Textiles in Italo-Turkish Relations: From the Past to the Present, in Motta and Biagini (eds) "Fashion through History: Costumes, Symbols, Communication (Volume II)", Cambridge Scholars Publishing, Newcastle, 2017 pp. 59-69. (original) (raw)
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THE IDEAS ABOUT OTTOMANS IN ITALY DURING THE 15 TH AND 16 TH CENTURIES: THE STUDY THROUGH TEXTILES
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The article is an attempt to supplement the knowledge of Italians' ideas about Ottomans during the 15th and 16th centuries, using the preserved antique textiles of both cultures, as well as fabrics’ mentions in written and visual sources. Modern technological research methods of ancient textiles make it possible to clarify their attributive data, which in turn contributes to more definite conclusions about artistic exchanges in the field of decoration of expensive textiles. Thus, for example, it turned out that two fabrics from the collection of the Khanenko Museum, which were considered Italian, are the work of Ottoman masters. If the structure of the Italian and Ottoman fabrics of the period under the study are quite different, visually – they are often almost identical. Despite the fact that the trade in Ottoman fabrics was not widespread in Italy during the 15th and 16th centuries, Italian painters and weavers still actively imitated the textile products of Western Asia. Written sources, especially epistolary and inventory, are also filled with references to Ottoman fabrics and "turkish-style" textiles. Since there were few authentic silks from West Asia in the secular space of Italian cities at the time, it is likely that citizens could even associate with Ottoman culture certain types of local textiles that looked like "Turkish". The number and peculiarities of their description in written sources suggest the Italians' enormous interest in Ottoman culture, "cautious concern" in growing Ottoman Empire, and recognition of its dominance over many Asian peoples. All this took place in spite of the permanent wars between the Venetian Republic and the Ottomans. The entry into Italian fashion of fabrics "in the Turkish style" was lightning fast. However, local authors emphasized the antiquity of this fashion tradition, to some extent rooting the idea of kinship between the two cultures.
European History Yearbook. Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe, ed by Aust, C., Klein, D., Weller, T., 2019
Abstract: Descriptions of material culture offer a point of entry into the circulation of textual and visual knowledge from the Ottoman to the French Empire and Italy in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. This article analyzes, discusses, and connects three different sources: Ignatius Mouradgea d’Ohsson’s Tableau général de l’Empire Ottoman (1787–1820), Giulio Ferrario’s Il costume antico e moderno (1817–1834) and Carolina Lattanzi’s Il Corriere delle Dame(1804–1874). The texts shed light on the fashion for cashmere shawls and cashmere cloth imported from India to the Ottoman Empire and Europe in the Napoleonic era. They also outline the crucial role of translation from Turkish to French and Italian as well as the role of dragomans, printers, engravers and editors in spreading the culture of fashion.
Textiles & Identity in the Medieval and Early Modern Mediterranean
Vera-Simone Schulz, Amanda Phillips, Nikolaos Vryzidis, Elena Papastavrou, Dickran Kouymjian, LAURA RODRIGUEZ PEINADO, Anna Ballian, Marielle Martiniani-Reber, MARIA SARDI, Ana Cabrera Lafuente, Jacopo Gnisci
Textiles & Identity in the Medieval and Εarly Modern Mediterranean: paradigms of contexts and cross-cultural exchanges Textiles offer a rich opportunity to explore the projection of identity, both within and between social and cultural groups. A pertinent arena for such an exploration is the intercultural region of the Mediterranean. This workshop will bring together a group of junior and senior scholars to investigate and elucidate the role of textiles in the cultures of the Medieval and early Modern Mediterranean, and its periphery, with a focus on specific case studies. Our investigation will analyze textiles as tools for projecting identity within specific contexts, whether cross-cultural or not. Institutionalized practices of textile use and reuse, written and unwritten rules governing ceremonial use, the departure from standard practices, the active reception of imports and their interpretation will form the major topics examined by the participating scholars. Our directed investigation will seek to identity parallels and points of contact between the use of textiles in various political entities, and among social groups and cultures. Program 3 June 2016 Venue: Museum of Islamic Art, 22 Ag. Asomaton & 12 Dipylou St., Athens Welcoming remarks 9:30 John Bennet, British School at Athens 9:40 Mina Moraitou, Benaki Museum Opening remarks 9:50 Nikolaos Vryzidis, British School at Athens 1. Medieval Islamic textiles in the Eastern Mediterranean 10:00 Alison Ohta, Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain & Ireland: Chair 10:10 Scott Redford, SOAS-University of London: ‘Seljuk silks, standards and emblems’ 10:30 Marielle Martiniani-Reber, Musées d’Art et d’Histoire de Genève: ‘The relationship between Islamic and Byzantine textiles during the Middle Byzantine period’ 10: 50 Maria Sardi, SOAS-University of London: ‘Towards a standardization of Mamluk aesthetic: influences and identity as reflected on textiles’ 11:10 Discussion 11:30 Coffee break 2. Western Mediterranean cross-cultural encounters 11:40 Mina Moraitou, Benaki Museum: Chair 11: 50 Ana Cabrera, Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas & Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Universidad Complutense de Madrid: ‘Medieval Textiles from the Iberian Peninsula: state of the art and new approaches of study’ 12:20 Vera-Simone Schulz, Kunsthistorisches Institut in Florenz: ‘Entangled Identities: Textiles and the Art and Architecture of the Italian Peninsula in a Mediterranean Perspective’ 12:40 Discussion 13:00 Lunch break 3. The multi-cultural Ottoman Empire 14:00 Helen Philon, Independent scholar: Chair 14:10 Anna Ballian, Benaki Museum (Emerita): ‘Chios silks’ 14:30 Amanda Philips, University of Virginia: ‘Interventions in technology and fashion: the case of Ottoman compound weaves’ 14:50 Elena Papastavrou, Hellenic Ministry of Culture & Sports: ‘Greek-Orthodox cultural identity as reflected on Constantinopolitan Church Embroidery’ 15:10 Discussion 15:30 Coffee break 4. Eastern and Oriental Orthodox Christian textiles 15:40 Warren Woodfin, City University of New York: Chair 15:50 Dickran Kouymjian, California State University-Fresno (Emeritus): ‘Armenian Altar Curtains: Repository of Tradition and Innovation’ 16:10 Nikolaos Vryzidis, British School at Athens: ‘Animal motifs on Asian silks used by the Greek Church: an afterlife of Byzantine iconography?’ 16: 30 Jacopo Gnisci, Independent scholar: ‘Towards a History of Ecclesiastical Dress in Early Solomonic Ethiopia’ 16:50 Discussion General discussion and concluding remarks 17:10 Nikolaos Vryzidis, British School at Athens End 4 June 2016 Study day (attendance by invitation only) 10:00-13:00 Handling session (Benaki Museum Peiraios annex), hosted by Mina Moraitou 15:00 Museum visit (Benaki Museum main building), hosted by Anastasia Drandaki End
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“The Empire of Fabrics: The Range of Fabrics in the Ottoman Gift Traffic (16th-18th Centuries)”
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Fashion: The Culture Economy of Made in Italy
The article examines the concept of Made in Italy in the context of the long history of Italian Fashion and Italian nation building. It wishes to pose some methodological questions: it argues for a more sophisticated understanding of Made in Italy, suggesting that it must be considered in relation to the complexity of the formation of an Italian Style...
Introduction to Focused Issue: History of Textiles and Fashion
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
The introduction to the focused issue draws attention to research in the history of textiles and fashion among International Textile and Apparel Association members. It is divided into three parts: the past, the present, and the future. In the first section, a review of the history of dress and textiles under the umbrella of “clothing and textiles” is provided. In the section on the present, a snapshot is given of the current situation now that dress and textile history has been accepted by a wide range of academic disciplines. Finally, suggestions are offered to move the historic area forward in the journal and the organization.