History of Food Research Papers (original) (raw)
Resumo Este texto pretende analisar alguns livros de receitas manuscritos e publica-dos dos séculos XVII e XVIII nos quais se encontram preparados de culinária a par de outros dedicados a questões de higiene e beleza e mezinhas utilizadas... more
Resumo Este texto pretende analisar alguns livros de receitas manuscritos e publica-dos dos séculos XVII e XVIII nos quais se encontram preparados de culinária a par de outros dedicados a questões de higiene e beleza e mezinhas utilizadas na época, numa mistura comum neste tipo de documentos, em que se entrelaçam permanências e ruturas. Palavras-chave: Botica, Cozinha, Época Moderna, Portugal. Abstract This paper aims to examine manuscripts and published Portuguese recipe books of the seventeenth and eighteenth century, with cooking recipes and other ones about hygiene and beauty and also medicines used at the time. This mixture was very common at the time in this type of documents. "Curar as doenças é bom, mas evitá-las é ótimo. Ora quando este salutar intento se dirige à primeira infância, é sem dúvida, o melhor benefício que se pode prestar à humanidade. Velar pela vida e robustez da criança é uma necessidade imperiosa, tanto para as nações ameaçadas pelo perigo da despopulação (sic), como para aquelas que, como a nossa, se encontram na eminência dum outro talvez maior-o da degeneração da raça. Tudo quanto se faça para entravar a marcha deste vírus que rói pouco a pouco a mentalidade, a energia e o caráter da criança portuguesa, merece o aplau-so veemente e o auxílio inconcusso de todos os que amam sinceramente a sua pátria". Mário de Mesquita Lopes 1 A frase em epígrafe integra uma pequena brochura, publicada em 1915, que publicita o Lactogenol, um produto manipulado pelo farmacêutico Mário de Mes-quita Lopes, destinado às mães que amamentassem. Ao tomá-lo evitavam a falta 1 Mário de Mesquita Lopes, Lactogenol (registado), preparado por…, Lisboa: Tipografia da Cooperativa Mi-litar, 1915, pp. 5-6.
Overview on food and nutrition in Mycenaean Greece. Published version of my Ph. D. thesis from 2002.
is awarded each year to an engaging, original piece of writing that delivers new research and/or new insights into any aspect of food history relating to any period, place, people or culture. We welcome innovative, well written entries of... more
is awarded each year to an engaging, original piece of writing that delivers new research and/or new insights into any aspect of food history relating to any period, place, people or culture. We welcome innovative, well written entries of up to 10,000 words in length in the English language only. The Prize is £1,500 for the winning essay, article or book chapter. Authors may submit one entry only each, and they must be delivered to us by this year's closing date of Friday 22 nd April 2022.
Chapter 4 of Eiríks saga rauða has long drawn the attention of scholars due to its detailed description of a seiðr, a rare occurrence in Íslendinga sǫgur as well as in sagas of other genres. The protagonist of the scene, a Greenlandic... more
Chapter 4 of Eiríks saga rauða has long drawn the attention of scholars due to its detailed description of a seiðr, a rare occurrence in Íslendinga sǫgur as well as in sagas of other genres. The protagonist of the scene, a Greenlandic seiðkona named Þorbjǫrg, is depicted as a social functionary who creates a relationship with the supernatural world and acquires a deeper knowledge and foreknowledge concerning the surrounding area, for the benefit of the local community. The performance takes place during a great famine at the beginning of the eleventh century, and the semi-public ritual had the purpose of predicting when the dearth would come to an end. It consisted – among other things-of a ritual meal: a porridge of kid's milk and of the cooked hearts of all the living creatures that inhabited the area. The present paper aims at casting light on this specific aspect of Þorbjǫrg's seiðr, and at contextualizing it within a wider literary and historical landscape. The intention is to integrate traditional interpretations with observations on the importance of sympathetic magic in ancient and medieval Europe, and particularly in medieval Scandinavia.
Restorancılık, zengin yemek kültürüne sahip bütün ülkelerde önem verilen bir konudur. Yiyecek-içecek kültürünün gelişmesiyle gastronomi turizmi, yerel değerler, gelenekler ve insan hayatında yemek gibi konulara eğilim artmaktadır. Bu... more
Restorancılık, zengin yemek kültürüne sahip bütün ülkelerde önem verilen bir konudur. Yiyecek-içecek kültürünün gelişmesiyle gastronomi turizmi, yerel değerler, gelenekler ve insan hayatında yemek gibi konulara eğilim artmaktadır. Bu gelişmeler dikkate alınarak, bu araştırmada restoran işletmeciliğine ilişkin kavramsal bir çalışma gerçekleştirilmiştir. Çalışmanın amacı, Türkiye’de restoranların gelişimini ortaya koymaktır. Bu sayede, Türk restoranlarının hangi evrelerden geçtiği ve dünyadaki gelişmelerin takibindeki eşzamanlılık konularında bilgi sahibi olunacaktır. Çalışmada öncelikle yemek kültüründeki gelişmeye değinilerek dünyada yemek kültürünün seyrine yönelik bilgiler aktarılmıştır. Restoranın doğuşuyla birlikte sektör olarak restorancılığın gelişimi açıklanmış ve restorancılıkta önemli tarihler, işletmeler ve kişilere ilişkin bilgilere yer verilmiştir. Bunun yanı sıra, işletmelerde hizmeti etkileyen akımlar ve hizmet şekilleri de açıklanmıştır. Sonuç olarak, dünyadaki ilerlemelerle paralel bir seyir izlemiş olan Türkiye’deki restorancılığın, gelişmelere açık bir sektör olduğu ifade edilmiştir.
La forma urbana dell'arte bianca. Il caso di Gragnano GIOVANNI DE FEO -Università di Salerno Dal cavolo alla pasta: tra tecnica e storia Intermezzo letterario SERGIO CINQUE -Pasti cio Faella L'evoluzione nella produzione della pasta in... more
La forma urbana dell'arte bianca. Il caso di Gragnano GIOVANNI DE FEO -Università di Salerno Dal cavolo alla pasta: tra tecnica e storia Intermezzo letterario SERGIO CINQUE -Pasti cio Faella L'evoluzione nella produzione della pasta in Italia ALESSANDRA NARCISO -ISEM-CNR La pasta non cresce nel Nord Europa. Evoluzione storico-giuridica delle paste a indicazione geogra ca Pausa pranzo II Sezione -LA PASTA IMMAGINATA Coordina VITTORIA VITTORIA -Università di Salerno ANTONELLA GOLINO -Università del Molise Mangiar simboli: la pasta come veicolo identitario e simbolico LEONARDO ACONE -Università di Salerno "Contorni letterari". La pasta tra aba, racconto e poesia MARIANGELA PALMIERI -Università di Salerno Gli Italiani e la pasta nell'immaginario cinematogra co Intermezzo letterario III Sezione -L'ALIMENTO PASTA La carta "alimentare" di Benedetto Marzolla (1856): prodotti tipici e valorizzazioni geogra che del Mezzogiorno d'Italia tra passato e presente
Tel Aviv 69978, Israel. 'Rabbi Yohanan would spit at [the mention of] Babylonian kutah' (BT Shabbat 145b) In this paper I shall try to look at some apparently strange ancient foodstuffs mentioned in the Talmudic literature, and attempt to... more
Tel Aviv 69978, Israel. 'Rabbi Yohanan would spit at [the mention of] Babylonian kutah' (BT Shabbat 145b) In this paper I shall try to look at some apparently strange ancient foodstuffs mentioned in the Talmudic literature, and attempt to see where they were eaten, what they were made of and how they were made. Of course there are many difficulties in doing thisthe Talmud is not a recipe book and foods do change both names and ingredients over time and placea good example would be the many different names and ingredients there are for a modern kugel. 1 There are similar problems with identifying ancient foods as well.
In this essay, I examine the relationships among blood, sap, and wine in seventeenth-century English agricultural treatises. The associations among blood, sap, and wine provoke unease about English reliance on imported wines. If blood... more
In this essay, I examine the relationships among blood, sap, and wine in seventeenth-century English agricultural treatises. The associations among blood, sap, and wine provoke unease about English reliance on imported wines. If blood and wine are analogous, even fungible, then what does it mean that English people drink “outlandish” wine? Fueled by the association between blood and wine, concerns about strengthening English bloodlines and preserving their purity contributed to the promotion of English (and colonial) grape growing and wine making. In turn, the pre-modern belief in the vitality and dynamism of wine persists in some modern-day celebrations of wine’s spiritual powers and health benefits. This essay ultimately reflects on the practical consequences and material manifestations of figuration, the complex entanglements of past and present, and the complexities of “drinking local.”
Siódmy tom serii Monumenta Poloniae Culinaria zawiera rękopiśmienne, rozproszone (niepochodzące z książek kucharskich) i bardzo zróżnicowane receptury kulinarne z XVI-XVIII w. Staropolskie przepisy opowiadają nam o czymś więcej niż tylko... more
Siódmy tom serii Monumenta Poloniae Culinaria zawiera rękopiśmienne, rozproszone (niepochodzące z książek kucharskich) i bardzo zróżnicowane receptury kulinarne z XVI-XVIII w. Staropolskie przepisy opowiadają nam o czymś więcej niż tylko o tym, jak usmażyć rybę w papierowym pudełku, jak ze szczupaka przyrządzić wołowinę i jak ugotować zdrowotny bulion. Gdy odkryjemy, co to znaczy abucht i sołtonosy, gdy dowiemy się, czym był pekienflejsz, do czego używano wizigi i dlaczego objadano się jesiotrzyną, to po prostu lepiej zrozumiemy naszych przodków, wnikniemy w ich problemy, docenimy ich ogromną wiedzę, poznamy ich pasje i upodobania.
Resumo: Este artigo estuda a alimentação e a sociabilidade à mesa no livro Lisboa em ca-misa, de Gervásio Lobato, que retrata, com bas-tante humor, alguns episódios da vida de uma família da pequena burguesia de Lisboa dos anos 80 do... more
Resumo: Este artigo estuda a alimentação e a sociabilidade à mesa no livro Lisboa em ca-misa, de Gervásio Lobato, que retrata, com bas-tante humor, alguns episódios da vida de uma família da pequena burguesia de Lisboa dos anos 80 do século xix. Palavras-Chaves: Gervásio Lobato; Lisboa em camisa; alimentação; sociabilidade. Abstract: This article aims to study several aspects of food and sociability around the table in the Portuguese humorous book Lisboa em camisa (1882), by Gervásio Lobato, which portrays, with great humor, some episodes from the life of a petty bourgeois family from Lisbon in the 1880s.
Förord 7 Nya arkeologiska perspektiv 9 14 Kalmararkeologi under hundra år TEMA Arkeologin och vardagslivet 19 Staden och det tidigmoderna samhället 23 28 Den gamla staden TEMA Den föränderliga staden 51 TEMA Kalmar slott under medeltid... more
Förord 7 Nya arkeologiska perspektiv 9 14 Kalmararkeologi under hundra år TEMA Arkeologin och vardagslivet 19 Staden och det tidigmoderna samhället 23 28 Den gamla staden TEMA Den föränderliga staden 51 TEMA Kalmar slott under medeltid och renässans 54 58 Den nya staden -Kalmar under tidigmodern tid 86 Det nya Kalmar -en befäst stad TEMA Kalmar slott efter stadsflytten 102 110 Domkyrkan som social arena 122 En gravkammare öppnas 135 Skeppet som hierarkiskt rum och symbol för stormakten 149 Sammanfattning -att ordna samhället Stadsbor och stadsgårdar 158 162 Hus, tomt och gård TEMA Byggnadskultur i Kalmar län under tidigmodern tid 172 202 Ägande, boende och hushåll på Kvarnholmen under 1700-talet 224 Varmt och skönt -och iögonfallande modernt 240 Hantverk och hantverkare TEMA Kritpipor 256 260 Personliga ting och modernitet TEMA Figuriner -Lika men ändå mycket olika 275 278 Sammanfattning -hemma på Kvarnholmen Från odling till bord och avfall 286 290 Odlat, slaktat, fångat och plockat 318 Maten på bordet -vad man åt och hur TEMA Glaskärl berättar om 16 stadshushåll i Kalmar 334 338 Avfall -resurs eller problem? 350 Sammanfattning -produktion, konsumtion och avfallshantering TEMA Hemma hos familjen Hultén 358 En avslutning -och en fortsättning 362
The nutritional, economic and politícal importance of hunting in medieval Aragón is revealed by the development of a legal framework to legislate this activity and its survival until the middle of the 20th century. Our research on hunting... more
The nutritional, economic and politícal importance of hunting in medieval Aragón is revealed by the development of a legal framework to legislate this activity and its survival until the middle of the 20th century. Our research on hunting in the kingdom of Aragón in the lih-15th centuries is based on the information provided by two groups of legal texts: those for local or regional areas (local charters, town letters, royal privileges, municipal statutes) and those that were applied to all the kingdom after the 13ili centory (general charters passed in the Courts). Comparative studies and the information provided by iconography, archaeology, notarial documentation and literature have permitted us to contrast, clarify and complete the development of our analysis, based on various points: 1) hunting as a natural resource whose exploitation is regulated and controlled by local and state powers; 2) hunting as an activity done from very different perspectives and with plural purposes, methods and valuations, closely related to the position of each person in the hierarchised medieval society; 3) hunting as a method of social control for sorne and of rebelliousness against the established order for poachers; and 4) the supplying and consumption of game as an indicator of diverse food cultures and systems that coexist in the same chronological and spatial framework.
This article presents an overview of the long term trends in the trading patterns for salted herring in the area of the North Sea and the Baltic Sea and their hinterlands in the period of c. 1600-1850. The market is defined as ‘the... more
This article presents an overview of the long term trends in the trading patterns for salted herring in the area of the North Sea and the Baltic Sea and their hinterlands in the period of c. 1600-1850. The market is defined as ‘the interaction between supply and demand to determine the market price and corresponding quantity bought and sold.’ In this period the north European herring market underwent several changes. This is analysed from four different points of view:
The first main section examines the main trading routes for herring in Northern Europe by use of records from the Sound toll registers as well as from accounts of herring imports in the German North Sea and Baltic cities. Then a number of price series for various parts of northern Europe give indications for the long term development of prices of herring. Following this an analysis of the consumption patterns of salted herring is carried out, and finally the influence of mercantilist policies is evaluated.
In the past years, it seems that food has found itself a central focus of creativity in contemporary culture. To wit, streaming platforms are littered with cooking shows celebrating chefs' creativity around the world, books take culinary... more
In the past years, it seems that food has found itself a central focus of creativity in contemporary culture. To wit, streaming platforms are littered with cooking shows celebrating chefs' creativity around the world, books take culinary creativity as their central topic (see, e.g., Redzepi 2013 and Questlove 2016), and people seem to be constantly concerned about the last culinary trend. But what is culinary creativity? And what are the forms it can take? This paper addresses these issues. Building upon pioneering work on creativity by Margaret Boden, I argue that creativity is a matter of adding new valuable things to the world. Creative people are those that take on this task, and creative things are the output of their creative processes. Many recipes and many chefs meet this characterization. However, as we shall see, they don't all meet it in the same sense, and some forms of culinary creativity can be deemed more valuable than others. I will argue that this is especially the case with the kind of culinary creativity displayed at Noma in Copenhagen, one of today's most creative restaurants, headed by its celebrated chef René Redzepi. Indeed, the kind of culinary creativity displayed at Noma emphasizes the mediating role that recipes can have with respect to the environment and realizes the full potential of this mediating relation by taking into account not only its sensory, but also its cognitive and disruptive aspects. The structure of the paper is the following. In the first section, I expound on some background issues about creativity and recipes. In the second section, I provide a summary of the creative perspective at Noma. In a third section, I discuss three ways creativity can occur in the culinary domain and discuss three important culinary movements: fusion food, nouvelle cuisine, and modernist cuisine. Before summarizing my results in the conclusion, I then expound, in a fourth section, my reasons to consider that the kind of culinary creativity displayed at Noma is distinctive.
Volume pubblicato con il contributo dell'Università LUMSA. 1 Tra i suoi molti contributi al tema cfr. M. MONTANARI, Gusti del Medioevo, Laterza, Roma-Bari 2012 e Mangiare da cristiani. Diete, digiuni, banchetti. Storie di una cultura,... more
Volume pubblicato con il contributo dell'Università LUMSA. 1 Tra i suoi molti contributi al tema cfr. M. MONTANARI, Gusti del Medioevo, Laterza, Roma-Bari 2012 e Mangiare da cristiani. Diete, digiuni, banchetti. Storie di una cultura, Rizzoli, Milano 2015; cfr. anche P.H. REYNOLDS, Food and the Body. Some Peculiar Questions in High Medieval Theology, Brill, Leiden 1999.
This article intends to compare two cooking books published in the 1930s. These books had different contents and were addressed to completely different audiences, despite its authors have the same name, Rosa Maria. The work of Rosa Maria... more
This article intends to compare two cooking books published in the 1930s. These books had different contents and were addressed to completely different audiences, despite its authors have the same name, Rosa Maria. The work of Rosa Maria was published in Brazil with the title Arte de comer bem, whose first edition appeared in 1931. In Portugal, it is believed that the first edition appeared in 1932, also authored by Rosa Maria, with the title A cosinheira das cosinheiras. A arte de comer bem. Higiene alimentar e mais de 500 receitas para cosinhar fazer doces, gelados, compotas etc. Since several questions have arisen, this paper proposes to answer some of them.
Este artigo pretende comparar dois livros de culinária publicados nos anos de 1930, que, apesar de possuírem autoras com o mesmo nome, Rosa Maria, tiveram conteúdos e dirigiram-se a públicos completamente diferentes. No Brasil, foi publicada a obra de Rosa Maria, com o nome Arte de comer bem, cuja primeira edição apareceu em 1931, e, em Portugal, crê-se que em 1932, igualmente por Rosa Maria, apareceu A cosinheira das cosinheiras. A arte de comer bem. Higiene alimentar e mais de 500 receitas para cosinhar, fazer doces, gelados, compotas etc. Neste sentido, importa proceder a uma abordagem exploratória das duas fontes, respondendo a algumas questões consideradas pertinentes.
Seamus Heaney’s poetry is rich in detail about agricultural and food practices in his native Northern Ireland from the 1950s onwards, such as cattle-trading, butter-churning, eel-fishing, blackberry-picking or home-baking. Often studied... more
Seamus Heaney’s poetry is rich in detail about agricultural and food practices in his native Northern Ireland from the 1950s onwards, such as cattle-trading, butter-churning, eel-fishing, blackberry-picking or home-baking. Often studied from an ecocritical perspective, the abundance of agricultural and culinary scenes in Heaney’s work makes a gastrocritical focus on food and foodways suitable. Food has been recognized as a highly condensed social fact, and writers have long tapped into its multi-layered meanings to illuminate socio-cultural circumstances, making literature a valuable ethnographic source. A gastrocritical reading of Heaney’s work from 1966 to 2010, drawing on Rozin’s Structure of Cuisine, shows that the foodstuffs and culinary techniques featured in the poetry reflect historic and contemporary Irish cuisine and culture as explained by food-historical and folkloristic research, giving his work a particularly Irish cultural signature. In turn, Heaney’s poetic sensibilities and language craft may contribute to our verstehen of Ireland’s culinary heritage.
Historia de la alimentación andaluza a través de uno de los platos más arraigados y antiguos, el salmorejo, así como de sus ingredientes (tomate, pan, ajo, aceite de oliva, sal y vinagre). Análisis bromatológico y sensorial de los... more
Historia de la alimentación andaluza a través de uno de los platos más arraigados y antiguos, el salmorejo, así como de sus ingredientes (tomate, pan, ajo, aceite de oliva, sal y vinagre). Análisis bromatológico y sensorial de los diferentes ingredientes y del plato.