textile production and consumption and, thereby, about people and society in ancient times.

Research paper thumbnail of Concluding remarks

Textiles and Gender in Antiquity, from the Orient to the Mediterranean, 2020

Research paper thumbnail of Mise en œuvre d’une approche globale des textiles anciens au Centre de recherches sur les textiles de Copenhague

PERSPECTIVE actualité en histoire de l’art. 2016.1, 2016

L’archéologie textile en Scandinavie repose sur une longue tradition ; elle bénéficie par ailleur... more L’archéologie textile en Scandinavie repose sur une longue tradition ; elle bénéficie par ailleurs d’une remarquable préservation des textiles anciens et s’appuie sur la pratique de l’archéologie expérimentale. Les recherches sont menées par des spécialistes dans divers domaines – archéologie, ethnologie, anthropologie, histoire de l’art, techniques de conservation – mais aussi par des personnes formées à l’artisanat du tissage. Afin de prendre toute la mesure des recherches sur les textiles menées en Scandinavie et de comprendre leur évolution, il est utile d’évoquer brièvement le contexte historique de leurs origines.

Research paper thumbnail of L’archeologia sperimentale e la ricerca sui tessuti.

In M. Gleba and R. Laurito (eds), Il tessuto della vita: la produzione tessile nell’Italia antica. , 2015

Research paper thumbnail of Arslantepe, Malatya (Turkey) (Turkey). Textiles, Tools and Imprints of Fabrics from the 4th to the 2nd Millenium BCE

Paléorient, vol. 35.1, 2009

Textile production is one of the oldest crafts and has played a crucial role in societies. Yet, v... more Textile production is one of the oldest crafts and has played a crucial role in societies. Yet, very few archaeological textiles are preserved and we must therefore rely on the remains of textile tools. In this paper, a group of scholars reviews two millennia of textile tools from Bronze Age Arslantepe. The size and weight of the tools inform about the textile production carried out at the site and illustrate how this production changes over time. Fortunate finds of textile remains at Arslantepe allow for an insight into the fibre and techniques. The remains of an early 3rd millennium goat hair textile of exceptional quality demonstrate the advanced state of the craft and the functionality of the textile tools.

Research paper thumbnail of New Research on Bronze Age Textile Production

Bulletin of the Institute of Classical Studies, 51. 171-174. , 2008

Tools and Textiles - Texts and Contests is an international and interdisciplinary research progr... more Tools and Textiles - Texts and Contests is an international and interdisciplinary
research programme hosted by the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for
Textile Research (CTR) in 2005-10. The aim is to investigate textile production in the
Aegean, Anatolia and in the Levant during the Bronze Age. The programme gathers a
wide range of specialists such as prehistoric archaeologists, classical archaeologists,
craftspeople, historians and philologists. Our reason for choosing this focus area is the
complexity and variety of sources: textile tools, inscriptions with extensive records on
production management, glyptic, frescoes and relief iconography in which various types
of dress occur, as well as remains of archaeological textiles.

Research paper thumbnail of Invisible handicrafts, the general picture of textile and skin crafts in Scandinavian surveys.

In L. Larsson et al. (eds), Lund Archaeological Review 1995, 7-19. , 1996

Textile production and fur and skin preparation are seldom put into an archaeological context and... more Textile production and fur and skin preparation are seldom put into an archaeological context and discussed. An often-heard argument is that finds of textiles are few and that we know nothing about skin preparation. Textile finds are few compared to, say, iron fragments, flints and potsherds, but there are many implements such as needles, spindle whorls and loom weights.
What significance is ascribed to these handicrafts in prehistoric society? To see how these crafts are presented, I have examined eight surveys from Sweden, Denmark , Norway and Finland.
The examination reveals several interesting differences between, on the one hand, textiles and skin crafts and, on the other hand, other kinds of craft. Textile production and skin preparation are seldom discussed under headings about handicraft. Imported textiles are mentioned in passing but with no proper discussion. None of the authors has totally omitted to describe costumes from the Bronze Age and Iron Age, but one often gets the impression that dresses only are a complement to brooches and other ornaments.
Textile and skin crafts should be discussed on the same premises as other crafts and should be put into context. We must see the needs and possibilities of prehistoric people, not transfer our own values to them. We do not have to presume that the status of a craft in prehistoric time depends on the number of archaeological finds we have today.

Research paper thumbnail of Archaeology, culture and clothing. Society and culture, two faces of the same ethnic coin?

Archaeologia Polona, 1996

Research paper thumbnail of Introduction

In C. Breniquet, M. Tengberg, E. Andersson Strand and M.-L. Nosch (eds), Préhistoire des Textiles au Proche-Orient/ Prehistory of Textiles in the Near East. Paléorient. Pluridisciplinaire Review of Prehistory and Protohistory of Southwestern and Central Asia., 2012

Introduction to prehistoric textiles and textile production in the Near East.

Research paper thumbnail of Arkeologi, textilforskning och teori – några reflektioner

Arkeologisk Tidsskrift Primitive Tider, 2009

Archaeology, textile research and theories - some reflections.

Research paper thumbnail of Archaeology, culture and clothing. Society and culture, two faces of the same ethnic coin?

Archaeologia Polona, 1996

Research paper thumbnail of Invisible Crafts

Archaeological Textiles Review ATR, 1995

It is often said that finds of textiles are few and that there is no knowledge of fur processing.... more It is often said that finds of textiles are few and that there is no knowledge of fur processing. But is this the truth? Certainly, the textile corpus is small compared, for example, to iron fragments, worked flint, and pottery shards. At the same time there are also many different textile implements like needles, spindle whorls, and loomweights that survive. Several prehistoric textile techniques like
spinning, weaving on a warp-weighted loom, and tablet weaving are traditions which have continued up to today.

Research paper thumbnail of List of publications - articles per 2018

Books by Eva Andersson Strand

Research paper thumbnail of Textilproduktion i arkeologisk kontext, en metodstudie av yngre järnåldersboplatser i Skåne

Institute of Archaeology Report series No. 58. Lund, 1996

Research paper thumbnail of Weaving Textiles

Viking, special issue 1: Viking War, 2021

Textile research has demonstrated that new types of textiles were introduced to Scandinavia in th... more Textile research has demonstrated that new types of textiles were introduced to Scandinavia in the latter part of the Scandinavian Iron Age (AD 700-900). The archaeology of the period displays an increased number of textile tools, and large concentrations of pit houses dedicated to textile production. This era also saw the introduction of sails to Scandinavia, which is one of the obvious reasons for textiles and textile production becoming such an important part of Viking Age society. However, hitherto the value of the textiles has mostly been ignored, and its impact rarely discussed in research. This article will attempt to remedy this and poses important questions, such as: what was the economic value of the textiles needed for travel and warfare, and what was the value of the textiles used on a journey? In the article, the 10 th century Ladby ship from Fyn in Denmark, is used to exemplify the demands and economic value of all textiles of one single ship, on one journey. I will use an interdisciplinary approach, including analyses of archaeological textiles; iconography; and early medieval texts. The aim of this novel method is to highlight the importance of textiles. It will also explore how journeys under sail and warfare contributed to the increased consumption of textiles.

Research paper thumbnail of Travelling with textiles

Bulletin of Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities Vol 81, 2020

Textiles are essential for most societies. Thus, textile production, consumption, trade and excha... more Textiles are essential for most societies. Thus, textile production, consumption, trade and exchange give important perspectives when investigated and integrated into the general discussion on society. The inhabitants of Scandinavia in the period 750–1050, their society and life, their travels, trading and raids have been the focus of much research over several decades. Although it is known that textiles and textile production were significant, this valuable perspective is yet to be more integrated into the general discussion on Scandinavian Viking Age society and the early medieval Silk Roads. Textiles travel in many different ways, as clothes on travelers, as trading goods, as gifts, and loot from raids. Can we actually differentiate, for example between the trade of textiles, exchange of textiles as gifts, or the redistribution of textiles? The aim of this paper is thus to illuminate the complexity of travelling textiles and how this discussion can be integrated in a wider perspective.

Research paper thumbnail of Margrethe Hald: The life and work of a textile pioneer

Archaeological Textiles Review 62, 2020

Research paper thumbnail of Motion Capture and Textile Experimental Archaeology a possible combination

ORIGINI, Prehistory and Protohistory of Ancient Civilisations XL, 2018

Research paper thumbnail of Shape of Things. Understanding a Loom Weight

OXFORD JOURNAL OF ARCHAEOLOGY 28(4), 2009

Loom weights are common finds in archaeological excavations in Europe and the Near East. They rep... more Loom weights are common finds in archaeological excavations in Europe and the Near East. They represent the only remains of warp-weightedvlooms. The function of the warp-weighted loom is well known from ethnographic studies. The function of loom weights, however, has not been investigated and cannot be deduced directly from ethnographical data, since loom weights in antiquity were very different from those used in the twentieth century AD. This paper reviews the functional elements of a loom weight. The weight and thickness of loom weights are established as the defining functional parameters for the operation of the warp-weighted loom. A series of systematic tests demonstrated that the weight of a loom weight defines what yarn to use and the thread density. The thickness of a loom weight, and thus the width of the row of loom weights hanging closely together, defines the width of a fabric and – together with the weight of the loom weight – the thread count and density of the fabric. This new knowledge provides the methodological framework for archaeologists to calculate textile production possibilities from any given loom weight, as long as the weight and thickness are preserved. Furthermore, it allows scholars to assess textile production on sites where no textiles are preserved.

Research paper thumbnail of The textile chaîne opératoire: using a multidisciplinary approach to textile archaeology with a focus on the Ancient Near East

Paléorient, vol. 38, 1-2, 2012

Knowledge of textile history including fibre, technology, tools etc, is essential and absolutely ... more Knowledge of textile history including fibre, technology, tools etc, is essential and absolutely necessary for our understanding of the past. Textile research has become an important field of archaeology and has an enormous potential, being able to tell us about economic, social, chronological, and cultural aspects of past societies. Due to poor preservation conditions, few textiles have survived in the Near East. However, the few existing fragments, in combination with other sources, provide evidence of a well-developed knowledge of how to use fibres for producing textiles. Furthermore, the analyses demonstrate that several types of plant and animal fibres were used in textile production. Flax fibres and sheep wool are considered to be the two most important textile fibres from Neolithic to modern times. Information gathered from the analysis of textiles suggests that it is highly plausible that the different stages of processing fibres were similar across ancient Eurasia even if it is, of course, important to consider that different climate zones will affect both the need for and access to fibres. Archaeobotanical and zoo ostelogical material also provide information on the use of textile fibres. Additionally, different types of installations (e.g. retting pits, workshops) and textile tools (e.g. mallets, spindles, looms) would have been used and even if many tools were made of perishable materials textile tools such as spindle whorls and loom weights are well known from archaeological contexts. Therefore, this paper will give a basic framework for textile production that will provide important insights into the procurement and processing of plant and animal fibres and briefly on spinning and weaving. This will be accomplished with information from archaeological and written sources used in combination with ethnography and experimental archaeology.

Research paper thumbnail of Old Textiles, New Possibilities

European Journal of Archaeology, Vol. 13(2), 2010

Textile research has become an important field of archaeology. Although the established analytica... more Textile research has become an important field of archaeology. Although the established analytical methods are often viewed as specialized, their integration with other interdisciplinary approaches allows us to deal with broader archaeological issues and provides the interpretational base for much more comprehensive investigation of textiles in ancient times. Analyses of fibres, dyes, archaeobotanical and archaeozoological remains, as well as palaeoenvironmental and geochemical investigations, provide information about available resources, while tool studies, experimental testing, and visual grouping are approaches that explore the technology and techniques. Together, these approaches can provide new knowledge about textile production and consumption and, thereby, about people and society in ancient times.

Research paper thumbnail of Concluding remarks

Textiles and Gender in Antiquity, from the Orient to the Mediterranean, 2020

Research paper thumbnail of Mise en œuvre d’une approche globale des textiles anciens au Centre de recherches sur les textiles de Copenhague

PERSPECTIVE actualité en histoire de l’art. 2016.1, 2016

L’archéologie textile en Scandinavie repose sur une longue tradition ; elle bénéficie par ailleur... more L’archéologie textile en Scandinavie repose sur une longue tradition ; elle bénéficie par ailleurs d’une remarquable préservation des textiles anciens et s’appuie sur la pratique de l’archéologie expérimentale. Les recherches sont menées par des spécialistes dans divers domaines – archéologie, ethnologie, anthropologie, histoire de l’art, techniques de conservation – mais aussi par des personnes formées à l’artisanat du tissage. Afin de prendre toute la mesure des recherches sur les textiles menées en Scandinavie et de comprendre leur évolution, il est utile d’évoquer brièvement le contexte historique de leurs origines.

Research paper thumbnail of L’archeologia sperimentale e la ricerca sui tessuti.

In M. Gleba and R. Laurito (eds), Il tessuto della vita: la produzione tessile nell’Italia antica. , 2015

Research paper thumbnail of Arslantepe, Malatya (Turkey) (Turkey). Textiles, Tools and Imprints of Fabrics from the 4th to the 2nd Millenium BCE

Paléorient, vol. 35.1, 2009

Textile production is one of the oldest crafts and has played a crucial role in societies. Yet, v... more Textile production is one of the oldest crafts and has played a crucial role in societies. Yet, very few archaeological textiles are preserved and we must therefore rely on the remains of textile tools. In this paper, a group of scholars reviews two millennia of textile tools from Bronze Age Arslantepe. The size and weight of the tools inform about the textile production carried out at the site and illustrate how this production changes over time. Fortunate finds of textile remains at Arslantepe allow for an insight into the fibre and techniques. The remains of an early 3rd millennium goat hair textile of exceptional quality demonstrate the advanced state of the craft and the functionality of the textile tools.

Research paper thumbnail of New Research on Bronze Age Textile Production

Bulletin of the Institute of Classical Studies, 51. 171-174. , 2008

Tools and Textiles - Texts and Contests is an international and interdisciplinary research progr... more Tools and Textiles - Texts and Contests is an international and interdisciplinary
research programme hosted by the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for
Textile Research (CTR) in 2005-10. The aim is to investigate textile production in the
Aegean, Anatolia and in the Levant during the Bronze Age. The programme gathers a
wide range of specialists such as prehistoric archaeologists, classical archaeologists,
craftspeople, historians and philologists. Our reason for choosing this focus area is the
complexity and variety of sources: textile tools, inscriptions with extensive records on
production management, glyptic, frescoes and relief iconography in which various types
of dress occur, as well as remains of archaeological textiles.

Research paper thumbnail of Invisible handicrafts, the general picture of textile and skin crafts in Scandinavian surveys.

In L. Larsson et al. (eds), Lund Archaeological Review 1995, 7-19. , 1996

Textile production and fur and skin preparation are seldom put into an archaeological context and... more Textile production and fur and skin preparation are seldom put into an archaeological context and discussed. An often-heard argument is that finds of textiles are few and that we know nothing about skin preparation. Textile finds are few compared to, say, iron fragments, flints and potsherds, but there are many implements such as needles, spindle whorls and loom weights.
What significance is ascribed to these handicrafts in prehistoric society? To see how these crafts are presented, I have examined eight surveys from Sweden, Denmark , Norway and Finland.
The examination reveals several interesting differences between, on the one hand, textiles and skin crafts and, on the other hand, other kinds of craft. Textile production and skin preparation are seldom discussed under headings about handicraft. Imported textiles are mentioned in passing but with no proper discussion. None of the authors has totally omitted to describe costumes from the Bronze Age and Iron Age, but one often gets the impression that dresses only are a complement to brooches and other ornaments.
Textile and skin crafts should be discussed on the same premises as other crafts and should be put into context. We must see the needs and possibilities of prehistoric people, not transfer our own values to them. We do not have to presume that the status of a craft in prehistoric time depends on the number of archaeological finds we have today.

Research paper thumbnail of Archaeology, culture and clothing. Society and culture, two faces of the same ethnic coin?

Archaeologia Polona, 1996

Research paper thumbnail of Introduction

In C. Breniquet, M. Tengberg, E. Andersson Strand and M.-L. Nosch (eds), Préhistoire des Textiles au Proche-Orient/ Prehistory of Textiles in the Near East. Paléorient. Pluridisciplinaire Review of Prehistory and Protohistory of Southwestern and Central Asia., 2012

Introduction to prehistoric textiles and textile production in the Near East.

Research paper thumbnail of Arkeologi, textilforskning och teori – några reflektioner

Arkeologisk Tidsskrift Primitive Tider, 2009

Archaeology, textile research and theories - some reflections.

Research paper thumbnail of Archaeology, culture and clothing. Society and culture, two faces of the same ethnic coin?

Archaeologia Polona, 1996

Research paper thumbnail of Invisible Crafts

Archaeological Textiles Review ATR, 1995

It is often said that finds of textiles are few and that there is no knowledge of fur processing.... more It is often said that finds of textiles are few and that there is no knowledge of fur processing. But is this the truth? Certainly, the textile corpus is small compared, for example, to iron fragments, worked flint, and pottery shards. At the same time there are also many different textile implements like needles, spindle whorls, and loomweights that survive. Several prehistoric textile techniques like
spinning, weaving on a warp-weighted loom, and tablet weaving are traditions which have continued up to today.

Research paper thumbnail of List of publications - articles per 2018

Research paper thumbnail of Textilproduktion i arkeologisk kontext, en metodstudie av yngre järnåldersboplatser i Skåne

Institute of Archaeology Report series No. 58. Lund, 1996

Research paper thumbnail of The Common Thread, Textile Production during the Late Iron Age – Viking Age.

Research paper thumbnail of Tools for Textile Production – from Birka and Hedeby

Tools for Textile Production – from Birka and Hedeby, 2003

Research paper thumbnail of List of publications - books and book chapters. Per 2018

Research paper thumbnail of Ancient European Looms

A World of Looms Weaving Technology and Textile Arts, 2019

Warp weighted loom archaeology - traditional textile craft and experimental archaeology with a Ro... more Warp weighted loom archaeology - traditional textile craft and experimental archaeology with a Roman example

Research paper thumbnail of Tools and textiles. Production and organisation in Birka and Hedeby

Viking Settlements and Viking Society. Papers from the Proceedings of the Sixteenth Viking Congress, Reykjavík and Reykholt, 16th -23rd August 2009, 2011

The textiles produced in Viking Age Scandinavia were not only a twofold system of spun fibres. Th... more The textiles produced in Viking Age Scandinavia were not only a twofold system of spun fibres. They were a result of complex interactions among resources, technology and society and moreover the Viking societies’ needs, desires and choices. Naturally, the accessibility of resources and the state of technology conditioned the choices of this society (Andersson Strand et al., 2010). In this article, textile production and its
organisation in Birka and Hedeby will be compared and discussed. This will be done via studies of textiles and textile tools, and a model of various organisational modes presented. The results of tool analyses demonstrate that, the majority of the textiles from the two places could also have been produced there. The general assumption that most of the textiles were imported to Birka is questioned.

Research paper thumbnail of Textile production at three Middle Minoan centres

11th International Cretological congress. ΠΕΠΡΑΓΜΕΝΑ ΙΑ΄΄ ΔΙΕΘΝΟΥΣ ΚΡΗΤΟΛΟΓΙΚΟΥ ΣΥΝΕΔΡΙΟΥ (Ρέθυμνο, 21-27 Οκτωβρίου 2011), 2018

In Bronze Age Aegean communities, as in most ancient communities, there would have been a need fo... more In Bronze Age Aegean communities, as in most ancient communities, there would have been a need for a wide variety of textiles: textiles for clothing, ranging from utilitarian, everyday dress to elite costumes; textiles for sails; textiles for furnishing, including bedding, wall-hangings, carpets, canopies and coverings, as well as textiles for a variety of other purposes, such as bags and sacks. These textiles were made in different qualities, using different techniques and raw materials, and were produced with different types of tools. Textile manufacture was labour intensive, and had an important economic and social impact on society. The study of textile production can therefore contribute greatly to our understanding of Bronze Age Aegean culture.

Research paper thumbnail of She was Weaving a Great Web. Textiles in Troia

AEGAEUM 33 Annales liégeoises et PASPiennes d’archéologie égéenne - KOSMOS. JEWELLERY, ADORNMENT AND TEXTILES IN THE AEGEAN BRONZE AGE, 2012

While the Homeric heroes occupy themselves with politics and war, the women are busy... more While the Homeric heroes occupy themselves with politics and war, the women are busy with their, apparently, most frequent and typical occupation: weaving. Helen, Andromache, and – of course – Penelope sit at loom every day. In spite of this textual evidence which may hint at the Bronze/Iron Age everyday life reality, surprisingly small amount of loomweights were found in Troia. For the number of total 1833 textile production tools recorded for Troia at the CTR database, the majority (over 81%, 1493 objects) are spindle whorls, while only ca. 10% are loom weights.1 The number of textile tools in the other tools groups is even smaller.

Research paper thumbnail of With a little help from my friends. Investigating Mycenean textiles with help from Scandinavian experimental archaeology

METRON. Measuring the Aegean Bronze Age. Proceedings of the 9th International Agean Conference, New Haven, Yale University, 18-21 April 2002, 2003

Research paper thumbnail of Experimental textile archaeology – a link to the past?

In C. Ebert, M. Harlow, L. Bjerregaard, L., and E. Andersson Strand, (eds) Traditional textile Craft – An intangible Cultural Heritage?, 2018

https://www.traditionaltextilecraft.dk/e-publication

Research paper thumbnail of Textile Production in the Late Roman Iron Age. A Case Study of Textile Production in Vorbasse, Denmark

Arkæologi i Slesvig / Archäologie in Schleswig Sonderband „Det 61. Internationale Sachsensymposion 2010“, Haderslev, Danmark, 2011

Textiles have an enormous potential in archaeological research as it enables knowledge ... more Textiles have an enormous potential in archaeological research as it enables knowledge about both social and cultural aspects of ancient societies, as well as giv­ing us a unique opportunity to come close to the prehistoric individual. A textile is not simply a binary system of spun, plied or spliced fibres, but first and foremost a result of complex interactions between re­sources, technology and society. The cata­lysts for this interaction are the need, de­sire and demand of the society in question, which in turn influence the exploitation of resources and technological development. Conversely, the availability of resources and the state of technology condition the societal choices and developments. The totality of these interactions is expressed through textile production.

Research paper thumbnail of From Spindle Whorls and Loom Weights to Fabrics in the Bronze Age Aegean

AEGAEUM 33 Annales liégeoises et PASPiennes d’archéologie égéenne - KOSMOS. JEWELLERY, ADORNMENT AND TEXTILES IN THE AEGEAN BRONZE AGE, 2012

The most common archaeological evidence for textile production in the Aegean and East... more The most common archaeological evidence for textile production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean is the presence of spindle whorls and loom weights. The spindle whorls demonstrate a production of spun thread while the loom weights indicate the use of the warp-weighted loom. A wide variety of both spindle whorl and loom weight shapes have been recorded. In the past, this diversity has generally been explained in terms of cultural, geographical and chronological factors. In contrast, recent research has considered some aspects of shape as an expression of textile tool function. This approach, which draws on experimental archaeology, has made it possible to render textile craft visible, even if the textiles themselves are not preserved.

Research paper thumbnail of Textile Production in Late Bronze Age Khania. Evidence from the Greek-Swedish Excavations of the Agia Aikaterini Square, Kastelli

Conference: 10th International Cretological conference, 2006

As a tribute to the organisers of the 10th International Cretological conference, we have chosen... more As a tribute to the organisers of the 10th International Cretological conference, we have chosen to elucidate textile production at Khania in the Late Bronze Age in this paper. Although the Master of Khania is slightly underdressed, it is important to remember that there was a tremendous need for textiles in a Minoan town like Khania. The population constantly needed to produce thread in order to meet the need for clothing, domestic textiles like beddings and carpets, sacks and sails. e Bronze Age represents the first time in history when textile production in some areas developed from household production to standardised, industrialised, centralised production, on the basis of a division of labour (Barber 1991). The development of dye industries, colour extraction and the intensive use of colour symbolism in dress demonstrate that the Bronze Age shepherds were using selective breeding in order to obtain a variety of wool colours and qualities.

Research paper thumbnail of Capturing Our Cultural Intangible Textile Heritage, MoCap and Craft Technology.

Digital Heritage. Progress in Cultural Heritage: Documentation, Preservation, and Protection., 2016

Textile craft and textile design have always had an important social,cultural and eco... more Textile craft and textile design have always had an important social,cultural and economic impact on both individuals and societies. The cultural heritage of textiles does not end with the preservation and collection of costumes and other textiles in museums. It also includes living traditions inherited from our ancestors. Furthermore, understanding craft and craft processes are crucial when considering both past societies and the cultural heritage of humankind. The study of intangible processes, hidden within archaeological objects, crafts, action and activities as well as cognitive processes, involves both practical and theoretical considerations. Today, computer applications such as Motion Capture can enhance our knowledge of the complexity and variety of artifacts, their production, and how various craft traditions develop over time, yielding new insights and perspectives applicable to ancient societies as well as to traditional craft today.

Research paper thumbnail of Experimental Textile Archaeology

North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X, 2009

Experimental archaeology is a method that can provide important insights into archaeological rese... more Experimental archaeology is a method that can provide important insights into archaeological research. This is done primarily by practical tests performed on the basis of questions related to archaeological data.

Research paper thumbnail of Engendering Central Places. Some Aspects of the Organisation of Textile Production during the Viking Age

Archëologische Textilfunde, NESAT IX. Nordeuropäisches Symposium für archäologische Textilien, 2005

Organisation of textile production in Birka.

Research paper thumbnail of Presentations by Eva Andersson Strand

List of presentations given at international and national conferences and seminars. Updated May 2... more List of presentations given at international and national conferences and seminars. Updated May 2020.

Research paper thumbnail of Arkeologi och Barn

In E. Andersson, M. Dalhgren, and K. Jennbert (eds), Arkeologi och förmedling. Lund, Report Series No. 54., 1994

Archaeology and children In: Arkeologi och förmedling. Rapport från arkeologidagarna 18-19 januar... more Archaeology and children
In: Arkeologi och förmedling. Rapport från arkeologidagarna 18-19 januari 1994

Research paper thumbnail of Inslag, Nedslag, Uppslag, Den generella bilden av textil- och skinnhantverk i Skandinviska översiktsverk

In C. Caesar et. al. (eds), Han Hon Den Det, att integrera genus och kön i arkeologi. Lund, Report series No.65, 154-165. , 1999

In: Han Hon Den Det; C Caesar, I Gustin, B Petersson, E Rudebeck, E Räf, L Ströbeck (red.) | Han ... more In: Han Hon Den Det; C Caesar, I Gustin, B Petersson, E Rudebeck, E Räf, L Ströbeck (red.) | Han Hon Den Det. Att integrera genus och kön i arkeologi | Report Series, Department of Archaeology and Ancient History 65 | 1999

Research paper thumbnail of New Perspectives on the Bronze Age Textile Production in the Eastern Mediterranean. The First Results with Ebla as a Pilot Study

Arachne , 2010

The systematic analyses of Bronze Age textile tools conducted by the Italian Ebla team (MAIS) and... more The systematic analyses of Bronze Age textile tools conducted by the Italian Ebla team
(MAIS) and the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research
(CTR) have made it possible to portray Ebla textile production. For weaving, the
ground loom and the two-beam loom were the preferred technologies; the spinning
tools, including spindle whorls, show gradual development and changes from the
Early Bronze Age to the Middle Bronze Age, with the introduction of new types of
tools and materials, reduced sizes and weights, likely indicating that thinner yarn and
finer textiles were becoming more abundant.

Research paper thumbnail of Early Loom types in ancient societies

in M. Siennicka, A. Ulanowska and L. Rahmstorf (eds) First Textiles, the beginnings of Textile Manufacture in Europe and the Mediterranean, Oxbow books , 2018

Textile production and the manufacture of clothing was one of the most essential daily activities... more Textile production and the manufacture of clothing was one of the most essential daily activities in prehistory. Textiles were significant objects of practical use, and at the same time had cultural, social and symbolic meaning, crucial for displaying the identity, gender, social rank and status, or wealth of their users. However, evidence of ancient clothing is scarce due to unfavourable preservation of organic materials. Only occasionally are prehistoric textiles and associated implements preserved, mainly as a result of exceptional environmental conditions, such as waterlogged contexts like bogs, or in very dry or cold climates. In other cases textiles are sporadically mineralised, carbonised or preserved by metal corrosion. Textiles and leather can also be visible as imprints on clay.

The beginning of textile manufacture is still vague, but can be traced back to the upper Palaeolithic. Important developments in textile technology, e.g. weaving, spinning with a spindle, introduction of wool, appeared in Europe and the Mediterranean throughout the Neolithic, Chalcolithic and Early Bronze Age. This book is devoted to the early textile production in Europe and the Mediterranean and aims to collect and investigate the combined evidence of textile and leather remains, tools, workplaces and textile iconography.

Andersson Strand, E, 2018. Early loom types in ancient societies in M. Siennicka, A. Ulanowska and L. Rahmstorf (eds) First Textiles, the beginnings of Textile Manufacture in Europe and the Mediterranean, Oxbow books, Ancient textile Series 32, Oxbow books. Oxford & Philadelphia. 17-29

https://www.oxbowbooks.com/oxbow/first-textiles.html

Research paper thumbnail of Into the Wool Zone

in S. Sabatini and S. Bergerbrant (eds) Weaving the patterns, Textile production and specialization in Europe and the Mediterranean during the 2nd and the beginning of the 1st millennium

Research paper thumbnail of Current research on textile imprints on bullae at Kültepe

KIM (Kültepe International Meetings) 2 proceedings. , 2017

Textiles from the thriving trade city of Kültepe, Anatolia, in 19 century BCE, has long vanished,... more Textiles from the thriving trade city of Kültepe, Anatolia, in 19 century BCE, has long vanished, but the material can be studied through the imprints it made on the bullae as well as the content of the archives of the merchants of Kültepe.

Research paper thumbnail of Textile production at three Middle Minoan centres.

11th International Cretological congress

https://anemi.lib.uoc.gr/metadata/5/d/5/metadata-1525688525-459146-20835.tkl Cutler, J. and Ande... more https://anemi.lib.uoc.gr/metadata/5/d/5/metadata-1525688525-459146-20835.tkl

Cutler, J. and Andersson Strand, E. 2018 Textile production at three Middle Minoan centres. In 11th International Cretological congress. ΠΕΠΡΑΓΜΕΝΑ ΙΑ΄΄ ΔΙΕΘΝΟΥΣ ΚΡΗΤΟΛΟΓΙΚΟΥ ΣΥΝΕΔΡΙΟΥ (Ρέθυμνο, 21-27 Οκτωβρίου 2011) ΤΟΜΟΣ Α1.3, ΤΜΗΜΑ ΑΡΧΑΙΟΛΟΓΙΚΟ, Σώμα – Κινήσεις – Αισθήσεις – Ένδυση, Τέχνη – Εικονογραφία, Σφραγιδο – γλυφία 41-57 Γραφή – Διοίκησηp. 41-57

Research paper thumbnail of THE WOOL ZONE IN PREHISTORY AND PROTOHISTORY

The Textile Revolution in Bronze Age Europe Production, Specialisation, Consumption, 2019

Research paper thumbnail of Sheep wool across Eurasia

Textile and clothing along the silk Roads, 2022

Silk was one of the most luxurious commodities traded along the many routes of the Silk Roads. Bu... more Silk was one of the most luxurious commodities traded along the many routes of the Silk Roads. But one should not assume that only silks were traded, or that silks were the most important material for the living. Since the late nineteenth century, archaeologists have unearthed textile fragments made from many other fibres, such as linen, cotton, hemp, nettle, sheep wool, and other animal fibres, from sites stretching from Europe to Asia. The use of wool fabrics along the Silk Roads, as well as in many other areas in the Old World, was just as important as silk. Indeed, they were essential for survival in the diverse, harsh surroundings.

Research paper thumbnail of Sailmaking – A Gigantic Collective Undertaking

The Raid, 2021

Based on the exhibition "the Raid" at the National Museum of Denmark.

Research paper thumbnail of Old textiles – New Possibilities

Ancient Textile Production from an Interdisciplinary Perspective - Humanities and Natural Sciences Interwoven for Our Understanding of Textiles, 2022

Research paper thumbnail of La donna è mobile. Biographies of mobile women in ancient European societies

Vetus textrinum: Textiles in the Ancient World. Studies in Honour of Carmen Alfaro, 2018

This paper is offered to a highly mobile lady, Carmen Alfaro Giner. It builds on the authors’ lon... more This paper is offered to a highly mobile lady, Carmen Alfaro Giner. It builds on the authors’ long-term collaboration since 2006 and combines the archaeology of the Aegean, north European prehistory, and the Viking Age, along with philology, epigraphy, and geo-chemistry in order to deepen the understanding of the mobility of women and their textiles and textile technologies. This is done via four biographies of women of the past, written by four women of the present.

Research paper thumbnail of An Exceptional Woman from Birka

A Stitch in Time: Essays in Honour of Lise Bender Jørgensen, 2014

Archaeological textile research is a constantly evolving field of research, and in th... more Archaeological textile research is a constantly evolving field of research, and in this book and present article we honour Lise Bender Jørgensen, one of the key researchers in North European textile research. Th e impact of her impressive scholarly contributions during a lifetime spent in Danish, Swedish and Norwegian universities cannot be underestimated. Lise Bender Jørgensen is a true pioneer. She has introduced new standards and parameters for textile research, and in both her academic research and career has crossed the modern geographical borders that too often restrict true interdisciplinary and cross-cultural studies. Th rough the numerous excellent examples of textile analyses and methodologies published by Lise Bender Jørgensen an entire generation has been taught how to conduct archaeological textile research. The present authors have collaborated with Lise Bender Jørgensen in a variety of ways, most importantly in 2006 when Lise Bender Jørgensen was guest professor at the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research (CTR) in its first year.One of the highly crucial results that has emerged from the research conducted at CTR since 2005 is the increased focus on how scientific analysis can widen our perspectives of past technologies. Textile research is not merely the study of actual textile remains but covers all aspects of manufacture from producing the raw material of both skin and fibres to the final products, as well as examining iconography and literary sources with the help of theoretical and methodological perspectives. In this article we explore textiles from Viking Age Birka, an important trading and craft production centre that is considered to be one of Scandinavia’s earliest towns, in order to demonstrate the potential of textile research when applied to a material utilizing different approaches.

Research paper thumbnail of Tools, Textile Production and Society in Viking Age Birka

In M. Gleba, C. Munkholt and M.-L. Nosch (eds), Dressing the Past. Ancient Textiles Series 3, Oxbow Books, 2008

On book: "Minoan ladies, Scythian warriors, Roman and Sarmatian merchants, prehistoric weavers, g... more On book: "Minoan ladies, Scythian warriors, Roman and Sarmatian merchants, prehistoric weavers, gold sheet figures, Vikings, Medieval saints and sinners, Renaissance noblemen, Danish peasants, dressmakers and Hollywood stars appear in the pages of this anthology. This is not necessarily how they dressed in the past, but how the authors of this book think they dressed in the past, and why they think so. No reader of this book will ever look at a reconstructed costume in a museum or at a historical festival, or watch a film with a historic theme again without a heightened awareness of how, why, and from what sources, the costumes were reconstructed. The seventeen contributors come from a variety of disciplines: archaeologists, historians, curators with ethnological and anthropological backgrounds, designers, a weaver, a conservator and a scholar of fashion in cinema, are all specialists interested in ancient or historical dress who wish to share their knowledge and expertise with students, hobby enthusiasts and the general reader. The anthology is also recommended for use in teaching students at design schools."

Research paper thumbnail of Forhistorisk tekstilproduktion

Arkæologisk tekstilforskning, bakgrund og ny viden, 2017

Research paper thumbnail of Textile tools from Quartier Mu, Malia, Crete, Greece

Tools, textiles and contexts : textile production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze ... more Tools, textiles and contexts : textile production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age
edited by Eva Andersson Strand and Marie-Louise Nosch.
(Ancient textiles series; vol. 21)

Research paper thumbnail of Textile production in Quartier Mu

Fouilles exécutées à Malia. Le Quartier Mu V. Vie quotidienne et techniques au Minoen Moyen II. J-C. Poursat, with contributors. . (Études crètoises 34). Athens: École Française d'Athènes, 95-118. , 2013

Research paper thumbnail of Vikingetidens sejl

Arkeologiska skrifter. Saxo Institute, University of Copenhagen. Ravn, M., Gebauer Thomsen, L., Lyngstrøm, H. and Andersson Strand, E., 2016

Sails were crucial to Viking age voyages. The production of a sail was complex and included sever... more Sails were crucial to Viking age voyages. The production of a sail was complex and included several stages from fibre procurement to the finished product. Experiments and calculations based on Viking Age texts show that it would have taken several years for a single craftsperson to produce a large sail. Finds of textile tools and their context further indicate that the production of sails had been organized in different modes such as household industry or a putting out system. The production of sails was a necessary and important investment…

Research paper thumbnail of Production and Distribution

In Sarah-Grace Heller (ed.), Fashion in the Medieval Age (500-1450) A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion. Berg/Bloomsbury. Volume 2. , 2017

Textile production through the medieval period, and distribution channels.

Research paper thumbnail of Viking Textile Production

In J. Jesch and C. Lee (eds), Blackwell Encyclopedia of the Viking World. Nottingham., 2019

Research paper thumbnail of Viking dress

In J. Jesch and C. Lee (eds), Blackwell Encyclopedia of the Viking World. Nottingham., 2019

Research paper thumbnail of Textilproduktion i Löddeköpinge endast för husbehov?

In F. Svanberg and B. Söderberg (eds), Porten till Skåne, Löddeköpinge under järnålder och medeltid. Riksantikvarieämbetet. Lund. Arkeologiska undersökningar 32, 158-187. , 2000

Textile production in Löddeköpinge, Sweden, just for household needs?

Research paper thumbnail of Textile production in Scandinavia

In L. Bender Jørgensen, J. Banck-Burgess and A. Rast-Eicher (eds), Textilien aus Archäologie und Geschichte, Festschrift Klaus Tidow. Neumünster., 2003

Research paper thumbnail of Sweden

In M. Gleba and U. Mannering (eds), Textile and Textile Production in Europe. From prehistory to AD 400. Ancient Textiles Series 11, Oxbow Books, Oxford., 2012

There is evidence that ever since early prehistory, textiles have always had more than simply a u... more There is evidence that ever since early prehistory, textiles have always had more than simply a utilitarian function. Textiles express who we are - our gender, age, family affiliation, occupation, religion, ethnicity and social, political, economic and legal status. Besides expressing our identity, textiles protect us from the harsh conditions of the environment, whether as clothes or shelter. We use them at birth for swaddling, in illness as bandages and at death as shrouds. We use them to carry and contain people and things. We use them for subsistence to catch fish and animals and for transport as sails. In fact, textiles represent one of the earliest human craft technologies and they have always been a fundamental part of subsistence, economy and exchange. Textiles have an enormous potential in archaeological research to inform us of social, chronological and cultural aspects of ancient societies.
In archaeology, the study of textiles is often relegated to the marginalised zone of specialist and specialised subject and lack of dialogue between textile researchers and scholars in other fields means that as a resource, textiles are not used to their full potential or integrated into the overall interpretation of a particular site or broader aspects of human activity.

Textiles and Textile Production in Europe is a major new survey that aims to redress this. Twenty-three chapters collect and systematise essential information on textiles and textile production from sixteen European countries, resulting in an up-to-date and detailed sourcebook and an easily accessible overview of the development of European textile technology and economy from prehistory to AD 400.
All chapters have an introduction, give the chronological and cultural background and an overview of the material in question organised chronologically and thematically. The sources of information used by the authors are primarily textiles and textile tools recovered from archaeological contexts. In addition, other evidence for the study of ancient textile production, ranging from iconography to written sources to palaeobotanical and archaeozoological remains are included. The introduction gives a summary on textile preservation, analytical techniques and production sequence that provides a background for the terminology and issues discussed in the various chapters. Extensively illustrated, with over 200 colour illustrations, maps, chronologies and index, this will be an essential sourcebook not just for textile researchers but also the wider archaeological community.

Research paper thumbnail of Textile tools from Phaistos

in P. Milletello Festòs e Haghia Triada, Rinvenimenti Minori I: Materiale per la tessitura. (Revised edition) Padova. Bottega D’Erasmo, 2014

Research paper thumbnail of Textile production in Western Europe

In M. Carver and J. Klápště (eds), Western Medieval Archaeology 1200-1600. Cambridge., 2011

Research paper thumbnail of Textile

In Mary Harlow (ed.), Fashion in the Ancient World (500BC-500AD), A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion. Berg/Bloomsbury. Volume 1. , 2017

Research paper thumbnail of Introduction

Archaeological Textiles Review 60, 2018

Research paper thumbnail of Introduction

Archaeological Textiles Review 61, 2019

Research paper thumbnail of Introduction

Archaeological Textiles Review 62, 2020

Research paper thumbnail of Traditional Textile Craft 2nd edition 2018.pdf

In March 2014 a workshop was held at the Museum of Jordan in Amman, Jordan, to discuss, debate, a... more In March 2014 a workshop was held at the Museum of Jordan in Amman, Jordan, to discuss, debate, and experiment the questions which surround the roles of traditional textile crafts in the twenty-first century world. Scholars, practitioners and craftspeople from across the globe met to exchange ideas and learn from each other. This online publication is one of the outcomes of this project. Textile craft and textile design have always had important social, cultural and economic impacts on individuals and communities. The cultural heritage of textiles is a living tradition inherited from our ancestors and passed on to our descendants. It encompasses the knowledge and
skills to produce traditional crafts, and the language and terminologies used to describe both the activities and the material outcomes. All too often in the twenty-first
century, it enters the consciousness of a society primarily through its preservation in museums; our workshop aimed to heighten awareness of the active but often invisible work that continues and is still developing today. The workshop brought together archaeologists, anthropologists, artists, designers, heritage workers, conservators,
business enterprise advocates and craftspeople to examine and better understand the varied approaches, uses, theoretical frameworks and the practical realities of craft
creativity, labour and organisation. Discussions explored the use of traditional textile crafts across time and space enabling exchange of knowledge and insights into the range of agendas which surround traditional textile craft and heritage frameworks.
While the workshop was focused on particular aspects of tangibility and intangibility, two related issues ran as underlying themes: the interaction between the past and
the present and the need for open and continued dialogue between the different interest groups.

Research paper thumbnail of Traditional textile Craft – An intangible Cultural Heritage?

Traditional Textile Craft - An Intangible Cultural Heritage, 2018

Research paper thumbnail of Tools, Textiles and Contexts. Investigating Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age

Tools, Textiles and Contexts. Investigating Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age, 2015

Co-editor of the volume.

Research paper thumbnail of Textile Production and Consumption in the Ancient Near East Archaeology, Epigraphy, Iconography

Textile Production and Consumption in the Ancient Near East Archaeology, Epigraphy, Iconography, 2013

Nosch M.-L, Koefoed, H., and Andersson Strand, E. (eds) 2013, Textile Production and Consumption ... more Nosch M.-L, Koefoed, H., and Andersson Strand, E. (eds) 2013, Textile Production and Consumption in the Ancient Near East Archaeology, Epigraphy, Iconography. Ancient Textiles Series 12, Oxbow Books, Oxford. Peer reviewed

Research paper thumbnail of Préhistoire des Textiles au Proche-Orient/ Prehistory of Textiles in the Near East.

Paléorient 38.1-2 – 2012 Pluridisciplinaire Review of Prehistory and Protohistory of Southwestern and Central Asia, 2012

Breniquet C., Tengberg, M., Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L. (eds) 2012, Préhistoire des Tex... more Breniquet C., Tengberg, M., Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L. (eds) 2012, Préhistoire des Textiles au Proche-Orient/ Prehistory of Textiles in the Near East. Paléorient 38.1-2 – 2012 Pluridisciplinaire Review of Prehistory and Protohistory of Southwestern and Central Asia. Peer reviewed.

Research paper thumbnail of NESAT X, 10th North European symposium for Archaeological Textiles, Copenhagen 2008

NESAT X, 10th North European symposium for Archaeological Textiles, Copenhagen 2008, Ancient Textiles Series 5, Oxbow Books, Oxford., 2010

Andersson Strand, E., Gleba, M., Mannering, U., Ringgaard, M. and Munkholt, C. (eds), 2010 NESAT ... more Andersson Strand, E., Gleba, M., Mannering, U., Ringgaard, M. and Munkholt, C. (eds), 2010 NESAT X, 10th North European symposium for Archaeological Textiles, Copenhagen 2008, Ancient Textiles Series 5, Oxbow Books, Oxford. Peer reviewed.

Research paper thumbnail of Arkeologi och förmedling

Report Series No. 54., 1994

Andersson Strand, E., Dalhgren, M. and Jennbert, K. (eds) 1994, Arkeologi och förmedling. Lund, R... more Andersson Strand, E., Dalhgren, M. and Jennbert, K. (eds) 1994, Arkeologi och förmedling. Lund, Report Series No. 54.

Research paper thumbnail of Introduction

Danish Journal of Archaeology, 2016

Research paper thumbnail of Introduction

Danish Journal of Archaeology, 2015

Research paper thumbnail of Introduction

Danish Journal of Archaeology, 2014

Research paper thumbnail of Introduction

Danish Journal of Archaeology, 2013

https://doi.org/10.1080/21662282.2013.862367

Research paper thumbnail of Editorial

In Andersson Strand, E., Grömer, K., Malcolm-Davies, J., Mannering, U. and Rothe, U (eds), Archae... more In Andersson Strand, E., Grömer, K., Malcolm-Davies, J., Mannering, U. and Rothe, U (eds), Archaeological Textiles Review 59, 2017. Oxbow Books: Oxford.
The document includes a list of content.

Research paper thumbnail of Editorial

Danish Journal of Archaeology, 2012

Danish Archaeology in English: Velkommen til, or rather welcome to the first issue of the Danish... more Danish Archaeology in English:
Velkommen til, or rather welcome to the first issue of the Danish Journal of Archaeology! After many months of behind-the-scenes negotiations and work, we are pleased and proud to be able to present the first of many exciting volumes on what is moving and shaking in the discipline in Denmark and beyond. We, the editors, are not the only ones who have noticed a distinct lack of English-language, peer-reviewed outlets for Danish archaeology. Luckily, the Danish Agency for Culture agreed with us, and with their generous pump-priming funding, we are able to launch this new publication.

Research paper thumbnail of Review of symposium Silk in Ancient Greece and its resonance held in Athens September 19-22

Archaeological Textiles Review 60, 2019

Research paper thumbnail of Review of session Household textiles (and production) in and beyond Viking Age held at EAA 5 September Bern

Archaeological Textiles Review 60, 2019

Research paper thumbnail of Traditional Textile Craft - an Intangible Cultural Heritage? (webpage)

Web-page

https://www.traditionaltextilecraft.dk/ Textile craft and textile design have always had an impor... more https://www.traditionaltextilecraft.dk/
Textile craft and textile design have always had an important social, cultural and economic impact on both individuals and societies.
The cultural heritage of textiles does not end with preservation and collection of costumes and other textiles in museums.
It includes living traditions inherited from our ancestors and passed on to our descendants, knowledge and skills to produce traditional crafts, and the language and terminologies used to describe both the activities and the material outcomes.
Please see the webpage for blogs by Eva Andersson Strand

Research paper thumbnail of Review, Osebergfunnet.

Kulturhistorisk Museum, Universitetet i Oslo, Oslo 2006, Bind IV Tekstilene.In J. Laursen (ed.), KUML 2007, 286-290., 2007

Research paper thumbnail of Guldgubbernes dragter

In Sorte Muld, Bornholms Museum, Bornholm. 55-61., 2008

Research paper thumbnail of Dress Images on Gold-foil Figures

In C. Adamsen, U. Lund Hansen, F. O. Nielsen and M. Watt (eds), Sorte Muld, Wealth, Power and Religion at an Iron Age Central Settlement on Bornholm. Bornholms museer. 54-61., 2008

Sorte Muld on the Baltic island of Bornholm is unique in Danish archaeology. The settlement compl... more Sorte Muld on the Baltic island of Bornholm is unique in Danish archaeology. The settlement complex with its dark cultural soil is best known for its discovery of 2500 tiny gold-foil figurs from the 6th and 7th centuries. During the late part of the first millenium AD Sorte Muld was probably boath a royal seat and a cultic center.

Sorte Muld lies relatively undisturbed in an agricultural landscape with its large central core, surrounded by many smaller satellite settlements. The rich and varied finds show that it was a center with far-reaching contacts.

Dedicated efforts by professional and amateur archaeologists over the past 25 years have significantly increased our knowledge of this unique site. The book is an introduction th the many spectacular finds and also outlines the emerging wider perspectives on an elite iron Age community.

Research paper thumbnail of Fra fiber til stof – tekstilredskaber og tekstilteknologi

SFINX 35, 2012, nr. 1. Tema tekstiler. 4-8., 2012

Research paper thumbnail of Experimentelle Textilarchäologie, Methoden der Textilearchäologie.

In M. Tellenbach, R. Schultz and A Wieczorek (eds), Die Macht Der Toga, Dresscode im Römischen Weltreich. Publikation der Reiss-Engelhorn-Museen in Kooperation mit dem Roemer- und Pelizaeus-Museum, Mannheim, Band 56. 27-28., 2013

Research paper thumbnail of Fra får til stof

Research paper thumbnail of Inaugurated speech at the Scania Flax Center

Research paper thumbnail of Mochlos Technical Textile Tool Report.

Tools and Textiles – Texts and Contexts Research Program. The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen. , 2008

Research paper thumbnail of Phaistos, Crete, Technical Textile Tool Report

Tools and Textiles – Texts and Contexts Research Program. The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen, 2008

Research paper thumbnail of Asini, Greece, Technical Textile Tool Report.

Tools and Textiles – Texts and Contexts Research Program. The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen. , 2008

217 objects recorded, majority of tools dated to MH and LH, including spindle whorl, conulus, pie... more 217 objects recorded, majority of tools dated to MH and LH, including spindle whorl, conulus, pierced sherd, stone disc, loom weight, implement.
This report is a part of the project: Tools and Textiles – Texts and Contexts (TTTC).

Link to the report: https://ctr.hum.ku.dk/research-programmes-and-projects/previous-programmes-and-projects/tools/toolsreports/asine_technical_tools_report.pdf

See more about the TTTC-project at https://ctr.hum.ku.dk/research-programmes-and-projects/previous-programmes-and-projects/tools/

Research paper thumbnail of Midea, Greece, Technical Textile Tool Report

Tools and Textiles – Texts and Contexts Research Program. The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen., 2008

Research paper thumbnail of Tiryns, Greece, Technical Textile Tool Report

Tools and Textiles – Texts and Contexts Research Program. The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen. , 2008

Research paper thumbnail of Berbati, Greece, Technical Textile Tool Report

Tools and Textiles – Texts and Contexts Research Program. The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen, 2008

Research paper thumbnail of Dendra, Greece Technical Textile Tool Report

Tools and Textiles – Texts and Contexts Research Program. The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen, 2008

Research paper thumbnail of Call for Papers 'Ties that bind. Relationships between the movement of raw materials and the movement of artisanal knowledge across Europe 2000-1500 BC', EAA in Vilnius 2016

Recent developments in proveniencing methods, in particular analyses of stable isotopes, have pro... more Recent developments in proveniencing methods, in particular analyses of stable isotopes, have provided new insights into the movement of materials such as copper ore, wool and amber on the European continent during the dynamic 21st – 16th centuries BC. Today we are able to demonstrate that materials moved from A to B, but the maps fraught with arrows tell us little about what happens in the receiving context. In this session we would like to explore the implications of raw material movement from the perspective of the local artisans. How does the introduction of a new and previously unknown raw material, or objects made from that raw material, affect local artisans, who in many cases lack knowledge about how to manipulate it? One response visible in the archaeological record is skeuomorphism, where local artisans, lacking adequate access to the new material, imitate foreign forms in locally available raw material. This is often interpreted as an attempt to block the influx of new materials seen as a threat by local artisans. Another possible response for the local artisan is to gain the necessary knowledge in order to be able to manipulate the new material him/herself. A third possibility is that the new raw material is accompanied by artisans who are already familiar with its properties.
As raw material movement affects the whole continent, we hope to attract scholars from north to south and from east to west. We would like to gather concrete examples of the three possible responses we outline above, but welcome other possibilities as well.

Research paper thumbnail of Jens Christian Vesterskov Johansen (2. november 1949 - 26. april 2017)

Historisk Tidsskrift, Oct 6, 2017

Research paper thumbnail of Traditional Textile Craft 2nd edition 2018.pdf

In March 2014 a workshop was held at the Museum of Jordan in Amman, Jordan, to discuss, debate, a... more In March 2014 a workshop was held at the Museum of Jordan in Amman, Jordan, to discuss, debate, and experiment the questions which surround the roles of traditional textile crafts in the twenty-first century world. Scholars, practitioners and craftspeople from across the globe met to exchange ideas and learn from each other. This online publication is one of the outcomes of this project. Textile craft and textile design have always had important social, cultural and economic impacts on individuals and communities. The cultural heritage of textiles is a living tradition inherited from our ancestors and passed on to our descendants. It encompasses the knowledge and skills to produce traditional crafts, and the language and terminologies used to describe both the activities and the material outcomes. All too often in the twenty-first century, it enters the consciousness of a society primarily through its preservation in museums; our workshop aimed to heighten awareness of the active but often invisible work that continues and is still developing today. The workshop brought together archaeologists, anthropologists, artists, designers, heritage workers, conservators, business enterprise advocates and craftspeople to examine and better understand the varied approaches, uses, theoretical frameworks and the practical realities of craft creativity, labour and organisation. Discussions explored the use of traditional textile crafts across time and space enabling exchange of knowledge and insights into the range of agendas which surround traditional textile craft and heritage frameworks. While the workshop was focused on particular aspects of tangibility and intangibility, two related issues ran as underlying themes: the interaction between the past and the present and the need for open and continued dialogue between the different interest groups.

Research paper thumbnail of Textiles

Research paper thumbnail of Introduction au dossier «Préhistoire des Textiles au Proche-Orient» / Introduction to the file “Prehistory of Textiles in the Near East”

Paléorient, 2012

Andersson Strand Eva, Breniquet Catherine, Nosch Marie-Louise, Tengberg Margareta. Introduction a... more Andersson Strand Eva, Breniquet Catherine, Nosch Marie-Louise, Tengberg Margareta. Introduction au dossier «Préhistoire des Textiles au Proche-Orient» / Introduction to the file “Prehistory of Textiles in the Near East”. In: Paléorient, 2012, vol. 38, n°1-2. pp. 13-20

Research paper thumbnail of The Wool Zone in Prehistory and Protohistory

Cambridge University Press eBooks, Nov 21, 2019

Research paper thumbnail of Old Textiles – New Possibilities. Ten Years on

Interdisciplinary contributions to archaeology, 2022

Research paper thumbnail of Experimental testing of Bronze Age textile tools

Research paper thumbnail of Erratum: Old textiles - New possibilities (European Journal of Archaeology (2010) 13, 2 (149-173) DOI: 10.1177/1461957110365513)

European Journal of Archaeology, 2010

Research paper thumbnail of Old Textiles – New Possibilities. Ten Years on

Ancient Textile Production from an Interdisciplinary Perspective

Research paper thumbnail of Textile tools from Tiryns , mainland Greece

Research paper thumbnail of Travels, Transmissions and Transformations - and Textiles

Counterpoint: Essays in Archaeology and Heritage Studies in Honour of Professor Kristian Kristiansen, 2013

This paper follows the path forged by Kristian Kristiansen in his scholarship on ‘Travels, Transm... more This paper follows the path forged by Kristian Kristiansen in his scholarship on ‘Travels, Transmissions and Transformations’. Specifically, this investigation into Bronze Age textiles, skins, tools and techniques from Denmark, which also incorporates the strontiumisotope tracing system and textual evidence from the Mediterranean and Near East, adds the textile dimension to his impressive scholarly contribution. The various aspects of textiles highlight and demonstrate both similarities and differences in the archaeological record in the areas investigated. Even if it is not possible to make direct comparisons between southern and northern Europe in the Bronze Age, the various results clearly inspire and provide significant new insights into the production and consumption of textiles and the rise of Bronze Age societies.

Research paper thumbnail of Guldgubbernes dragter

Research paper thumbnail of Forhistorisk tekstilproduktion

Research paper thumbnail of New research on Bronze Age textile production

"Tools and Textiles - Texts and Contests is an international and... more "Tools and Textiles - Texts and Contests is an international and interdisciplinary research programme hosted by the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research (CTR) in 2005-10. The aim is to investigate textile production in the Aegean, Anatolia and in the Levant during the Bronze Age. The programme gathers a wide range of specialists such as prehistoric archaeologists, classical archaeologists, craftspeople, historians and philologists. Our reason for choosing this focus area is the complexity and variety of sources: textile tools, inscriptions with extensive records on production management, glyptic, frescoes and relief iconography in which various types of dress occur, as well as remains of archaeological textiles."

Research paper thumbnail of Textile production in the late Roman Iron Age - a Case Study of Textile Production in Vorbasse, Denmark

Textiles have an enormous potential in archaeological research as it enables knowledge about both... more Textiles have an enormous potential in archaeological research as it enables knowledge about both social and cultural aspects of ancient societies, as well as giv­ing us a unique opportunity to come close to the prehistoric individual. A textile is not simply a binary system of spun, plied or spliced fibres, but first and foremost a result of complex interactions between re­sources, technology and society. The cata­lysts for this interaction are the need, de­sire and demand of the society in question, which in turn influence the exploitation of resources and technological development. Conversely, the availability of resources and the state of technology condition the societal choices and developments. The totality of these interactions is expressed through textile production.

Research paper thumbnail of Editorial Vol 1

Research paper thumbnail of Editorial Vol 3

Research paper thumbnail of Traditional Textile Craft 2nd edition 2018.pdf

In March 2014 a workshop was held at the Museum of Jordan in Amman, Jordan, to discuss, debate, a... more In March 2014 a workshop was held at the Museum of Jordan in Amman, Jordan, to discuss, debate, and experiment the questions which surround the roles of traditional textile crafts in the twenty-first century world. Scholars, practitioners and craftspeople from across the globe met to exchange ideas and learn from each other. This online publication is one of the outcomes of this project. Textile craft and textile design have always had important social, cultural and economic impacts on individuals and communities. The cultural heritage of textiles is a living tradition inherited from our ancestors and passed on to our descendants. It encompasses the knowledge and skills to produce traditional crafts, and the language and terminologies used to describe both the activities and the material outcomes. All too often in the twenty-first century, it enters the consciousness of a society primarily through its preservation in museums; our workshop aimed to heighten awareness of the active but often invisible work that continues and is still developing today. The workshop brought together archaeologists, anthropologists, artists, designers, heritage workers, conservators, business enterprise advocates and craftspeople to examine and better understand the varied approaches, uses, theoretical frameworks and the practical realities of craft creativity, labour and organisation. Discussions explored the use of traditional textile crafts across time and space enabling exchange of knowledge and insights into the range of agendas which surround traditional textile craft and heritage frameworks. While the workshop was focused on particular aspects of tangibility and intangibility, two related issues ran as underlying themes: the interaction between the past and the present and the need for open and continued dialogue between the different interest groups.

Research paper thumbnail of An exceptional woman from Birka

Archaeological textile research is a constantly evolving field of research, and in this book and ... more Archaeological textile research is a constantly evolving field of research, and in this book and present article we honour Lise Bender Jørgensen, one of the key researchers in North European textile research. Th e impact of her impressive scholarly contributions during a lifetime spent in Danish, Swedish and Norwegian universities cannot be underestimated. Lise Bender Jørgensen is a true pioneer. She has introduced new standards and parameters for textile research, and in both her academic research and career has crossed the modern geographical borders that too often restrict true interdisciplinary and cross-cultural studies. Th rough the numerous excellent examples of textile analyses and methodologies published by Lise Bender Jørgensen an entire generation has been taught how to conduct archaeological textile research. The present authors have collaborated with Lise Bender Jørgensen in a variety of ways, most importantly in 2006 when Lise Bender Jørgensen was guest professor at the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research (CTR) in its first year.One of the highly crucial results that has emerged from the research conducted at CTR since 2005 is the increased focus on how scientific analysis can widen our perspectives of past technologies. Textile research is not merely the study of actual textile remains but covers all aspects of manufacture from producing the raw material of both skin and fibres to the final products, as well as examining iconography and literary sources with the help of theoretical and methodological perspectives. In this article we explore textiles from Viking Age Birka, an important trading and craft production centre that is considered to be one of Scandinavia’s earliest towns, in order to demonstrate the potential of textile research when applied to a material utilizing different approaches.

Research paper thumbnail of Préhistoire des textiles au Proche-Orient

Le Centre pour la Communication Scientifique Directe - HAL - SHS, 2012

International audienc

Research paper thumbnail of THE FULL VOLUME 1. Viking Wars. F. Iversen & K. Kjesrud (Eds.) 2021. Viking special volume 1, 13 articles, pp. 294

by Frode Iversen, Karoline Kjesrud, Frippe S, Marianne Moen, Thorsten Lemm, M. Taube, Beñat Elortza Larrea, Judith Jesch, Eva Andersson Strand, Christian Cooijmans, Laila Kitzler Åhfeldt, Joseph Thomas Ryder, Csete Katona, Anne Irene Riisøy, and Anne Risøy

VIKING WARS, 2021

The Norwegian Archaeological Society is proud to present the very first special Viking volume: VI... more The Norwegian Archaeological Society is proud to present the very first special Viking volume: VIKING WARS. The 13 articles presented in this publication represent some of the latest, and most relevant research on Viking warfare from the Viking and early Scandinavian medieval period in Europe.

The Vikings fought for power, wealth, and land in many areas of the Northern hemisphere, and left traces of their activities from Canada in the West to the Caucasus in the East. In many parts of Europe visual, literary, and material culture contain influences of past Viking activities.

This volume offers new insights on Viking female warriors; local defense systems; a Danish-Obodrite attack on a Frankish fortress; deeply rooted traditions relating to weapon production; viking encampments in Atlantic Europe; rune carvers in campaign; textiles essential for sea journeys, and related warfare; the symbolic power of weapons; the roles of Rus’ captives and slave soldiers; as well as the relationship between Viking and Norse settlers, and the local Picts of the Western Isles.

Viking Special Volume 1 is co-funded by the Centre for Viking-Age Studies (ViS) and the Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo.