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Phulkari (Punjabi: ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀ) refers to the folk embroidery of the Punjab. Although Phulkari means floral work, the designs include not only flowers but also cover motifs and geometrical shapes. The main characteristics of Phulkari embroidery are use of darn stitch on the wrong side of coarse cotton cloth with coloured silken thread. Punjabi women create innumerable alluring and interesting designs and patterns by their skilful manipulation of the darn stitch. According to Kehal (2009), a cloth where only a few flowers are embroidered is called a Phulkari. The other types are distinct varieties. The traditional varieties of Phulkaris are large items of cloth and include Chope, Tilpatr, Neelak and Bagh. Sometimes, the Bagh is given separate categorization of its own as on other varieties of a

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dbo:abstract Phulkari (Punjabi: ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀ) refers to the folk embroidery of the Punjab. Although Phulkari means floral work, the designs include not only flowers but also cover motifs and geometrical shapes. The main characteristics of Phulkari embroidery are use of darn stitch on the wrong side of coarse cotton cloth with coloured silken thread. Punjabi women create innumerable alluring and interesting designs and patterns by their skilful manipulation of the darn stitch. According to Kehal (2009), a cloth where only a few flowers are embroidered is called a Phulkari. The other types are distinct varieties. The traditional varieties of Phulkaris are large items of cloth and include Chope, Tilpatr, Neelak and Bagh. Sometimes, the Bagh is given separate categorization of its own as on other varieties of a Phulkari, parts of the cloth is visible, whereas in a Bagh, the embroidery covers the entire garment so that the base cloth is not visible. Further, in contemporary modern designs, simple and sparsely embroidered dupattas (long scarf), odhinis (oversized long scarf), and shawls, made for everyday use, are referred to as phulkaris, whereas clothing items that cover the entire body, made for special and ceremonial occasions such as weddings are called baghs (large garden). The Phulkari continues to be an integral part of Punjabi weddings to the present day. The craft of Phulkari has undergone changes over the centuries. According to Pal (1960) in his seminal essay on the history and use of the Phulkari published by Patiala University, the traditional method of embroidering a Phulkari and its widespread use in Punjab, India declined by the 1950s. Traditionally, women would embroider Phulkaris without using stencils. Pal (1960) states that women would clean their courtyards and invite friends and family to ceremonially begin the process of embroidering a Phulkari. Folk songs would be sung on this occasion. "Ih Phulkari Meri Maan Ne Kadhi/ Is Noo Ghut Ghut Japhiyan Paawan" (This Phulkari was embroidered by my mother, I embrace it warmly). Folk songs like these are indicative of the emotional attachment the girl had to the Phulkari embroidered by her mother or grandmother, or aunts. According to Blurton (2003), "angular satin-stitch baghs (shawls) and phulkaris (shawls similar to baghs, but less heavily embroidered)" up to 20 pieces would form part of a brides dowry. The items would be gifted by the bride's father, uncles and mother-in-law. Blurton further states that it took many years for the baghs and phulkaris to be embroidered. Traditionally women would begin to embroider the bhagh when their grandsons were born to be give to their future brides. Accordingly, in the past, as soon as a girl was born, mothers and grandmothers would start embroidering Baghs and Phulkaris, which were to be given away at the time of marriage. Depending on the status of the family, the parents would give dowry of 11 to 101 Baghs and Phulkaris. It was also passed from one generation to the next as an heirloom. Historically, the exquisite embroidery for Baghs are known to have been made in the districts of Hazara, Peshawar, Sialkot, Jhelum, Rawalpindi, Multan, Amritsar, Jalandhar, Ambala, Ludhiana, Nabha, Jind, Faridkot, Kapurthala and Chakwal of the Punjab region. Phulkari and Bagh embroidery has influenced the embroidery of Gujarat known as heer bharat in its use of geometrical motifs and stitchery. Phulkaris and Baghs were worn by women all over Punjab during marriage festivals and other joyous occasions. They were embroidered by the women for their own use and use of other family members and were not for sale in the market. Thus, it was purely a domestic art which not only satisfied their inner urge for creation but brought colour into day-to-day life. In a way, it was true folk art. Noting the value of traditional Phulkaris, Aryan (1983) collected the garments noting their spectacular artwork. Such efforts to preserve the art of Phulkari has influenced its revival. (en) Phulkari (Punjabi: ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀ) is een traditionele borduurtechniek die voornamelijk voorkomt in de regio Punjab in het huidige India en Pakistan. Het woord phulkari betekent in het Nederlands iets als bloemenwerk: 'phul' staat voor 'bloem' en 'kari' voor werk. Het traditionele borduurwerk kenmerkt zich door het gebruik van een aan de verkeerde kant van het werk en door het gebruik van kleurrijk, enkeldradig zijdedraad (pat). In het algemeen wordt aangenomen dat deze borduurtechniek door de Jat naar het Indiase subcontinent is meegenomen en dat de kennis over patronen en werkwijze oraal is overgedragen aan sikhs, hindoes en moslims. Phulkari wordt in de Punjabi traditie vooral gebruikt voor kledingstukken - als shawls en (over)hemden - die worden gebruikt tijdens feestelijke gebeurtenissen als een bruiloft van een vrouw of de geboorte van een zoon. Een geborduurde sjaal versierd met phulkari borduurwerk wordt ook een phulkari genoemd. Een overhemd versierd met dezelfde techniek heet 'bhag'. * Zwart katoenen herenvest geborduurd in phulkari * Zwarte vrouwenomslagdoek met phulkari * Wit geborduurd vrouwenhemd met versiering in phulkari borduurtechniek * Gele, geborduurde omslagdoek met versiering in phulkari borduurtechniek (nl)
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dbo:wikiPageExternalLink http://psiec.punjab.gov.in/phulkari.html http://punjabhandloomemporium.in/ http://www.indianheritage.biz/files/PHULKARI-IH.pdf http://www.mbtrust.org/phulkari-makers.html http://www.phulkariindia.com/cluster.html https://thenabhafoundation.org/women-empowerment/ https://www.si.edu/object/siris_sil_875793 http://ignca.gov.in/ http://www.hali.com/news/phulkari-exhibition-turin/ https://books.google.com/books%3Fid=oNAwl-jS3gwC&q=phulkari&pg=PA103 https://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/art-and-culture/national-crafts-museum-delhi-things-to-see-6157814/ https://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/2013/768.html%3Fpage=3
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rdfs:comment Phulkari (Punjabi: ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀ) refers to the folk embroidery of the Punjab. Although Phulkari means floral work, the designs include not only flowers but also cover motifs and geometrical shapes. The main characteristics of Phulkari embroidery are use of darn stitch on the wrong side of coarse cotton cloth with coloured silken thread. Punjabi women create innumerable alluring and interesting designs and patterns by their skilful manipulation of the darn stitch. According to Kehal (2009), a cloth where only a few flowers are embroidered is called a Phulkari. The other types are distinct varieties. The traditional varieties of Phulkaris are large items of cloth and include Chope, Tilpatr, Neelak and Bagh. Sometimes, the Bagh is given separate categorization of its own as on other varieties of a (en) Phulkari (Punjabi: ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀ) is een traditionele borduurtechniek die voornamelijk voorkomt in de regio Punjab in het huidige India en Pakistan. Het woord phulkari betekent in het Nederlands iets als bloemenwerk: 'phul' staat voor 'bloem' en 'kari' voor werk. Het traditionele borduurwerk kenmerkt zich door het gebruik van een aan de verkeerde kant van het werk en door het gebruik van kleurrijk, enkeldradig zijdedraad (pat). In het algemeen wordt aangenomen dat deze borduurtechniek door de Jat naar het Indiase subcontinent is meegenomen en dat de kennis over patronen en werkwijze oraal is overgedragen aan sikhs, hindoes en moslims. (nl)
rdfs:label Phulkari (en) Phulkari (nl)
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