Mordants Research Papers - Academia.edu (original) (raw)

The aim of the project was to investigate viability of natural dyes for Wool & Prince, a U.S. menswear company looking to add naturally dyed wool and wool/nylon blend textiles to their apparel offerings. In this abstract, we... more

The aim of the project was to investigate viability of natural dyes for Wool & Prince, a U.S. menswear company looking to add naturally dyed wool and wool/nylon blend textiles to their apparel offerings. In this abstract, we report the colorfastness of wool/nylon knit fabric to laundering results for: a) existing synthetically dyed samples; b) traditional pre-mordant and naturally dyed samples; and c) DLT combined mordant and dye samples. Dye color selection was based on the company’s color palette.

This paper explains to extract the eco-friendly natural dye obtained from the flower of Opuntia Ficus-Indica and apply on silk and cotton fabric using combination of mordants. The fastness properties of the flower of Opuntia Ficus-Indica... more

This paper explains to extract the eco-friendly natural dye obtained from the flower of Opuntia Ficus-Indica and apply on silk and cotton fabric using combination of mordants. The fastness properties of the flower of Opuntia Ficus-Indica dyed silk and cotton fabric have been studied using different combination (1:3, 1:1 and 3:1) of various mordants. The wash, rub, light and perspiration fastness of the dyed samples have been evaluated. It is found that flower of Opuntia Ficus-Indica dye can be successfully used for the dyeing of silk and cotton to obtain a wide range colours

Aqueous extract of natural dye, tea was dyed on the wool fabric with dark brown for 2% and 5% shade. The tea containing tannins as the main colorant species to produce different shade with different mordant salts. The mordant salts Alum,... more

Aqueous extract of natural dye, tea was dyed on the wool fabric with dark brown for 2% and 5% shade. The tea containing tannins as the main colorant species to produce different shade with different mordant salts. The mordant salts Alum, CuSO4, FeSO4, ZnSO4, Na2SO4, and MgSO4 were used to dye fabric using three different dyeing methods: pre-mordanting, meta-mordanting and post-mordanting. The color of the fabric was investigated on Data Color matching system in terms of K/S and CIE Lab-color difference values. The post-mordanting method gave the great depth of shade of natural dye tea with 2% and 5% shade, it also give good light fastness and wash fastness properties. Copper was found as a good mordant to achieve the best results with transition metal ions effect. Deep shades (K/S = 17.50) were obtained for original sample of 5% with color difference ΔE value is 0.17, as compare to 2% original sample of tea of light brown shades (K/S = 10.50) with color difference ΔE value is 0.50 under maintained temperature at 85 °C for 35 min of dyeing.

Foreword, Michael Herdick Introduction, Heather Hopkins and Katrin Kania 1. On the terminology of non-woven textile structures and techniques, and why it matters Ruth Gilbert 2. A new notation system for nålbinding stitches Harma Piening... more

Foreword, Michael Herdick Introduction, Heather Hopkins and Katrin Kania 1. On the terminology of non-woven textile structures and techniques, and why it matters Ruth Gilbert 2. A new notation system for nålbinding stitches Harma Piening 3. Lost weaving tablets: Identifying weaving tablets during excavation Heather Hopkins 4. Romans, intimately. New thoughts on reconstruction and purpose of use of Roman Empire and Late Antiquity ‘tanga briefs’ Julia B. Krug-Ochmann 5. Linen sprang from Lengberg Castle Beatrix Nutz 6. Early Byzantine embroidery techniques and an unusual tunic in the Römisch-Germanisches Zentralmuseum Mainz Petra Linscheid 7. Late Antique resist-dyeing technique Katrin Kania, Sabine Ringenberg, with contributions from Sabine Schrenk 8. The influence of metal kettle materials on the mordanting and dyeing outcome Katrin Kania, Heather Hopkins and Sabine Ringenberg 9. The supply of water to the dyeing workshops of Pompeii Heather Hopkins

This paper explores the mineral alum and its significance in Antiquity, thereby bridging the gap between the material and the written sources. As a mordant, it was essential in ancient dyeing industry. Considering the papyrological... more

This paper explores the mineral alum and its significance in Antiquity, thereby bridging the gap between the material and the written sources. As a mordant, it was essential in ancient dyeing industry. Considering the papyrological evidence, we also encounter alum as a valuable resource in the complex web of Roman organisation and administration.

The research is focused on finding a sustainable and efficient substitute for the dyeing of silk yarn and green Coconut shell came out as a solution. In India the coastal regions have an abundance of coconut tree, so a huge quantity of... more

The research is focused on finding a sustainable and efficient substitute for the dyeing of silk yarn and green Coconut shell came out as a solution. In India the coastal regions have an abundance of coconut tree, so a huge quantity of its by product is merely wasted in this country and this can be a good source for the provision of supply of raw materials required for the process. The coconut husk has been used previously to extract dye but this respective research is focused on extracting the dye when the Coconut shell is in raw form just after it is discarded after the consumption of Coconut water from it. The aqueous extract of green coconut-shell contains huge amount of polyphenolic materials which acts as coloring agents and are used to dye silk fabric as it has affinity towards protein fibres. The fabric was then treated by three different mordanting techniques. The dyed fabric samples were tested for color fastness to rubbing, washing, water and light and found satisfactory result. The samples were also tested for their color strength in color i7 Spectrophotometer.

ABSTRACT A vast array of colorants obtained from natural sources such as plants, insects/animals and microbes have been scrutinized in recent past for their use in different kinds of applications. Research into new natural dyes sources... more

ABSTRACT A vast array of colorants obtained from natural sources such as plants, insects/animals and microbes have been scrutinized in recent past for their use in different kinds of applications. Research into new natural dyes sources along with eco-friendly, robust and cost-effective technologies for their processing and application have greatly aided in widening the scope of natural dyes in various traditional and advanced application disciplines. This review encompasses a summary of research performed in last fifteen years (1998-2013) in different arenas of applications of natural dyes, with specific reference to technological development in natural textile dyeing and use of natural dyes in functional finishing of textiles, food coloration and dye sensitized solar cells. In addition, some newly discovered applications of natural dyes have also been discussed.

Presented by Aboli Vavle at ASUK 2019, 24-26th April 2019 The extent of the textiles industry at Pompeii is debated in current literature. Furthermore, the influence of the kettle, mordant, dyes, yarn thickness, cloth,... more

The present study was aimed to assess the anti-bacterial activity and dyeing property of the pigments obtained from five fungal species. Cotton fabric and leather samples were dyed with the purified pigments and their anti-bacterial... more

The present study was aimed to assess the anti-bacterial activity and dyeing property of the pigments obtained from five fungal species. Cotton fabric and leather samples were dyed with the purified pigments and their anti-bacterial activity was assayed under in-vitro conditions. Post-mordant cotton fabric and leather samples exhibited maximum bacterial reduction when compared with the pre-mordant and dyed samples. Pigment exhaustion, colour coordinates and fastness properties of the dyed cotton fabric and leather samples were also assessed. The toxicity of the pigments was evaluated by seed germination assay.

Non-European dyed materials other than textiles have received comparatively little systematic analysis, this is particularly true for objects made with dyed porcupine quills. This paper presents a comprehensive study of a group of... more

Non-European dyed materials other than textiles have received comparatively little systematic analysis, this is particularly true for objects made with dyed porcupine quills. This paper presents a comprehensive study of a group of Athapaskan porcupine quill specimens collected in 1862 which are held within the collections of National Museums Scotland, UK. Due to sampling limitations micro-destructive testing, or non-invasive analysis using PDA-UPLC, Raman Spectroscopy and PIXE were used to characterise the dye sources and metallic mordants. RBS was used to obtain additional information on the depth-profiling of the mordants in the keratin-based quill. The sensitivity of the quill specimens to photo-degradation was evaluated using Micro Fade Testing (MFT). The results from this multi-analytical study will be used to inform future display regimes of this unique collection.

Foreword, Michael Herdick Introduction, Heather Hopkins and Katrin Kania 1. On the terminology of non-woven textile structures and techniques, and why it matters Ruth Gilbert 2. A new notation system for nålbinding stitches Harma Piening... more

Foreword, Michael Herdick Introduction, Heather Hopkins and Katrin Kania 1. On the terminology of non-woven textile structures and techniques, and why it matters Ruth Gilbert 2. A new notation system for nålbinding stitches Harma Piening 3. Lost weaving tablets: Identifying weaving tablets during excavation Heather Hopkins 4. Romans, intimately. New thoughts on reconstruction and purpose of use of Roman Empire and Late Antiquity ‘tanga briefs’ Julia B. Krug-Ochmann 5. Linen sprang from Lengberg Castle Beatrix Nutz 6. Early Byzantine embroidery techniques and an unusual tunic in the Römisch-Germanisches Zentralmuseum Mainz Petra Linscheid 7. Late Antique resist-dyeing technique Katrin Kania, Sabine Ringenberg, with contributions from Sabine Schrenk 8. The influence of metal kettle materials on the mordanting and dyeing outcome Katrin Kania, Heather Hopkins and Sabine Ringenberg 9. The supply of water to the dyeing workshops of Pompeii Heather Hopkins

The aim of the article is to synthesize the main realities attested on the production and trade of alum in the Christian Spanish kingdoms between the late Middle Ages and early Modern period. These aspects are described mainly for old... more

The aim of the article is to synthesize the main realities attested on the production and trade of alum in the Christian Spanish kingdoms between the late Middle Ages and early Modern period. These aspects are described mainly for old crowns of Castile and Aragon thanks to three points : 1. The evolution of medieval Spanish news on alum which are available until the fifteenth century ; 2. The consequences in Spain from 1460 of the developments in international alum traffic, especially with the commercial penetration of alums produced in the Western Mediterranean (such as Tolfa or Mazarrón) ; 3. The observation of alum market in the city of Valencia during the passage from fifteenth to sixteenth centuries, as it may serve as a partial example of the circumstances occurred in other Spanish or European places.

The aim of the project was to investigate viability of natural dyes for Wool & Prince, a U.S. menswear company looking to add naturally dyed wool and wool/nylon blend textiles to their apparel offerings. In this abstract, we report the... more

The aim of the project was to investigate viability of natural dyes for Wool & Prince, a U.S. menswear company looking to add naturally dyed wool and wool/nylon blend textiles to their apparel offerings. In this abstract, we report the colorfastness of wool/nylon knit fabric to laundering results for: a) existing synthetically dyed samples; b) traditional pre-mordant and naturally dyed samples; and c) DLT combined mordant and dye samples. Dye color selection was based on the company’s color palette.

Despite toxicity concerns of chemical mordants used in natural dyeing, there is limited research on the measurement, quality, and safe disposal of the chemical mordant effluent. This study measured the aluminum ions across the... more

Despite toxicity concerns of chemical mordants used in natural dyeing, there is limited research on the measurement, quality, and safe disposal of the chemical mordant effluent. This study measured the aluminum ions across the premordanting process of cotton print cloth using inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry and calculated the oxidizable organic matter in the effluent through chemical oxygen demand (COD). The amount of aluminum absorbed by the cotton print cloth was low (2.31%-5.16%). The effluent COD was 23.91g COD/kg. Upon neutralization of the acidic condition, the aluminum in the effluent met discharge to freshwater regulations, and the COD met discharge to U.S. municipal sewage systems. However, the Global Harmonized System restricts aluminum acetate dibasic from organic certification due to its boric acid content. The high mordant concentration in the effluent supports the reuse of mordant baths but not direct disposal to the land or standing waters.

The use of natural dyes for textile dyeing purpose decreased to a large extent after the discovery of synthetic dyes in 1856. As a result with a distinct lowering in synthetic dyestuff costs, the natural dyes were virtually neglected at... more

The use of natural dyes for textile dyeing purpose decreased to a large extent after the discovery of synthetic dyes in 1856. As a result with a distinct lowering in synthetic dyestuff costs, the natural dyes were virtually neglected at the beginning of twentieth century presently there is an excessive use of synthetic dyes estimated at around 10,000,000.00 tons per annum, the production and application of which releases large amount of wastes and unfixed colorants to the environment thereby causing serious health hazards and disturbing the eco-balance of nature. Due to the current economic and environmental consciousness, research in this front should be titled towards the use of natural dyes for dyeing textile materials. This article gives an in depth review and analysis on the categories of textile materials suitable for dyeing with natural dyes, equipments for home and small scale commercial natural dyeing of textile, extraction and mordents used in dyeing textile with natural d...

The study envisages on the development of shades on woollen yarn with henna (Lawsonia inermis) as natural dye using alum and ferrous sulphate as mordants. Fifty four shades were developed by varying the amounts of mordants and dyes. The... more

The study envisages on the development of shades on woollen yarn with henna (Lawsonia inermis) as natural dye using alum and ferrous sulphate as mordants. Fifty four shades were developed by varying the amounts of mordants and dyes. The colour measurements and colour fastness properties with respect to light exposure, washing and rubbing (dry and wet) have been investigated. The hue of colour ranges from orange-brown to yellow. Deepest shades have been found with alum mordanted samples followed by ferrous sulphate and un-mordanted woollen yarn samples. The colour strength (K/S) has been found to be very good in dyed woollen yarn samples mordanted with alum.

The uptake of copper(II) onto wool from aqueous solutions of copper(II) sulfate is investigated as a function of treatment time and temperature, amount of copper applied, and pH. Longer heating times and higher temperatures lead to... more

The uptake of copper(II) onto wool from aqueous solutions of copper(II) sulfate is investigated as a function of treatment time and temperature, amount of copper applied, and pH. Longer heating times and higher temperatures lead to increased uptake: 1 hour near the boil gives optimal results. Increasing the amount of applied copper increases the total uptake, but the fraction of applied copper taken up decreases with the amount applied. As pH is increased, copper uptake increases linearly with pH up to a pH of approximately 6; above pH 6, solid copper salts are precipitated. The possibility of specific buffer interference with copper uptake is discussed.

ABSTRACT Wool samples collected from thirteen Arraiolos carpets from the 17th–19th century belonging to the National Museum of Ancient Art (NMAA, Lisboa, Portugal) collection were analysed to identify the natural dyes and mordants... more

ABSTRACT Wool samples collected from thirteen Arraiolos carpets from the 17th–19th century belonging to the National Museum of Ancient Art (NMAA, Lisboa, Portugal) collection were analysed to identify the natural dyes and mordants employed in the traditional dyeing process, in a way to complement and improve actual knowledge on this rugs. Natural dyes were extracted from Arraiolos historical wool fibres using a mild extraction method, followed by high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array and mass spectrometry detection (HPLC-DAD-MS) for compound identification. Colourimetry was used to measure colour parameters in all historical samples. Quantification of mordants in the historical fibres was carried out by inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry (ICP-MS). Weld, indigo, spurge flax, brazilwood, madder and cochineal were identified as dye sources in the fibres. Alum was the most commonly used mordant, but the presence of iron and zinc was also detected in some darker samples. The use of madder and cochineal is not referred in the available historical dyeing recipes. This study also proved that the actual visual perception of these carpets is strongly affected by the natural dyes photodegradation, which was mostly unaccounted for before.

ABSTRACT Wool samples collected from thirteen Arraiolos carpets from the 17th–19th century belonging to the National Museum of Ancient Art (NMAA, Lisboa, Portugal) collection were analysed to identify the natural dyes and mordants... more

ABSTRACT Wool samples collected from thirteen Arraiolos carpets from the 17th–19th century belonging to the National Museum of Ancient Art (NMAA, Lisboa, Portugal) collection were analysed to identify the natural dyes and mordants employed in the traditional dyeing process, in a way to complement and improve actual knowledge on this rugs. Natural dyes were extracted from Arraiolos historical wool fibres using a mild extraction method, followed by high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array and mass spectrometry detection (HPLC-DAD-MS) for compound identification. Colourimetry was used to measure colour parameters in all historical samples. Quantification of mordants in the historical fibres was carried out by inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry (ICP-MS). Weld, indigo, spurge flax, brazilwood, madder and cochineal were identified as dye sources in the fibres. Alum was the most commonly used mordant, but the presence of iron and zinc was also detected in some darker samples. The use of madder and cochineal is not referred in the available historical dyeing recipes. This study also proved that the actual visual perception of these carpets is strongly affected by the natural dyes photodegradation, which was mostly unaccounted for before.

When the imagination conjures up an image of an Egyptian mummy, it is normally one of a human body wrapped with undyed linen bandages. However, the reality was much more colourful, as shown by the set of red mummy shrouds and textile... more

When the imagination conjures up an image of an Egyptian mummy, it is normally one of a human body wrapped with undyed linen bandages. However, the reality was much more colourful, as shown by the set of red mummy shrouds and textile fragments from Pharaonic Egypt considered in this work. The textiles were subjected to scientific investigation with the main aim of shedding light on the sources of red colour and on the possible reasons for the different levels of colour fading. The red colourants were investigated using various non-invasive and micro-invasive approaches. The results pointed towards the presence of three sources of red colour, which, in increasing order of lightfastness, are safflower (Carthamus tinctorius), madder (Rubia spp.), and red ochre. Micro-morphological observations and elemental analyses also enabled some hypotheses to be formulated regarding the application of these colourants to the textiles. The results not only deepen our knowledge of dyeing technologie...

Non-European dyed materials other than textiles have received comparatively little systematic analysis, this is particularly true for objects made with dyed porcupine quills. This paper presents a comprehensive study of a group of... more

Non-European dyed materials other than textiles have received comparatively little systematic analysis, this is particularly true for objects made with dyed porcupine quills. This paper presents a comprehensive study of a group of Athapaskan porcupine quill specimens collected in 1862 which are held within the collections of National Museums Scotland, UK. Due to sampling limitations micro-destructive testing, or non-invasive analysis using PDA-UPLC, Raman Spectroscopy and PIXE were used to characterise the dye sources and metallic mordants. RBS was used to obtain additional information on the depth-profiling of the mordants in the keratin-based quill. The sensitivity of the quill specimens to photo-degradation was evaluated using Micro Fade Testing (MFT). The results from this multi-analytical study will be used to inform future display regimes of this unique collection.