Ornaments Research Papers - Academia.edu (original) (raw)

Over 30 years, the design of ornaments on karawo textiles in Gorontalo-Indonesia is only done by one self-taught designer, without regeneration. This is allegedly because the design process is considered to be done intuitively, so that... more

Over 30 years, the design of ornaments on karawo textiles in Gorontalo-Indonesia is only done by one self-taught designer, without regeneration. This is allegedly because the design process is considered to be done intuitively, so that cannot be learned by others. This study aims to explore the process of designing the ornaments to be systematically understandable by others. Data were collected through observations, interviews, and review of design results. They were analyzed interactively during and after data collection. The results show that the process of creating the design is complex, but systematically done through five steps: 1) identifying the concept from users; 2) exploring the specific products for appropriate design; 3) selecting objects for appropriate motives; 4) articulating the design; 5) evaluating the overall design. These five steps are considered as method of designing ornaments on karawo textiles, which can be applied by anyone who has good interpretation to cr...

A renewed study of beads and pendants from the Cave of the Treasure in Nahal Mishmar (Judean Desert, Israel) was carried out in order to enhance our understanding of south Levantine Chalcolithic personal ornaments. The analysis of raw... more

A renewed study of beads and pendants from the Cave of the Treasure in Nahal Mishmar (Judean Desert, Israel) was carried out in order to enhance our understanding of south Levantine Chalcolithic personal ornaments. The analysis of raw materials, technology, and style of these items reveal possible connections going as far as Egypt and the Sinai Peninsula to the south and west, and the Indus Valley and Afghanistan to the east. These artifacts complement finds from other Ghassulian Chalcolithic (ca. 4500–3800 b.c.e.) sites and further our understanding of the role of personal ornaments during this timespan.

Les planches d'ornements, souvent regroupées en recueils, soulèvent de nombreuses questions sur leurs destinations. « Modèles » pour les artistes et les artisans, leur polyvalence, elles jouèrent un rôle important dans la propagation des... more

Les planches d'ornements, souvent regroupées en recueils, soulèvent de nombreuses questions sur leurs destinations. « Modèles » pour les artistes et les artisans, leur polyvalence, elles jouèrent un rôle important dans la propagation des inventions, véritable fer de lance de l'évolution du goût. Loin de s'adresser uniquement aux hommes de l’art, artistes et artisans, les estampes d’ornement, par leur qualité formelle, sont d'ailleurs, à partir du début du XVIIIe siècle, aussi destinées aux amateurs et aux collectionneurs.

Problem statement: The Qajar era painting has a particular position in the history of Iran’s art and portraiture is controversial as a prominent branch of painting during Fath Ali Shah’s sultanate period. As one of the main subjects of... more

Problem statement: The Qajar era painting has a particular position in the history of Iran’s art and portraiture is controversial as a prominent branch of painting during Fath Ali Shah’s sultanate period. As one of the main subjects of the painters in this era, women have been frequently portrayed with no veil (hijab) while wearing heavy make-up and a lot of jewelry. Mehr Ali is one of the proficient painters of this era that, besides portraying the king, has also portrayed a few of the Qajar women, as well. In the painting “the lady with the parrot” which is ascribed to Mehr Ali, a painter in Fath Ali Shah Qajar’s royal court, a kind of clothing style different from the common Qajar women’s, can be observed.
REsearch objective: The present study aimed at analyzing the clothing and ornaments of the woman in Mehr Ali’s painting and their consistency with the hijab and ornaments commonly used by Qajar women from iconographical perspectives. To do so, efforts have been made to unravel the latent layers of aforementioned artwork via describing and analyzing the themes therein. The article seeks to figure out the reason why the woman has been portrayed in this painting with those ornaments and clothing.
Research method: The present study was carried out based on a qualitative (analytical-descriptive) method using content analysis. The study’s theoretical foundation was set based on Erwin Panofsky’s school of iconography and the required data was collected based on the documentary method and library research.
Conclusion: The study findings makes the audience familiar with a different type of female clothing that is less similar to the outfits commonly used by Qajar era’s women and no historical book has pointed thereto. The type of hijab depicted in Mehr Ali’s painting remind the audience of the Indian women’s clothing in Mughal (Gurkanian) era and the woman’s make-up style seem to be influenced by the literature and representation of its similes in painting.

Artiste fécond et productif, Jean Lemoyne eut sa place dans le renouvellement de l’arabesque à la fin du XVIIe siècle. Novateur au début de sa carrière, inventif dans les formes et les compositions, ce que notait Hyppolyte Destailleur en... more

Artiste fécond et productif, Jean Lemoyne eut sa place dans le renouvellement de l’arabesque à la fin du XVIIe siècle. Novateur au début de sa carrière, inventif dans les formes et les compositions, ce que notait Hyppolyte Destailleur en soulignant que « l’ornementation de Le Moyne est mieux composée que celle de Berain ; le dessin est plus large de facture & généralement plus varié », il eut une influence sur ses contemporains et, sans doute, plus particulièrement sur Jean Ier Berain. Par la suite les choses s’inversèrent, le dessinateur de la chambre et Cabinet du Roi ayant su dépasser les formules qu’il avait proposées.

In 2017, a bracelet made of mammoth ivory, the first artifact of such kind found in the Altai, was found in layer 11 in the South Chamber of Denisova Cave. Main stages in bracelet manufacturing have been reconstructed, such as blank... more

In 2017, a bracelet made of mammoth ivory, the first artifact of such kind found in the Altai, was found in layer 11 in the South Chamber of Denisova Cave. Main stages in bracelet manufacturing have been reconstructed, such as blank production based on longitudinal flaking or knapping of moistened ivory; shaving with a stone tool and bending the moistened blank for giving the needed shape to the artifact. Technological analysis of the bracelet substantially complements the knowledge about the techniques of processing mammoth ivory, which were used in Southern Siberia in the Early Upper Paleolithic. The comparison of this adornment with similar finds from other sites makes it possible to consider the bracelet from layer 11 in Denisova Cave as the earliest artifact of that kind in Northern Eurasia.

Longtemps quelque peu négligé ou traité en sujet secondaire, l’ornement connaît depuis quelques années un regain d’intérêt de la part des historiens de l’art et des chercheurs. Il convient de s’en réjouir tant son importance est grande... more

Perforated shells figure prominently in discussions of exchange systems and body ornamentation during the Mesolithic in Europe. This paper discusses assemblages of perforated marine (Columbella rustica) and freshwater (Lithoglyphus... more

Perforated shells figure prominently in discussions of exchange systems and body ornamentation during the Mesolithic in Europe. This paper discusses assemblages of perforated marine (Columbella rustica) and freshwater (Lithoglyphus naticoides) snail shells recovered from recent excavations of Mesolithic sites in Croatia. Numerous finds occur in several sites in Istria on the Adriatic coast and at Zala cave in the inland region of Lika, suggesting the possible existence of an exchange or trading system. Several other Mesolithic sites with perforated marine and freshwater snail shells are omitted from this discussion because these sites are located on the Adriatic coast, therefore suggesting local production of perforated snail shells.The probable existence of a Mesolithic regional exchange system between coastal and inland areas is supported by the presence of exotic shells, both on the coast and inland. Comparison of metric attributes (shell size and size of perforation) and the morphology of perforations in each group suggest similar treatment of snail shells found in Istria and in Lika.Mesolithic specimens were compared only with modern examples of C. rustica because modern populations of L. naticoides have not yet been found. This comparison suggests either strong selectivity during the Mesolithic in favour of larger specimens, or changed environmental circumstances. Future research should explore if Lithoglyphus naticoides, found in Mesolithic, still exists today.

... 211. 212 Ian С. Glover & Bérénice Bellina. References Adhyatman, S. and R. Arifin, ed. 1 993 Manik-Manik di Indonesia. ... 3rd century BC to 13th century CE". In A. Srisuchat (ed), Ancient Trade and Cultural... more

... 211. 212 Ian С. Glover & Bérénice Bellina. References Adhyatman, S. and R. Arifin, ed. 1 993 Manik-Manik di Indonesia. ... 3rd century BC to 13th century CE". In A. Srisuchat (ed), Ancient Trade and Cultural Contacts in Southeast Asia. Bangkok, pp. 161-180. ...

Fluorite ornaments have been recorded in different sites of Europe since Upper Paleolithic. Due to its visual appearance and physical properties, some translucent or transparent mineralogies like fluorite were searched for or casually... more

Fluorite ornaments have been recorded in different sites of Europe since Upper Paleolithic. Due to its visual appearance and physical properties, some translucent or transparent mineralogies like fluorite were searched for or casually acquired by late prehistory’s human communities. After intensive research on archaeological contexts from the Iberian Peninsula with personal ornaments from 4th to 2nd millennia BCE, we have recently identified and characterized for the first time an important number of fluorite ornaments, confronting a previous background where little attention was paid. Our work has been carried out in different archaeological collections and museums from the whole Iberian Peninsula by non-destructive techniques (Raman spectroscopy, portable X-ray fluorescence (p-XRF) and X-ray Diffraction (XRD), that revealed the nature of fluorite ornaments and points to its consideration as scarce and highly symbolic items during late prehistory. A total of 36 fluorite beads from ...

GRAPHIC MOTIFS ON CERAMICS MEDIEVAL KHOREZM SUMMARY: The article discusses the study of archaeological material collected from the territories of the sites of medieval Khorezm sites, the ability to distinguish types of zoomorphic... more

GRAPHIC MOTIFS ON CERAMICS MEDIEVAL KHOREZM
SUMMARY: The article discusses the study of archaeological material collected from the
territories of the sites of medieval Khorezm sites, the ability to distinguish types of zoomorphic
ceramics, with their graphic motifs and compositions.
Significant place in ornamental scenes on the glazed ceramics of Khorezm is occupied by
zoomorphic motifs. These are birds: ducks, peacocks, passerine family, pheasants; as well as fish,
hares, bulls, gazelles, deer. They are arranged in pairs and singly in round medallions or among
vegetable ornamentation.
KEY WORDS: Khorezm, Middle Ages, glazed ceramics, zoomorphic motif, birds, animals

La Bibliothèque de l’Institut national d’histoire de l’art, héritière de la Bibliothèque d’art et d’archéologie créée par le couturier Jacques Doucet (1853-1929) à partir de 1908, est aujourd’hui riche de plus de 25 000 estampes... more

La Bibliothèque de l’Institut national d’histoire de l’art, héritière de la Bibliothèque d’art et d’archéologie créée par le couturier Jacques Doucet (1853-1929) à partir de 1908, est aujourd’hui riche de plus de 25 000 estampes d'ornement, réunies en près de 700 volumes. Son fonds d'estampes couvre la production, tant française qu’italienne ou allemande, du XVe au XIXe siècle.
Le programme « Histoire de l'ornement » de l'INHA a d'abord consisté au soutien apporté au catalogage informatisé du fonds, puis à sa numérisation, permettant de le faire connaître auprès de la communauté scientifique.
Parallèlement, il s'agissait de conduire une réflexion sur la notion et l’histoire de l’ornement, qui s'est traduite par l’organisation d’une exposition dans la galerie Colbert (3 octobre-31 décembre 2014), et par la publication simultanée d’un ouvrage : Michaël Decrossas et Lucie Fléjou (dir.), Ornements. XVe - XIXe siècles. Chefs-d’œuvre de la Bibliothèque de l'INHA, collections Jacques Doucet, Paris, éditions Mare & Martin / INHA, 2014. Cette étude a amené à questionner plusieurs points : ce qu'est une "estampe d'ornement", son rôle, ses fonctions et usages, sa destination, sa circulation...

In the sense of the gravettian technocomplex of Central Europe in Moravia it is mammoth ivory which was mainly used to manufacture and create personal ornaments. The hunters and gatherers selected and stored mammoth tusks as the raw... more

In the sense of the gravettian technocomplex of Central Europe in Moravia it is mammoth ivory which was mainly used to manufacture and create personal ornaments. The hunters and gatherers selected and stored mammoth tusks as the raw material for the manufacture of tools, weapons, furniture and ornaments. In Moravia, personal ornaments were found in a great variability of forms and sizes – mostly beads like breast-shaped beads, bilobated beads, bilobated flat beads, tear drop shaped beads and round ornaments – rings, bracelets, discs as well as flat elements – diadems and other pendants (zoomorphs, antropomorphs, geometric forms). Some types of personal ornaments show equivalent forms at other gravettian sites and some are unique in Moravia. This article illustrates the variability of these personal ornaments in the context of the Gravettian in Moravia.

The expansion of Homo sapiens and our interaction with local environments, including the replacement or absorption of local populations, is a key component in understanding the evolution of our species. Of special interest are artifacts... more

The expansion of Homo sapiens and our interaction with local environments, including the replacement or absorption of local populations, is a key component in understanding the evolution of our species. Of special interest are artifacts made from hard animal tissues from layers at Bacho Kiro Cave (Bulgaria) that have been attributed to the Initial Upper Paleolithic. The Initial Upper Paleolithic is characterized by Levallois-like blade technologies that can co-occur with bone tools and ornaments and likely represents the dispersal of H. sapiens into several regions throughout Eurasia starting by 45 ka or possibly earlier. Osseous artifacts from the Initial Upper Paleolithic are important components of this record and have the potential to contribute to our understanding of group interactions and population movements. Here, we present a zooarchaeological, technological, and functional analysis of the diverse and sizable osseous artifact collection from Bacho Kiro Cave. Animal raw material sources are consistent with taxa found within the faunal assemblage including cervids, large bovids, and cave bears. A variety of bone tool morphologies, both formal and informal, indicate a diverse technological approach for conducting various on-site activities, many of which were focused on the processing of animal skins, likely for cold weather clothing. Technological flexibility is also evident in the manufacture of personal ornaments, which were made primarily from carnivore teeth, especially cave bear, though herbivore teeth and small beads are also represented. The osseous artifacts from Bacho Kiro Cave provide a series of insights into the bone technology and indirectly on the social aspects of these humans in southeast Europe, and when placed within the broader Initial Upper Paleolithic context, both regional and shared behaviors are evidently indicating widespread innovation and complexity. This is especially significant given the location and chronology of the site in the context of H. sapiens dispersals.

Fluorite ornaments have been recorded in different sites of Europe since Upper Paleolithic. Due to its visual appearance and physical properties, some translucent or transparent mineralogies like fluorite were searched for or casually... more

Fluorite ornaments have been recorded in different sites of Europe since Upper Paleolithic. Due to its visual appearance and physical properties, some translucent or transparent mineralogies like fluorite were searched for or casually acquired by late prehistory’s human communities. After intensive research on archaeological contexts from the Iberian Peninsula with personal ornaments from 4th to 2nd millennia BCE, we have recently identified and characterized for the first time an important number of fluorite ornaments, confronting a previous background where little attention was paid. Our work has been carried out in different archaeological collections and museums from the whole Iberian Peninsula by non-destructive techniques (Raman spectroscopy, portable X-ray fluorescence (p-XRF) and X-ray Diffraction (XRD), that revealed the nature of fluorite ornaments and points to its consideration as scarce and highly symbolic items during late prehistory. A total of 36 fluorite beads from ...

Situated at the crossroads of Africa and Eurasia, the Levant is a crucial region for understanding the origins and spread of Upper Paleolithic (UP) traditions associated with the spread of modern humans. Of the two local Early Upper... more

Situated at the crossroads of Africa and Eurasia, the Levant is a crucial region for understanding the origins and spread of Upper Paleolithic (UP) traditions associated with the spread of modern humans. Of the two local Early Upper Paleolithic technocomplexes, the Ahmarian and the Levantine Aurignacian, the latter appears to be unique in the endemic UP sequence, exhibiting greater similarity to the West European 'classic' Aurignacian than to the local preceding and proceeding UP entities. Previous publications have mostly focused on the similarities between the two lithic industries and less on studies conducted on Levantine Aurignacian bone tools and ornaments. Here, we present an archaeozoological, technological and use-wear study of ornaments on animal teeth from the Levantine Aurignacian layers at Manot and Hayonim caves (the Galilee, Israel). The selection of taxa, the choice of teeth, the mode of modification, and the use-wear analysis exhibit clear similarities with the European Aurignacian. This, with the technology of the osseous raw material exploitation, the presence of antler simple-base points, and some lithic typotechnological features, suggest a link between the symbolic spheres of the Levantine and the European Aurignacian cultural entities. Such similarity also supports some contribution of European Aurignacians groups to the local cultural entities, intermingling with the local material culture features.

The extensive use of mollusc shell as a versatile raw material is testament to its importance in prehistoric times. The consistent choice of certain species for different purposes, including the making of ornaments, is a direct... more

The extensive use of mollusc shell as a versatile raw material is testament to its importance in prehistoric times. The consistent choice of certain species for different purposes, including the making of ornaments, is a direct representation of how humans viewed and exploited their environment. The necessary taxonomic information, however, is often impossible to obtain from objects that are small, heavily worked or degraded. Here we propose a novel biogeochemical approach to track the biological origin of prehistoric mollusc shell. We conducted an in-depth study of archaeological ornaments using microstructural, geochemical and biomolecular analyses, including ‘palaeoshellomics’, the first application of palaeoproteomics to mollusc shells (and indeed to any invertebrate calcified tissue). We reveal the consistent use of locally-sourced freshwater mother-of-pearl for the standardized manufacture of ‘double-buttons’. This craft is found throughout Europe between 4200–3800 BCE, highli...

Статья посвящена культурно-этническим связям Якутии с Западной Сибирью и Приуральем в раннем железном веке на основе сравнительного анализа керамики, украшенной мелкоструйчатым штампом. Такая керамика найдена в Якутии на стоянках... more

Статья посвящена культурно-этническим связям Якутии с Западной Сибирью и Приуральем в раннем железном веке на основе сравнительного анализа керамики, украшенной мелкоструйчатым штампом. Такая керамика найдена в Якутии на стоянках Областная Больница, Белькачи I, Владимировка VI («Пашня») и Вилюйское Шоссе.