Coastal Ocean Modeling Research Papers (original) (raw)

... To appear in: Ocean and Coastal Management Received Date: 6 September 2010 Revised Date: 25 May 2011 Accepted Date: 10 June 2011 Please cite this article as: Marchand M, Sanchez-Arcilla A, Ferreira M, Gault J, Jimenez J, Markovic ...... more

... To appear in: Ocean and Coastal Management Received Date: 6 September 2010 Revised Date: 25 May 2011 Accepted Date: 10 June 2011 Please cite this article as: Marchand M, Sanchez-Arcilla A, Ferreira M, Gault J, Jimenez J, Markovic ... Ivana 11, HR-21000 Split, Croatia. ...

Pekalongan and Batang beach are located in the northern coast of Central Java Province. Due to the influence of Java sea wave, shoreline changes occured. This study aims to analyze the wave transformation, calculate the longshore sediment... more

Pekalongan and Batang beach are located in the northern coast of Central Java Province. Due to the influence of Java sea wave, shoreline changes occured. This study aims to analyze the wave transformation, calculate the longshore sediment transport and shoreline change of Pekalongan and Batang during the period 1989-2002 by using numerical models. Furthermore, the model results are validated by using satellite imagery.

A socio-economic assessment was conducted at Vanga, Shimoni, Majoreni and Gazi villages in the Kenyan south coast with focus on the sea cucumber fishing patterns, the social and economic characteristics of the fisher communities, the... more

A socio-economic assessment was conducted at Vanga, Shimoni, Majoreni and Gazi villages in the Kenyan south coast with focus on the sea cucumber fishing patterns, the social and economic characteristics of the fisher communities, the contribution of sea cucumbers to the local livelihoods, and analysis of the management systems. The results indicate that sea cucumber fishers are mainly men. Fishing is done in sub-tidal areas (3–10 m deep) and inter-tidal areas depending on the species being targeted. Those who fish in the sub-tidal areas do skin diving without using SCUBA diving gear. Sea cucumber fishing is heavily done during the northeast monsoon season when the sea is calm and water is clear. About 32% of the sea cucumber fishers also collect other marine products such as octopus. The sea cucumbers are sold fresh from the sea to local first level middlemen who process and sell them to the second level middlemen and exporters in Mombasa. The fishers occasionally borrow money from first level middlemen especially when they fail to catch sea cucumbers but this in turn creates conditions of dependence and possible exploitation. Almost all sea cucumber fishers have stated that they are not willing to make sea cucumbers part of their daily diet. The economic value of the product was substantial; the average monthly revenue for dry sea cucumbers in the area was estimated to US$ 8000. The relative highest profits are derived from juvenile species, thus there is an economic incentive hindering local stocks to reach sexual maturity, which in turn may create a situation in which recruitment success is highly dependent on faraway populations. The present management system falls into general fisheries regulations and was found weak. No specific management plan for sea cucumbers was found.

A numerical tool was used for the automatic generation of unstructured meshes in the finite element method implantation. The generated meshes are used in the development of two dimensional (2-D) numerical models in the simulation of... more

A numerical tool was used for the automatic generation of unstructured meshes in the finite element method implantation. The generated meshes are used in the development of two dimensional (2-D) numerical models
in the simulation of oceanic phenomena. For it, a package developed in Matlab based on Delaunay unstructured
triangular grid refinement algorithms was used and complemented by a set of diagnostic utilities to check and
improve grid quality

The objective of this dissertation research is to establish a structured and efficient process to the validation of hydrodynamic models in coastal regions in which the tidal forces are the dominant events.

The feasibility and sustainable operation of tidal lagoons and barrages has been under scrutiny over uncertainties with regards to their environmental impacts, potential interactions and energy output. A numerical modelling methodology... more

The feasibility and sustainable operation of tidal lagoons and barrages has been under scrutiny over uncertainties with regards to their environmental impacts, potential interactions and energy output. A numerical modelling methodology that evaluates their effects on the hydro-environment has been refined to consider technical constraints and specifications associated with variable turbine designs and operational sequences. The method has been employed to assess a number of proposals and their combinations within the Bristol Channel and Severn Estuary in the UK. Operational challenges associated with tidal range power plants are highlighted, while also presenting the capabilities of modelling tools tailored to their assessment. Results indicate that as the project scale increases so does its relative hydrodynamic impact, which may compromise annual energy output expectations if not accounted for. However, the manner in which such projects are operated can also have a significant impact on changing the local hydro-environment, including the ecology and morphology. Therefore, it is imperative that tidal range power plants are designed in such a way that they efficiently tap into the renewable energy sources, with minimal interference to the regional hydro-environment through their operation.

In this paper we present the setup, calibration, and validation of an advanced 3-D ocean circulation model to further seek the potential for operational forecasting applications and investigate the coastal hydrodynamic processes in... more

In this paper we present the setup, calibration, and validation of an advanced 3-D ocean circulation model to further seek the potential for operational forecasting applications and investigate the coastal hydrodynamic processes in selected areas of the Black Sea. The extents of the studied areas refer to typical mid-range depths in a microtidal open coast environment up to the shelf-break. The effects of short-term changes in meteorological conditions on the coastal eddies' anticyclonic dynamics are explored in conjunction with the effects of the eastern and western cyclonic gyres of the Rim Current in the Black Sea basin. Newly produced field datasets of in situ oceanographic observations in coastal waters are employed for the validation of highresolution hydrodynamic simulations in operational forecast mode to detect the sub-mesoscale effects of prevailing coastal circulation patterns.

Bungus Bay has many functions such as harbour, tourism, jetty, local fisheries, and power plant. One of the effect of many functions of Bungus Bay is sedimentation. Sedimentation in Bungus Bay distruption its Ecosystem, Coral Reef... more

Bungus Bay has many functions such as harbour, tourism, jetty, local fisheries, and power plant. One of the effect of many functions of Bungus Bay is sedimentation. Sedimentation in Bungus Bay distruption its Ecosystem, Coral Reef Ecosystem. Sedimentation Modelling is using to find out how much sediment concentration (SSC) and sediment transport happens in Bungus Bay. Using sedimentation data, Vurneralbility of Coral Reef Ecosystem in Bungus Bay can be determined. The Result is from 1404.27 ha area of Bungus Bay, 164.73ha is categorized suitable for Coral Reef Ecosystem, 809.55 ha moderate, and 429.99 ha not suitable.

Numerical modelling has become an essential component of today's coastal planning, decision support and risk assessment. High resolution modelling offers an extensive range of capabilities regarding simulated conditions, works and... more

Numerical modelling has become an essential component of today's coastal planning, decision support and risk assessment. High resolution modelling offers an extensive range of capabilities regarding simulated conditions, works and practices, and provides with a wide array of data regarding nearshore wave- and hydro-dynamics. In the present work, the open-source TELEMAC suite and the commercial software MIKE21 are applied to selected coastal areas of South Italy. Applications follow a scenario-based approach in order to study representative wave conditions in the coastal field; the models' results are intercompared in order to test both their performance and capabilities, and are further evaluated on the basis of their operational use for coastal planning and design. A multiparametric approach for the rapid assessment of wave conditions in coastal areas is also presented, and implemented in areas of the same region. The overall approach is deemed to provide useful insights on...

Numerical modelling has become an essential component of today's coastal planning, decision support and risk assessment. High-resolution modelling offers an extensive range of capabilities regarding simulated conditions, works and... more

Numerical modelling has become an essential component of today's coastal planning, decision support and risk assessment. High-resolution modelling offers an extensive range of capabilities regarding simulated conditions, works and practices and provides with a wide array of data regarding nearshore wave dynamics and hydrodynamics. In the present work, the open-source TELEMAC suite and the commercial software MIKE21 are applied to selected coastal areas of South Italy. Applications follow a scenario-based approach in order to study representative wave conditions in the coastal field; the models' results are intercompared in order to test both their performance and capabilities and are further evaluated on the basis of their operational use for coastal planning and design. A multiparametric approach for the rapid assessment of wave conditions in coastal areas is also presented and implemented in areas of the same region. The overall approach is deemed to provide useful insights on the tested models and the use of numerical models – in general – in the above context, especially considering that the design of harbours, coastal protection works and management practices in the coastal zone is based on scenario-based approaches as well.

Among the upwelling processes at the brazilian coast, probably the most well known and well studied is the Cabo Frio upwelling system. Occurring at spring and summer, this process has been shown to be stronger during summer seasons and... more

Among the upwelling processes at the brazilian coast, probably the most well known and well studied is the Cabo Frio upwelling system. Occurring at spring and summer, this process has been shown to be stronger during summer seasons and more
frequent at spring seasons. During these seasons, the presence of a strong northeast wind acting at the Cabo Frio region causes the outcropping of the SACW, due the Ekman dynamic. The presence of the SACW at the coastal zone may cause a gradient
of 10 ◦ C of temperature comparing to the offshore water. Besides the wind action, the Cabo Frio region presents some features that contributes to the upwelling event, such
as the small extension of the continental shelf, the abrupt change in coastline direction and the interaction between the upwelling and the meso-scale system, such as the Bra-
zil Current meanders. Although well studied in its path through the coast of Rio de Janeiro, only a few works have investigated the upwelling plume around the Cabo Frio Island and around the city of Arraial do Cabo. Because of this lack of information, the current work pretends to investigate the distribution and formation of the upwelling in this region. The ROMS model was chosen to simulate the dynamics of the upwelling plume. In this work is used the technique of nesting two grids, where a small resolution simulation is used to feed the high resolution simulation. Three experiments were conducted, being one with only the tide as a forcing, another one with only the wind
and the third one, with both forcings acting. The results has shown that the wind is the most important component in the area and that in the bottom the SACW enters in the Cabo Frio Island bay through the north channel and in the south channel the cold water gets constrained by the bathymetry. The SACW could also be seen around the Cabo Frio Island, outside the bay. At the surface, the wind action prevented the entrance of the upwelled SACW in the island bay and followed its path to the south.