Khadi (original) (raw)
Le terme d'origine indienne khādī (devanāgarī: खादी, Nastaliq: کھڈی) ou khaddar (devanāgarī: खद्दर, Nastaliq: کھدّر) signifie « coton ». Le khādī est un tissu indien filé et tissé à la main.
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| dbo:abstract | El terme khādī or khaddar (devanagari: खद्दर, : کھدر) significa cotó. El khadi és el teixit de tela indi filat a mà. Les matèries primeres poden ser de cotó, seda o llana, els fil s'obté fent girar una filosa anomenada charkha. És un teixit versàtil, fresc a l'estiu i càlid a l'hivern. No obstant això, és una forma més crua del material, s'arruga molt més ràpid que altres preparacions de cotó. Per tal de millorar l'aspecte, el khadi sovint s'emmidona per tal de tenir una forma més rígida. Està àmpliament acceptat en els cercles de la moda. Khadi no és només un drap, fou tot un moviment iniciat per Mohandas Gandhi. El moviment Khadi estava dirigit a boicotejar els productes estrangers i la promoció dels productes indis, la qual cosa millorà l'economia de l'Índia. Mahatma Gandhi va començar a promoure la rotació de Khadi per al desenvolupament d'autoocupació i autosuficiència rurals (en comptes d'usar un drap de fabricació industrial de Gran Bretanya) en l'Índia en la dècada del 1920, llavors el khadi fou una part integral i la icona del Moviment Swadeshi. La lluita per la llibertat girava al voltant de la utilització de teixits de khadi i l'abandonament de la roba fabricada a l'estranger. Quan algunes persones es van queixar de l'alt preu del khadi a Mahatma Gandhi, ell va començar a usar tan sols un tapall. Per tant, simbolitzava les idees polítiques i la pròpia independència, i fins avui la majoria dels polítics a l'Índia només es veuen en roba khadi. La bandera de l'Índia només pot ser feta d'aquest material, encara que en la pràctica molts fabricants de la bandera, especialment els que estan fora de l'Índia, ignoren aquesta regla. (ca) Ĥadi aŭ Khadi (IAST: Khādī) estas man-teksita tolo de natura fibro originita el la orientaj regionoj de la Hindia subkontinento, ĉefe de Orienta Barato, Nordorienta Barato kaj Bangladeŝo, sed estas nune mallarĝe uzata en Pakistano kaj tra la tuta Barato. Tiu tekstilo estas farata ĉefe el kotono. Tiu tolo estas kutime teksita el kotono kaj povas inkludi ankaŭ silkon aŭ lanon, kiu estas ŝpinita per ŝpinrado nomita ĉarĥa. Temas pri varia produkto, malvarma somere kaj varma vintre. Por plibonigi la aspekton, khādī/khaddar estas foje ameligita por havigi pli rigidan senton. Ĝi estas amplekse akceptita en modaj etosoj. Ĥadi estas promociita en Barato fare de la Komisiono Khadi and Village Industries Commission, Ministerio de Malgrandaj kaj Mezaj Entreprenoj. (eo) Khadi (auch Khaddar; Devanagari: खादी, khādī; arabische Urdu-Schrift: کھڈی bzw. کھدر) bezeichnet üblicherweise handgesponnene Produkte aus Baumwolle. Khadi ist Indiens handgesponnene und handgewebte Kleidung. Der Rohstoff zur Herstellung kann Baumwolle, Seide oder Wolle sein und wird auf einem Spinnrad namens verarbeitet. Khadi ist ein vielseitiger Stoff, kühl im Sommer und warm im Winter. Weil das Material viel gröber ist als andere Webstoffe, zerknittert es leicht und wird deshalb häufig gestärkt, um das Aussehen zu verbessern. In den 1920er Jahren begann Mohandas Gandhi, das Spinnen von Khadi zu propagieren. Zum einen sollte es der landwirtschaftlichen Bevölkerung die Möglichkeit zur Selbstversorgung bieten, zum anderen sollte Khadi-Stoff die ausländischen Stoffprodukte verdrängen. Gandhi selbst kleidete sich ausschließlich mit Khadi. Auch die Flagge Indiens wird ausschließlich aus Khadi hergestellt. (de) Le terme d'origine indienne khādī (devanāgarī: खादी, Nastaliq: کھڈی) ou khaddar (devanāgarī: खद्दर, Nastaliq: کھدّر) signifie « coton ». Le khādī est un tissu indien filé et tissé à la main. (fr) Khadi (pronounced [kʰaːdiː], Khādī), derived from khaddar, is a hand-spun and woven natural fibre cloth promoted by Mahatma Gandhi as swadeshi (self-sufficiency) for the freedom struggle of the Indian subcontinent, and the term is used throughout India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. The first piece of the hand-woven cloth was manufactured in the Sabarmati Ashram during 1917–18. The coarseness of the cloth led Gandhi to call it khadi. The cloth is made from cotton, but it may also include silk or wool, which are all spun into yarn on a charkha. It is a versatile fabric that remains cool in summer and warm in winter. To improve its appearance, khadi is sometimes starched to give it a stiffer feel. It is widely accepted in various fashion circles. Popular dresses are made using khadi cloth such as dhoti, kurta, and handloom saris such as Puttapaka Saree, Kotpad Handloom fabrics, Chamba Rumal, and Tussar silk. Gajam Anjaiah, an Indian master handloom designer and a recipient of the Padma Shri, is known for his innovation and development of tie-dye handloom products along with the Telia Rumal technique of weaving products based on the Ikat process. . Greco-Roman merchants imported finer cotton in large quantities to Roman Empire. In medieval times, cotton textiles were imported to Rome through the maritime Silk Road. Arabian-Surat merchants traded cotton textiles to Basra and Baghdad from three areas of Gujarat, the Coromandel Coast and the East Coast of India. To the east, trade reached China via Java. 14th-century Moroccan traveler Ibn Battuta mentioned Delhi sultan Muhammad bin Tughluq sending five varieties of cloth to the Yuan emperor in China. Some of the textiles are stored in repositories of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. After the First Indian War of Independence in 1857, domestic textile production by mill or traditional methods declined to its lowest levels before khadi emerged as a "silent economic revolution" as an outcome of a long and laborious evolutionary process. The American Civil War (1861-1865) caused raw cotton crisis in Cottonopolis Britain. Indian cotton at cheap prices was sourced for them as the textile industry did not exist in India, and hand spinning was a dying art. During Victorian era (1837–1901), 47 mills existed in the 1870s but Indians still bought clothes at an artificially inflated price, since the colonial government exported the raw materials for cloth to British fabric mills, then re-imported the finished cloth to India. In the Edwardian era (1901–1914) the Swadeshi movement of boycotting foreign cloth remained prominent. During the first two decades of the 20th century it was backed by nationalist politicians and Indian mill owners. In 1922, Mahatma Gandhi requested the Indian National Congress (INC) to start a khadi department. In 1924, due to a large amount of work, a semi-independent body All India Khadi Board (AIKB) was formed which liaisoned with the INC's khadi department at the provincial and district levels. In 1925, the All India Spinner Association (AISA) was formed comprising the khadi department and AIKB. Mahatma Gandhi was the founder of AISA. He made it obligatory for all members of the INC to spin cotton themselves and pay their dues in yarn. Gandhi collected large sums of money to create grassroots-level khadi institutions to encourage spinning and weaving which were certified by AISA. Handspun yarn was expensive and of poor quality, and weavers preferred yarn produced by mills because it was more robust and consistent in quality. Gandhi argued that the mill owners would deny handloom weavers an opportunity to buy yarn because they would prefer to create a monopoly for their own cloth. When some people complained about the costliness of khadi to Gandhi, he only wore dhoti, though he used wool shawls when it got cold. Some were able to make a reasonable living by using high-quality mill yarn and catering to the luxury market. Gandhi tried to put an end to this practice by threatening to give up khadi altogether, but since the weavers would have starved if they listened to him, they ignored the threat. In 1919, Gandhi started spinning at Mani Bhawan Mumbai and encouraging others to do so. He invented Patti Charkha, using a double-wheel design to increase speed and control while reducing size. In 1946, when huge funds were being spent on development for more productive charkhas, he recommended takli over charkha. The khadi movement began in 1918 and was marked with its own changing dynamics. Initially, a clear emphasis could be seen on using khadi as an economic solution due to stagnation, from 1934 onwards the fabric became something that villagers could use for themselves. In 1921, Gandhi went to Chandina Upazila in Comilla, Bangladesh, to inspire local weavers and consequently in the greater Comilla region, weaving centers were developed in Mainamati, Muradnagar, Gauripur and Chandina. (en) Khadi (Khādī), también llamado khaddar, es una tela de fibra natural tejida a mano originaria de las regiones orientales del subcontinente indio, pero que actualmente se utiliza ampliamente en toda la India, Pakistán y Bangladés. La tela suele tejerse con algodón. Sin embargo, también puede incluir seda o lana, que se hilan en una rueca llamada charkha. Es un tejido versátil, fresco en verano y cálido en invierno. Para mejorar su aspecto el khādī/khaddar se almidona a veces para darle un tacto más rígido. Es aceptado en diversos círculos de la moda. El khadi es promovido en la India por la Khadi and Village Industries Commission y el Ministerio de Micro, Pequeñas y Medianas Empresas. (es) Khadi is handgesponnen en -geweven stof uit India. Het ruwe materiaal kan bestaan uit katoen, zijde of wol dat tot draden gesponnen wordt met een spinnewiel dat charkha genoemd wordt. Door de ambachtelijke manier van weven kreukt khadi sneller dan andere weefsels van katoen. Daarom wordt er vaak stijfsel gebruikt om de stof steviger te maken. Bovendien is er thans kreukherstellend khadi in de maak * Doordat het zelf spinnen en weven symbool is geworden voor de Indiase strijd voor vrijheid en zelfstandigheid is khadi-textiel een belangrijk element in de Indiase cultuur geworden. Indiase politici dragen om deze reden dan ook vaak khadi. * Khadi wordt verkocht in winkels in het gehele land. * Van khadi worden onder andere traditionele kostuums zoals de Salwar Kameez, de Dhoti en de Kurta gemaakt. * Na een periode waarin khadi wat minder in trek was bij de grote zijn er sinds 2000 door een aantal modebewuste Indiase ontwerpers nieuwe initiatieven ontplooid om khadi weer onder de aandacht te brengen. Zo werden er khadi modeshows georganiseerd in dure hotels en in New Delhi en Mumbai werden moderne khadi boetieks geopend. * Meer dan 800.000 Indiërs hebben een inkomen door het spinnen of weven van khadi. Ze krijgen daarbij enige steun van de overheid wegens het belang van deze huisindustrie voor de werkgelegenheid. * Per jaar wordt er meer dan 100 miljoen meter katoenen, zijden en wollen khadi geproduceerd. De export naar Europa neemt ieder jaar verder toe. Toch maakte khadi in India zelf slechts 1% van de markt uit. (nl) Il khadi o khaddar (Devanagari: खद्दर, : کھدر ) è un particolare tipo di tessuto indiano. La materia prima è il cotone, anche se possono essere utilizzate anche la seta e la lana. Il cotone è filato su un filatoio chiamato charka.È un tessuto molto versatile, caldo d'inverno e fresco in estate. Resta comunque un materiale molto semplice e “grezzo”, per tale motivo molte volte viene inamidato in modo tale che abbia una forma più “corposa”. Il suo utilizzo è ampiamente accettato anche nella moda. (it) Termen Khadi, Khādī eller khaddar (devanagari: खद्दर, : کھدر) betyder bomull. Khadi är indiskt handspunnet och handvävt tyg. Råvarorna kan vara bomull, silke eller ull, som spinns till trådar på ett spinnrockshjul. Det är ett mångsidigt tyg, svalt på sommaren och varmt på vintern. Men då det är grövre än andra beredningar av bomull, rynkar det mycket snabbare. För att förbättra utseendet, är khadiplagg ofta stärkta till en styvare form. (sv) O termo khādī (Devanágari: खादी, Nastaleeq: کھڈی) ou khaddar (Devanágari: खद्दर, Nastaleeq: کھدّر) significa algodão. khādī é uma vestimenta tecida e fabricada à mão na Índia. As matérias-primas podem ser algodão, seda, ou lã, que são fiadas em fios em um rodas chamada de charkha. É um tecido versátil, fresco no verão e quente no inverno. No entanto, sendo o material fabricado de forma grosseira, ele enruga muito mais rápido do que outras tipos de algodão. A fim de melhorar a aparência do khādī é muitas vezes engomado de uma forma mais aguerrida. É amplamente aceito nos círculos da moda. (pt) Кхаді (khādī, деванагарі: खादी, насталік: کھادی) або кхаддар (khaddar, деванагарі: खद्दर, насталік: کھدّر) — тип зітканої уручну індійської тканини. Як сировина для неї може використовуватися бавовна, вовна або шовк, кхаді тчеться уручну, нитки снуються за допомогою традиційної прядки — чаркхи. Це досить багатофунціональна тканина, придатна для виготовлення як літнього, так і зимового одягу. Проте вона легко мнеться, і тому одяг з кхаді часто крохмалять. Ця тканина була майже повністю витіснена промисловою, але Махатма Ганді провів активну кампанію з відновлення її популярності заради підтримки невеликих сільських підприємств на заміну імпорту з Британії, і з 1920-х років виробництво кхаді стало частиною . Рух за незалежність Індії, зокрема, проявляв себе у використанні одягу з кхаді та знищенні імпортних фабричних тканин, символізуючи ідею економічної незалежності. Навіть зараз багато політиків з пошани до національних традицій надають перевагу одягу з кхаді. Більш того, згідно з офіційними специфікаціями, прапор Індії має бути виготовлений з цієї тканини, хоча багато виробників, особливо за кордоном, ігнорують цю вимогу. (uk) |
| dbo:thumbnail | wiki-commons:Special:FilePath/Blue_khadi_kurta.jpg?width=300 |
| dbo:wikiPageExternalLink | http://www.indiaprofile.com/fashion/khadi.htm http://www.khadiculture.com http://www.kamat.com/indica/culture/eco-friendly/khadi.htm http://www.kvic.org.in/ |
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| dbp:date | June 2022 (en) |
| dbp:reason | The source not a scholarly work, but a children's book that greatly oversimplifies economic history. (en) |
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| rdfs:comment | Le terme d'origine indienne khādī (devanāgarī: खादी, Nastaliq: کھڈی) ou khaddar (devanāgarī: खद्दर, Nastaliq: کھدّر) signifie « coton ». Le khādī est un tissu indien filé et tissé à la main. (fr) Il khadi o khaddar (Devanagari: खद्दर, : کھدر ) è un particolare tipo di tessuto indiano. La materia prima è il cotone, anche se possono essere utilizzate anche la seta e la lana. Il cotone è filato su un filatoio chiamato charka.È un tessuto molto versatile, caldo d'inverno e fresco in estate. Resta comunque un materiale molto semplice e “grezzo”, per tale motivo molte volte viene inamidato in modo tale che abbia una forma più “corposa”. Il suo utilizzo è ampiamente accettato anche nella moda. (it) Termen Khadi, Khādī eller khaddar (devanagari: खद्दर, : کھدر) betyder bomull. Khadi är indiskt handspunnet och handvävt tyg. Råvarorna kan vara bomull, silke eller ull, som spinns till trådar på ett spinnrockshjul. Det är ett mångsidigt tyg, svalt på sommaren och varmt på vintern. Men då det är grövre än andra beredningar av bomull, rynkar det mycket snabbare. För att förbättra utseendet, är khadiplagg ofta stärkta till en styvare form. (sv) O termo khādī (Devanágari: खादी, Nastaleeq: کھڈی) ou khaddar (Devanágari: खद्दर, Nastaleeq: کھدّر) significa algodão. khādī é uma vestimenta tecida e fabricada à mão na Índia. As matérias-primas podem ser algodão, seda, ou lã, que são fiadas em fios em um rodas chamada de charkha. É um tecido versátil, fresco no verão e quente no inverno. No entanto, sendo o material fabricado de forma grosseira, ele enruga muito mais rápido do que outras tipos de algodão. A fim de melhorar a aparência do khādī é muitas vezes engomado de uma forma mais aguerrida. É amplamente aceito nos círculos da moda. (pt) El terme khādī or khaddar (devanagari: खद्दर, : کھدر) significa cotó. El khadi és el teixit de tela indi filat a mà. Les matèries primeres poden ser de cotó, seda o llana, els fil s'obté fent girar una filosa anomenada charkha. És un teixit versàtil, fresc a l'estiu i càlid a l'hivern. No obstant això, és una forma més crua del material, s'arruga molt més ràpid que altres preparacions de cotó. Per tal de millorar l'aspecte, el khadi sovint s'emmidona per tal de tenir una forma més rígida. Està àmpliament acceptat en els cercles de la moda. (ca) Ĥadi aŭ Khadi (IAST: Khādī) estas man-teksita tolo de natura fibro originita el la orientaj regionoj de la Hindia subkontinento, ĉefe de Orienta Barato, Nordorienta Barato kaj Bangladeŝo, sed estas nune mallarĝe uzata en Pakistano kaj tra la tuta Barato. Tiu tekstilo estas farata ĉefe el kotono. (eo) Khadi (auch Khaddar; Devanagari: खादी, khādī; arabische Urdu-Schrift: کھڈی bzw. کھدر) bezeichnet üblicherweise handgesponnene Produkte aus Baumwolle. Khadi ist Indiens handgesponnene und handgewebte Kleidung. Der Rohstoff zur Herstellung kann Baumwolle, Seide oder Wolle sein und wird auf einem Spinnrad namens verarbeitet. Khadi ist ein vielseitiger Stoff, kühl im Sommer und warm im Winter. Weil das Material viel gröber ist als andere Webstoffe, zerknittert es leicht und wird deshalb häufig gestärkt, um das Aussehen zu verbessern. (de) Khadi (Khādī), también llamado khaddar, es una tela de fibra natural tejida a mano originaria de las regiones orientales del subcontinente indio, pero que actualmente se utiliza ampliamente en toda la India, Pakistán y Bangladés. (es) Khadi (pronounced [kʰaːdiː], Khādī), derived from khaddar, is a hand-spun and woven natural fibre cloth promoted by Mahatma Gandhi as swadeshi (self-sufficiency) for the freedom struggle of the Indian subcontinent, and the term is used throughout India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. The first piece of the hand-woven cloth was manufactured in the Sabarmati Ashram during 1917–18. The coarseness of the cloth led Gandhi to call it khadi. The cloth is made from cotton, but it may also include silk or wool, which are all spun into yarn on a charkha. It is a versatile fabric that remains cool in summer and warm in winter. To improve its appearance, khadi is sometimes starched to give it a stiffer feel. It is widely accepted in various fashion circles. Popular dresses are made using khadi cloth such as (en) Khadi is handgesponnen en -geweven stof uit India. Het ruwe materiaal kan bestaan uit katoen, zijde of wol dat tot draden gesponnen wordt met een spinnewiel dat charkha genoemd wordt. Door de ambachtelijke manier van weven kreukt khadi sneller dan andere weefsels van katoen. Daarom wordt er vaak stijfsel gebruikt om de stof steviger te maken. Bovendien is er thans kreukherstellend khadi in de maak (nl) Кхаді (khādī, деванагарі: खादी, насталік: کھادی) або кхаддар (khaddar, деванагарі: खद्दर, насталік: کھدّر) — тип зітканої уручну індійської тканини. Як сировина для неї може використовуватися бавовна, вовна або шовк, кхаді тчеться уручну, нитки снуються за допомогою традиційної прядки — чаркхи. Це досить багатофунціональна тканина, придатна для виготовлення як літнього, так і зимового одягу. Проте вона легко мнеться, і тому одяг з кхаді часто крохмалять. (uk) |
| rdfs:label | Khadi (ca) Khadi (de) Ĥadi (eo) Khadi (es) Khadi (it) Khādī (fr) Khadi (en) Khadi (nl) Khadi (pt) Khadi (sv) Кхаді (uk) |
| owl:differentFrom | dbr:Kadhi |
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