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Papers by Amanda Phillips
A Companion to Early Modern Istanbul, ed. Hamadeh & Kafescioğlu, 2021
...bits and pieces of the chapter, including textiles, ceramics, and a hilye.
Evaluates and describes written accounts of the culture of hil'at in the Ottoman Empire in the la... more Evaluates and describes written accounts of the culture of hil'at in the Ottoman Empire in the larger context with specific reference to how the robes are both intensely personal and exchanged or sold as undifferentiated trade goods.
This is a digital offprint for restricted use only |
This working paper examines seven Ottoman silk velvets in the collection of the Doris Duke Founda... more This working paper examines seven Ottoman silk velvets in the collection of the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art. The first part of the essay investigates how the textiles were used in their primary contexts during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. It then moves on to consider their use in the twentieth century-namely by Doris Duke as she realized her vision for Shangri La. The second and longer portion of the paper considers how the textiles were produced. The seven objects are unified by some material and aesthetic features, but they also exemplify the range found in a single category of object. This section also provides comparanda and dating for the textiles, and places them in the larger continuum of Ottoman silk weaving.
Journal of Art Historiography, 6, Jun 2012
Proceedings from the 13th International Congress of Turkish Art, Budapest, 2010
Books by Amanda Phillips
Sea Change: Ottoman Textiles Between the Mediterranean and Indian Ocean, 2021
Textiles were the second-most-traded commodity in all of world history, preceded only by grain. I... more Textiles were the second-most-traded commodity in all of world history, preceded only by grain. In the Ottoman Empire in particular, the sale and exchange of silks, cottons, and woolens generated an immense amount of revenue and touched every level of society, from rural women tending silkworms to pashas flaunting layers of watered camlet to merchants traveling to Mecca and beyond. Sea Change offers the first comprehensive history of the Ottoman textile sector, arguing that the trade's enduring success resulted from its openness to expertise and objects from far-flung locations. Amanda Phillips skillfully marries art history with social and economic history, integrating formal analysis of various textiles into wider discussions of how trade, technology, and migration impacted the production and consumption of textiles in the Mediterranean from around 1400 to 1800. Surveying a vast network of textile topographies that stretched from India to Italy and from Egypt to Iran, Sea Change illuminates often neglected aspects of material culture, showcasing the objects' ability to tell new kinds of stories.
Conference by Amanda Phillips
by Nikolaos Vryzidis, Amanda Phillips, Jacopo Gnisci, Anna Ballian, Vera-Simone Schulz, Dickran Kouymjian, MARIA SARDI, Elena Papastavrou, LAURA RODRIGUEZ PEINADO, Marielle Martiniani-Reber, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente
Textiles & Identity in the Medieval and Εarly Modern Mediterranean: paradigms of contexts and cro... more Textiles & Identity in the Medieval and Εarly Modern Mediterranean: paradigms of contexts and cross-cultural exchanges
Textiles offer a rich opportunity to explore the projection of identity, both within and between social and cultural groups. A pertinent arena for such an exploration is the intercultural region of the Mediterranean. This workshop will bring together a group of junior and senior scholars to investigate and elucidate the role of textiles in the cultures of the Medieval and early Modern Mediterranean, and its periphery, with a focus on specific case studies. Our investigation will analyze textiles as tools for projecting identity within specific contexts, whether cross-cultural or not. Institutionalized practices of textile use and reuse, written and unwritten rules governing ceremonial use, the departure from standard practices, the active reception of imports and their interpretation will form the major topics examined by the participating scholars. Our directed investigation will seek to identity parallels and points of contact between the use of textiles in various political entities, and among social groups and cultures.
Program
3 June 2016
Venue: Museum of Islamic Art, 22 Ag. Asomaton & 12 Dipylou St., Athens
Welcoming remarks
9:30 John Bennet, British School at Athens
9:40 Mina Moraitou, Benaki Museum
Opening remarks
9:50 Nikolaos Vryzidis, British School at Athens
1. Medieval Islamic textiles in the Eastern Mediterranean
10:00 Alison Ohta, Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain & Ireland: Chair
10:10 Scott Redford, SOAS-University of London: ‘Seljuk silks, standards and emblems’
10:30 Marielle Martiniani-Reber, Musées d’Art et d’Histoire de Genève: ‘The relationship between Islamic and Byzantine textiles during the Middle Byzantine period’
10: 50 Maria Sardi, SOAS-University of London: ‘Towards a standardization of Mamluk aesthetic: influences and identity as reflected on textiles’
11:10 Discussion
11:30 Coffee break
2. Western Mediterranean cross-cultural encounters
11:40 Mina Moraitou, Benaki Museum: Chair
11: 50 Ana Cabrera, Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas & Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Universidad Complutense de Madrid: ‘Medieval Textiles from the Iberian Peninsula: state of the art and new approaches of study’
12:20 Vera-Simone Schulz, Kunsthistorisches Institut in Florenz: ‘Entangled Identities: Textiles and the Art and Architecture of the Italian Peninsula in a Mediterranean Perspective’
12:40 Discussion
13:00 Lunch break
3. The multi-cultural Ottoman Empire
14:00 Helen Philon, Independent scholar: Chair
14:10 Anna Ballian, Benaki Museum (Emerita): ‘Chios silks’
14:30 Amanda Philips, University of Virginia: ‘Interventions in technology and fashion: the case of Ottoman compound weaves’
14:50 Elena Papastavrou, Hellenic Ministry of Culture & Sports: ‘Greek-Orthodox cultural identity as reflected on Constantinopolitan Church Embroidery’
15:10 Discussion
15:30 Coffee break
4. Eastern and Oriental Orthodox Christian textiles
15:40 Warren Woodfin, City University of New York: Chair
15:50 Dickran Kouymjian, California State University-Fresno (Emeritus): ‘Armenian Altar Curtains: Repository of Tradition and Innovation’
16:10 Nikolaos Vryzidis, British School at Athens: ‘Animal motifs on Asian silks used by the Greek Church: an afterlife of Byzantine iconography?’
16: 30 Jacopo Gnisci, Independent scholar: ‘Towards a History of Ecclesiastical Dress in Early Solomonic Ethiopia’
16:50 Discussion
General discussion and concluding remarks
17:10 Nikolaos Vryzidis, British School at Athens
End
4 June 2016
Study day (attendance by invitation only)
10:00-13:00 Handling session (Benaki Museum Peiraios annex), hosted by Mina Moraitou
15:00 Museum visit (Benaki Museum main building), hosted by Anastasia Drandaki
End
Book Reviews by Amanda Phillips
Talks by Amanda Phillips
Call for applications! Current graduate students are invited to attend a one-day workshop about w... more Call for applications! Current graduate students are invited to attend a one-day workshop about what we can learn from, and about, textiles, from the Iron Age to the nineteenth century, from dye analysis to high Ottoman fashion. Speakers include curators, scientists, conservators and academics in the field focusing mostly on the material heritage of Anatolia.
Talk @ Orient-Institut, Istanbul, 9 October
A Companion to Early Modern Istanbul, ed. Hamadeh & Kafescioğlu, 2021
...bits and pieces of the chapter, including textiles, ceramics, and a hilye.
Evaluates and describes written accounts of the culture of hil'at in the Ottoman Empire in the la... more Evaluates and describes written accounts of the culture of hil'at in the Ottoman Empire in the larger context with specific reference to how the robes are both intensely personal and exchanged or sold as undifferentiated trade goods.
This is a digital offprint for restricted use only |
This working paper examines seven Ottoman silk velvets in the collection of the Doris Duke Founda... more This working paper examines seven Ottoman silk velvets in the collection of the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art. The first part of the essay investigates how the textiles were used in their primary contexts during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. It then moves on to consider their use in the twentieth century-namely by Doris Duke as she realized her vision for Shangri La. The second and longer portion of the paper considers how the textiles were produced. The seven objects are unified by some material and aesthetic features, but they also exemplify the range found in a single category of object. This section also provides comparanda and dating for the textiles, and places them in the larger continuum of Ottoman silk weaving.
Journal of Art Historiography, 6, Jun 2012
Proceedings from the 13th International Congress of Turkish Art, Budapest, 2010
Sea Change: Ottoman Textiles Between the Mediterranean and Indian Ocean, 2021
Textiles were the second-most-traded commodity in all of world history, preceded only by grain. I... more Textiles were the second-most-traded commodity in all of world history, preceded only by grain. In the Ottoman Empire in particular, the sale and exchange of silks, cottons, and woolens generated an immense amount of revenue and touched every level of society, from rural women tending silkworms to pashas flaunting layers of watered camlet to merchants traveling to Mecca and beyond. Sea Change offers the first comprehensive history of the Ottoman textile sector, arguing that the trade's enduring success resulted from its openness to expertise and objects from far-flung locations. Amanda Phillips skillfully marries art history with social and economic history, integrating formal analysis of various textiles into wider discussions of how trade, technology, and migration impacted the production and consumption of textiles in the Mediterranean from around 1400 to 1800. Surveying a vast network of textile topographies that stretched from India to Italy and from Egypt to Iran, Sea Change illuminates often neglected aspects of material culture, showcasing the objects' ability to tell new kinds of stories.
by Nikolaos Vryzidis, Amanda Phillips, Jacopo Gnisci, Anna Ballian, Vera-Simone Schulz, Dickran Kouymjian, MARIA SARDI, Elena Papastavrou, LAURA RODRIGUEZ PEINADO, Marielle Martiniani-Reber, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente
Textiles & Identity in the Medieval and Εarly Modern Mediterranean: paradigms of contexts and cro... more Textiles & Identity in the Medieval and Εarly Modern Mediterranean: paradigms of contexts and cross-cultural exchanges
Textiles offer a rich opportunity to explore the projection of identity, both within and between social and cultural groups. A pertinent arena for such an exploration is the intercultural region of the Mediterranean. This workshop will bring together a group of junior and senior scholars to investigate and elucidate the role of textiles in the cultures of the Medieval and early Modern Mediterranean, and its periphery, with a focus on specific case studies. Our investigation will analyze textiles as tools for projecting identity within specific contexts, whether cross-cultural or not. Institutionalized practices of textile use and reuse, written and unwritten rules governing ceremonial use, the departure from standard practices, the active reception of imports and their interpretation will form the major topics examined by the participating scholars. Our directed investigation will seek to identity parallels and points of contact between the use of textiles in various political entities, and among social groups and cultures.
Program
3 June 2016
Venue: Museum of Islamic Art, 22 Ag. Asomaton & 12 Dipylou St., Athens
Welcoming remarks
9:30 John Bennet, British School at Athens
9:40 Mina Moraitou, Benaki Museum
Opening remarks
9:50 Nikolaos Vryzidis, British School at Athens
1. Medieval Islamic textiles in the Eastern Mediterranean
10:00 Alison Ohta, Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain & Ireland: Chair
10:10 Scott Redford, SOAS-University of London: ‘Seljuk silks, standards and emblems’
10:30 Marielle Martiniani-Reber, Musées d’Art et d’Histoire de Genève: ‘The relationship between Islamic and Byzantine textiles during the Middle Byzantine period’
10: 50 Maria Sardi, SOAS-University of London: ‘Towards a standardization of Mamluk aesthetic: influences and identity as reflected on textiles’
11:10 Discussion
11:30 Coffee break
2. Western Mediterranean cross-cultural encounters
11:40 Mina Moraitou, Benaki Museum: Chair
11: 50 Ana Cabrera, Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas & Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Universidad Complutense de Madrid: ‘Medieval Textiles from the Iberian Peninsula: state of the art and new approaches of study’
12:20 Vera-Simone Schulz, Kunsthistorisches Institut in Florenz: ‘Entangled Identities: Textiles and the Art and Architecture of the Italian Peninsula in a Mediterranean Perspective’
12:40 Discussion
13:00 Lunch break
3. The multi-cultural Ottoman Empire
14:00 Helen Philon, Independent scholar: Chair
14:10 Anna Ballian, Benaki Museum (Emerita): ‘Chios silks’
14:30 Amanda Philips, University of Virginia: ‘Interventions in technology and fashion: the case of Ottoman compound weaves’
14:50 Elena Papastavrou, Hellenic Ministry of Culture & Sports: ‘Greek-Orthodox cultural identity as reflected on Constantinopolitan Church Embroidery’
15:10 Discussion
15:30 Coffee break
4. Eastern and Oriental Orthodox Christian textiles
15:40 Warren Woodfin, City University of New York: Chair
15:50 Dickran Kouymjian, California State University-Fresno (Emeritus): ‘Armenian Altar Curtains: Repository of Tradition and Innovation’
16:10 Nikolaos Vryzidis, British School at Athens: ‘Animal motifs on Asian silks used by the Greek Church: an afterlife of Byzantine iconography?’
16: 30 Jacopo Gnisci, Independent scholar: ‘Towards a History of Ecclesiastical Dress in Early Solomonic Ethiopia’
16:50 Discussion
General discussion and concluding remarks
17:10 Nikolaos Vryzidis, British School at Athens
End
4 June 2016
Study day (attendance by invitation only)
10:00-13:00 Handling session (Benaki Museum Peiraios annex), hosted by Mina Moraitou
15:00 Museum visit (Benaki Museum main building), hosted by Anastasia Drandaki
End
Call for applications! Current graduate students are invited to attend a one-day workshop about w... more Call for applications! Current graduate students are invited to attend a one-day workshop about what we can learn from, and about, textiles, from the Iron Age to the nineteenth century, from dye analysis to high Ottoman fashion. Speakers include curators, scientists, conservators and academics in the field focusing mostly on the material heritage of Anatolia.
Talk @ Orient-Institut, Istanbul, 9 October